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xcuse me but wtf is this?

Sandwich

Pig my fish!
Staff member
May 23, 2002
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borcester rhymes
so since my car decided to play "turbo vs. hose" and turbo won, I couldn't get out for a ride today...instead, I stripped my sunday.



but after I got done, I saw this:


that's odd, doesn't look like paint. In fact, if you look close, you can see that the area is machine brushed over, and you can see where it's smooth in this photo:


then I see this:

same as this:


So now I'm wondering...wtf is that crap? I used paint stripper...it's probably not sticker residue or anything like that. Is it some kind of metal filler? It's on both sides of the headtube...did they just fill in the low spots and then sand down over it?

I don't really care, the frame is fine structurally but I couldn't figure it out. I was able to remove some from the gusset but I think I'm going to need some emery cloth/sandpaper to really get rid of it.
 

eatmyshorts

Monkey
Jun 18, 2010
110
0
South OZ
Its pretty much standard in a lot of frames (in both alloy and carbon) to be finished with filler...

If you stripped a brand new car you would find the same...
 

Sandwich

Pig my fish!
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May 23, 2002
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Its pretty much standard in a lot of frames (in both alloy and carbon) to be finished with filler...

If you stripped a brand new car you would find the same...
word, I didn't know that.

Should I bother trying to remove it, or is it likely better to leave it on? I don't care if my frame is smooth...just safe to ride.
 

eatmyshorts

Monkey
Jun 18, 2010
110
0
South OZ
Its just cosmetic damage - caused by some point of the frame production..

Are you re painting or polishing?

Painting, just re bondo and sand (if you can feel it - you will see it)

If you are polishing you could lightly sand it out - dont sand away too much frame tho! :)

Worst case just put a sticker over it :D
 

roel_koel

Monkey
Mar 26, 2003
278
1
London,England
Its pretty much standard in a lot of frames (in both alloy and carbon) to be finished with filler...

it was standard practise on a lot of the Iron Horse frames - as they were made in a factory with poor QC and required some "finishing" ready for the paintshop

some seasons back, there were guys stripping their Sundays to paint, then popped up on the forums asking about "bondo?"

we sell anodised and raw / clear coat frames (both US made and TW made) and and it would be very obvious if "bondo" had been used, so I would say its more standard practise for factories with poor QC than "standard" practise throughout the industry ;)
 

Sandwich

Pig my fish!
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May 23, 2002
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Are you re painting or polishing?

Worst case just put a sticker over it :D
I was planning on repainting it, in which case I'll just leave it....but the rather nice feel and appearance of the stripped frame has me thinking "leave it"...plus it's cheap and lighter than repainting it, and it looks like this frame is staying with me for the duration, so no reason to care about what anybody else thinks.

it was standard practise on a lot of the Iron Horse frames - as they were made in a factory with poor QC and required some "finishing" ready for the paintshop
see, that's what has me confused. This is a World Cup frame, which I was under the impression was the same as the factory frame, which I was under the impression was welded/made in the US before being shipped out for assembly. If that's true, then it says something very wild about SAPA or Kinesis' production line.
 

Udi

RM Chief Ornithologist
Mar 14, 2005
4,918
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08/09 WC are not sapa/kinesis, but 07 is, so depends on year, if that helps.

Are you sure it's not just from a previous owner? Between friends, I've seen 5 sunday frames (both us/factory and taiwanese) stripped and anodized, and none of them have had spots that looked like that.

That said, ironhorse make absolute rubbish frames as this guy points out, so maybe we just got lucky. Also probably just a coincidence that they have such a low rate of breakage compared to some of the better finished brands out there. :)
it was standard practise on a lot of the Iron Horse frames - as they were made in a factory with poor QC
 

Sandwich

Pig my fish!
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May 23, 2002
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Is the 08 WC the same as factory, or vise versa, was the factory frame made in taiwan? This is an 08. Where were the 08s made, just for reference?

I don't think it's PO's fault. This was one of the brothers trumpore's bikes, and paint looked factory and fine. No indication that they had ever messed with ANYTHING, and from my understanding they're very good with their parts/bikes.

were the frames you saw bead blasted in any way? Mine was just rattle bombed with paint stripper. I imagine some very light sanding will remove this stuff, same thought process as media stripping.

Funny you mention the "poor" quality of the frames...this thing is stiff as hell and three seasons old with nary a dent on it. I'm a little disappointed to find out it was taiwan made (if true), but it's also pretty much the cheapest WC level frame you can buy...and after hearing the price on the Zerode, I'll be on it till it breaks.
 

Udi

RM Chief Ornithologist
Mar 14, 2005
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The 08 WC is a taiwanese frame, so not the same as factory.
That said, the disappointment is just your choice to make: in terms of build quality I couldn't really see any differences between them, and the weights were also almost identical. The only real benefit to the factory frame was if you got the black 08 one, because it was anodized from factory - if I had one to put on the wall that would be it.

And yeah - I'm the same deal as you, 3 seasons on the same frame, an overseas trip, plenty of crashes, gouged away a lot of the dropout/chainstay area from smashing it into rocks, 2 rounds of stripping and anodizing, and it still hasn't given up!
 

Sandwich

Pig my fish!
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May 23, 2002
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Ah, I just found it in the Sunday thread. Still 6069, but WC made in taiwan and Factory made in US....whatever.

Looks like it's time for some emery cloth. I'd really love to polish it, but man that's gonna be some work....
 

DHPeteinSC

Monkey
Nov 17, 2006
484
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In the KY (jelly) E-town
I've stripped a few Horses and pretty much all of them had some sort of blemishes in the frame. Looks like they sanded them with a brick before it went to PC. Just use some 220-320 wet or dry sand paper to get the frame smooth. If you have it PC'ed you wont see any of that.
 

Sandwich

Pig my fish!
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May 23, 2002
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speak man!
hang on...

whats that crap in your headtube?
the crap is paint, either overspray from the actual process, poor facing, or residue from the e13 failducer cups. I did a sh.tty job of stripping it, then ran out of stripper. I have to get another tube, then I can finish it. I expect that to go away.

His warranty.
I don't get it? The warranty is as gone as most of the paint on my frame.
 

Sandwich

Pig my fish!
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May 23, 2002
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I've stripped a few Horses and pretty much all of them had some sort of blemishes in the frame. Looks like they sanded them with a brick before it went to PC. Just use some 220-320 wet or dry sand paper to get the frame smooth. If you have it PC'ed you wont see any of that.
do you mean a literal brick? Did you sand the headtube bondo-gusset? What was underneath, anything besides aluminum? I'd like to remove it to get the bike uniform, but I don't want to see some kind of secret lair of fail beneath it.
 

Pegboy

Turbo Monkey
Jan 20, 2003
1,139
27
New Hamp-sha
Ok, I have the same frame and am going throught the same process. I have added a small shallow dent in my top tube and am wondering what they/I (can) use to fill it prior to PC. I've heard that bondo will crack during the PC process?

I've heard JB Weld before; is that my best choice?

Sandwich, I think we are on the same wave length. I looked new frames/bikes and I just can see anything that will bring me a significant upgrade, that would be worth the price. soooo, new 40, new PC, send shock back to Push for tune up and maybe new wheelset to try and drop weight, but that is low on the list. I did put a new set of bearings in it this spring and I can tell you it made a big difference.
 
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descente

Monkey
Jul 30, 2010
430
0
Sandy Eggo
i found a similar spot near where the down tube meets the bottom bracket on my 06 commencal supreme when i stripped it. i figured it was just a QC spot where they polished it to ensure it had reached the proper hardness during heat treating.

guess not hahahaha
 

Sandwich

Pig my fish!
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May 23, 2002
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Ok, I have the same frame and am going throught the same process. I have added a small shallow dent in my top tube and am wondering what they/I (can) use to fill it prior to PC. I've heard that bondo will crack during the PC process?

I've heard JB Weld before; is that my best choice?

Sandwich, I think we are on the same wave length. I looked new frames/bikes and I just can see anything that will bring me a significant upgrade, that would be worth the price. soooo, new 40, new PC, send shock back to Push for tune up and maybe new wheelset to try and drop weight, but that is low on the list. I did put a new set of bearings in it this spring and I can tell you it made a big difference.
Don't know on the "bondo options" but my "junk" is black...I don't know if that helps clarify what they used. It has a slight plastic sound to it, but it's not much different than the aluminum around it.

word on the update/upgrade. I need new headset bearings so I'm going to try slacker cups or the angleset. New frame bearings, and a push or avy tune. The only thing I don't really like about the frame is the shock rate, but supposedly a PUSH tune helps that out. Where are you getting it PCed? I'm still debating leaving it raw dawg but wouldn't mind throwing on some fresh paint.
 

klunky

Turbo Monkey
Oct 17, 2003
1,078
6
Scotland
Your frame is a taiwan built frame and not a factory.
Factory frames do not have the weld on the seattube that your frame does.
 

Sandwich

Pig my fish!
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May 23, 2002
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Your frame is a taiwan built frame and not a factory.
Factory frames do not have the weld on the seattube that your frame does.
i know...i could see that from the decals on it originally. The question was whether the WC was the same as the Factory, as suggested by page 1 of the sunday thread...but as Udi pointed out and SKC confirmed within the thread, the WC is comprised of the same tubez (6069) but welded in taiwan instead of the US....but I didn't know that about the seat tube weld, so thanks.
 

Pegboy

Turbo Monkey
Jan 20, 2003
1,139
27
New Hamp-sha
Don't know on the "bondo options" but my "junk" is black...I don't know if that helps clarify what they used. It has a slight plastic sound to it, but it's not much different than the aluminum around it.

word on the update/upgrade. I need new headset bearings so I'm going to try slacker cups or the angleset. New frame bearings, and a push or avy tune. The only thing I don't really like about the frame is the shock rate, but supposedly a PUSH tune helps that out. Where are you getting it PCed? I'm still debating leaving it raw dawg but wouldn't mind throwing on some fresh paint.
Yeah, I was also going with the angleset. The Push option makes the shock rate a non issue..I think you've read my view on that before. As far the PC, I think I am sending it out west, only because there is a specific color I think I want that I've seen from a western manufacturer.
 

Sandwich

Pig my fish!
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May 23, 2002
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borcester rhymes
Yeah, I was also going with the angleset. The Push option makes the shock rate a non issue..I think you've read my view on that before. As far the PC, I think I am sending it out west, only because there is a specific color I think I want that I've seen from a western manufacturer.
yeah, I read your review which makes me want it! I'd prefer the avy since it's competitively cheaper and I've loved his products in the past...but it's hard to argue with PUSH's history with the DHX. What color are you going with? Light urple?