So about Thursday... Can I ride it? I promise to only parking lot hump it, albeit vigorously.
Yeti ASR5 Carbon: Quite possibly the best bike evar!
- Thread starter mattmatt86
- Start date
We can all e-speculate about it.
1. 1.125" to 1.5" taper
2. Four lines running to the rear - Dropper Seatpost
3. Super thick fork uppers = Fox 36 => 6" travel front
4. Zero-stack HS to lower the front end (assuming fit?) re-confirms a lowered front end to accommodate the taller fork while maintaining angles, but giving room to slacken ~.5* by adding a traditional HS.
5. Left Shifter means minimum dual ring compatible.
6. Upwards bent downtube
Given Yeti's history of making bikes with 1" more travel in the rear than in the front, you can assume that this will be a 7" rear travel bike. At 7" it would be an ASR7 replacement. So let's look from that logic:
1. ASR7 is a 3 year old bike, which means time to update the model.
2. It has a 67* HA with a 6" fork, which is a touch steep for a 7" bike.
3. ASR7 has a relatively high stand-over height for a long travel bike
4. 13.8" BB
If you slacken the HA to 66*, then you can run 66* with a standard stack HS and 67* with a zero stack. With a 66* HA you will have a great slack "short" travel DH bike. Combine this with a ~.25" lower BB and a lower stand over, you will have an effective weapon between the 25th Anniversary 303DH and the 575 for varying race types.
The real question will be which linkage will it be running. Looking at the angle of the picture and how they limited the picture to just the upper part of the front-end, it is clear that the the middle-back of the bike needs to stay hidden.
If running a vertical rail like the 25th Anniversary 303DH, the the shock would likely mount 1-2" out of view on the down-tube. While this would seem counter to their focus on the Mac-Strut, at larger travel, they have always used a different suspension design than the all mountain (ex-ASX - short lived, and ASR7). To fit a 7", well pedaling mid-travel DH bike into the line-up to replace the ASR7 and allow for the removal of the 303RDH as well, would make the best financial sense too.
If they maintain the Mac-Strut to lower the stand-over, the shock will need to be pushed forward and down. Visually this would also be just out of view from the angle the picture is taken. It would allow for easy mounting of an e-type der (vs. vertical rail setup). The down-side would be amplification of
chain growth at full compression, which can have negative effects on ability to accelerate out of corners. This can be offset by a shock though, so it might be moot. I am somewhat at a loss for how they will maintain 7" of travel out of the Mac-Strut without lowering and forward mounting the shock, but the bent down-tube looks to either constrict that possibility or provide the lower mounting point. This is where I am torn...
My speculation:
7" travel
66* HA (adjustable via eccentric)
Vertical rail design
Fox DHX Air
12x142mm dropout
Standard BB width
13.75" BB
31" Stand over
8.5# frame
Direct mount e-type front Der.
Not sure what I weigh in gear, but I'm 162 most mornings. So with a light pack and gear probably close to 170 or 172. I do have a Pushed shock with a big hit bumper. At 180psi for a 175 lb rider I'd like to know how much sag you are getting. I wouldn't think much.A Slalom XC bike is how I described it to one of my buddies.
How much do you weigh? I'm about 175 in riding gear and I did my first ride at 165 and it felt like I was blowing through the travel so I up'd it to 180psi and it felt a lot more responsive. I'll probably keep experimenting, I haven't even touched the rebound knob
Cliffy, I'll get a BB measurement for you in a couple mins.
Dude, you are the king of e-speculations!
Holy f-ing crap. That's a hell of an analysis based off such a tiny photo! Impressive.
...Of course, I can't comment on whether any of your assessment is accurate.
You also need a hub conversion kit.
No complaints at all. I had a Reba on my last two trail bikes and loved it, so the move to the longer travel Revaltion was a no brainer. Plus I scored a great deal on the tapered carbon steerer/crown version which is super trick.
I know what you mean about visual cues. I think it's the really long seattube and high seatpost that make the bike not look like a Slalom bike, but that's also why I bought the bike. You could always get similar geometry numbers from slalom bikes (specailized SX, Blur 4x, Ndiza come to mind) but I couldn't get proper seatpost extension on any of those frame for real XC rides (34" inseam). Recently a lot of companies have taken note and used a lot of those great qualities of Slalom style frames and made frames with proper seat tube and top tube lengths to make them equally good for longer XC rides.
I owned a Ndiza for a while and it was one of the most fun bikes I've ever owned but I was never able to take it on long rides because of the short seat tube. If you like the Ndiza, you'll love this frame. Don't let the pic's fool you, this thing want to rail every turn and jump everything on the trail. I went for a short ride yesterday and I was literally looking for little roots to boost and using other roots as landing ramps. I know Yeti does quite a bit of demo days, I encourage everyone to take a spin on an ASR5 if you're looking for a "Downhiller's Trailbike."
Just tell us John that Yeti is unfortunately getting into the 29'er business and that this is the front triangle in the proto pic.Holy f-ing crap. That's a hell of an analysis based off such a tiny photo! Impressive.
...Of course, I can't comment on whether any of your assessment is accurate.
The world is ending now that Yeti is making a 29'er.
This may be too late, but I've owned a Heckler, a Blur 4X and now a Yeti 5C. Totally agree with you on the difference between the Heckler and 4X regarding square-edge hits. The Heckler hangs you up, the 4X pushes you forward. Now the 5C is single pivot but I don't notice any hanging up like the Heckler. The Yeti's suspension is stiff but compliant (whereas the Blur and Heckler are quite plush) and the pivot placement is alot different to the Heckler. Bottom line is the 5C is as good as the 4X on the downs, but 10X better on the ups for me. 4X maybe better in the air, but I'm getting better on the Yeti all the time. I bought it based on how good my mate's 575 is, and the 5's geometry (running a 150mm Rev). I've got a large 4X which is a little on the small side for trail riding (running a layback seatpost to compensate) and a large 5C which is perfect (I'm 6'1).
Also running 1x10 with a MRP 1X chain guide - chain only comes off sometimes if I pedal backwards, but that's no biggy.
Thanks, man! Really appreciate that.
Of course, it makes me want the Yeti even more now, dammit.
Of course, it makes me want the Yeti even more now, dammit.
Have you ridden with the fork any lower than 150mm? My Rev is fixed at 150 and I really enjoy the bike for descents and rough sections but on quick switchbacks I do notice the steering is a little slow and some longer climbs I really have to get over the front wheel. I was thinking about taking it down to 130mm but I'd like to hear some opinions before opening the fork up.
Mine has the revelation u turn on it and it feels best at 130 even on the downs.
Thanks Jeremy! One of the guys at Yeti said 130 is the sweet spot for the frame. I'll dig through my parts bin and find a 20mm spacer, grab a sixer and take the Revy apart.
No, I intended to drop it to 140mm but started with 150mm and haven't really had a problem. My experience with travel adjust forks is they're a kind of jack of all trades etc., so now I steer clear (soz). I'm obviously aware the bikes geometry should be better at 140mm, and I wasn't aware of the 130mm sweet spot. Part of my plans for this bike is to fit a new headset with a Zerostack bottom cup, my steerer is 1-1/8" so I think this should be do-able. Bearing in mind my existing Stepdown bottom cup is about 10mm (and I'm guessing thats what Yeti's geometry is roughly based on), then a 150mm fork with 4mm bottom stack height is not far off a 140mm fork with 10mm bottom stack height in terms of geometry? Also thinking of experimenting with a 70mm stem rather than the 50mm one fitted, as long as it dosen't adversely affect steering and ride position. BTW I'm more interested in the downs than the ups though in terms of bike set up.
What would it matter if there was "a lot of bob"?Nice build!
Do you have to use Propedal for climbing? If not is there a lot of bob? Have you done any comparison rides on similar bikes like Banshee Spitfire, Blur LT/TR, Ibis, Spot, etc.?
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mattmatt,
as someone who grew up in MD's DC suburbs and lived in Baltimore as an adult who rode MTBs, I'm wondering where you are riding that a FS bike is a good idea.
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Lot of bobbing and movement during climbing usually hurts climbing on XC/AM bikes.
http://dw-link.blogspot.com/2008/09/anti-squat-in-suspensions-has-become.html
Interesting wording...good idea. I'm going to interpret that as saying "there isn't anything in the area that really requires FS." This is true to some extent, I ride gunpowder, Loch Raven, Patapsco, Gambrills and a few other places. None of them "require" a FS bike, some can be navigated on a rigid SS, in fact I've ridden this area the last 2 years on a hardtail 29er. But the crazy thing is this bike is lighter than my 29er was and climbs just about as well, but the quick acceleration and handling characteristics make you look for new fun lines, even on flat flowy sections making it a lot more fun. Sure I might not be as efficient as a hardtail but I'm having way too much fun to care, so for me the bike's a great idea.
Interesting. I just naturally thought the DHers would automatically like the longer travel and more relaxed angles on the downs. That's good to know since I've added this to my short list.
Yeah with it set to 130, my bike still has a 67.5 head angle and a 12.9 inch BB with my 2.15 tires. Its still slack enough to rail, but it handles tight singletrack even better.
I have raced my asr 5 in a super D, two short course DH races, and an XC race already this year. Damn bike just does what it is told.
Sounds like I need to try a shorter fork. What length crank arm are you running?
175. I don't really get any pedal strikes either. I think that has to do with the suspension holding itself up in the travel so well. This bike does not squat hardly any from body weight, and on my other bikes that is normally when I would slam the cranks in the ground.
Thanks for the answer/review!
I saw you were running a Black Flag wheelset. How are they holding up? Kinda torned between the Black Flags and Chargers. I can have a good deal on both so I really don't know. They will be used for 4x/bmx track racing + a bit of trail riding.
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They are holding up great! I've ridden 5 times so far, including some rocky trail sections and a few mini hucks, I just spun them in the truing stand a minute ago and they are as true as when I pulled them out of the box. I was debating between the black flags and Chargers as well, but QBP only had the white chargers in stock and I wasn't crazy about white wheels. I don't think you could go wrong with either, I'm pretty sure the hubs and spokes are identical and the chargers have a larger/wider rims. I'm running 2.1 tires so the narrower rim is fine but if you plan to run wider tires it might be better to get the chargers.
Thanks, yet another reason why this bike is so sorted!
I love mine.
I changed the stem from 110 to 100mm, took the big ring off and am running a bash guard, am running a dropper post, and changed the wheels to some king/819's I had around. I am going to swap out the new version LX's that came with it for a set of dialed in old school Saint's I have here.
Love this bike. Its so much fun here in AZ.
I changed the stem from 110 to 100mm, took the big ring off and am running a bash guard, am running a dropper post, and changed the wheels to some king/819's I had around. I am going to swap out the new version LX's that came with it for a set of dialed in old school Saint's I have here.
Love this bike. Its so much fun here in AZ.
Holy f-ing crap. That's a hell of an analysis based off such a tiny photo! Impressive.
...Of course, I can't comment on whether any of your assessment is accurate.
*edit* Does the pic work? http://yfrog.com/gyewwjhj
Just picked this off of MTBR.
My updated analysis taking information from the new picture leads me to believe my analysis on rail vs. Mac Strut is now wrong. I do still think that the rest of my assessment is correct.
Note the lack of pivot and shock mount on the top tube and down-tube (though possibly hidden by hand). The lack of TT pivot eliminates the MacStrut as the top pivot is a necessity. Note the large lower pivot - This also eliminates the vertical rail design as an option. It opens up the possibility of a horizontal rail, but comparing this to the 303RDH, I do not see how the horizontal rail would mount.
Another point of note is that there is no way that you can mount a front derailleur to the frame as-is. This means that we can expect to see an e-type, frame mount front derailuer on the swing arm of the suspension. The BB area is also extremely overbuilt, which makes me assume that there will be extremely high leverage onto that single point of the frame.
I have no idea what type of suspension other than a single pivot works off of that type of frame mount though. My new e-speculation is some form of a link driven suspension that allows them to reduce the leverage ratio (as the MacStrut has a relatively high ratio). Still baffled for the shock mounting point though... I don't see how you can drive the shock without a front shock mount. It must not be welded onto the frame yet.
I agree with the source of the photo on this:
Can I also note the Coors can (see awesome place to work) and the mounting of a front triangle from an old DH4/6 like a buck's head mounted to the wall.g1701gst of MTBR said:
I doubt it's a DW-link or clone.Did you guess "mobile eccentric main pivot?"
I did not think so.
*edit* You've been hanging out on Facebook haven't you?
Don't doubt it, scout it!
Hopefully they make it feel better than the Ibis DW-link. I find that to be the most miserable feeling suspension on earth. Either WAY too stiff or WAY too soft.Don't doubt it, scout it!
I have one on back-order (XL) and can't wait to ride it. I have a very good feeling about this bike. Any idea when you'll be getting them in John?
Did you get the aluminum? I didn't think the Carbon came in XL. Either way you'll love the bike.
I'm dropping the fork to 130mm this week to speed up the steering on flat sections. All the parts for the 12mm conversion should be in this week as well, can't wait to ride it after the changes.
Their ETA was two weeks about a week and 1/2 ago, for the Carbon XL's.
Correct me if I'm wrong but I believe they come complete w/ a 142x12, which is awesome!
I will be changing the travel to 130 as well since this seems appropriate. Might add a lil oil to the air spring chamber to give it a bit more compression as well as oiling the foam ring, greasing the heck out of the seals and lubing the stanchions with silicone spray. Getting a KS post, chainguide around a 34t chainring and a 60mm stem. Giggity Goo!!
I think all the 2011's come with the 142, I had to order all the necessary accoutrements to make mine work but I'm excited for the added stiffness. I've noticed some creaking from the pivots and shock mount on longer pedal mashing climbs. I removed and lubed all the nuts and bolts and it quieted it down a bit but I think the thru axle will help to keep everything stiff and put moar powar to the ground!
The 142x12 axle is one of many reasons I was attracted to this bike. Moar power indeed! Just got my KS i900 in today and getting more and more excited for this bike to come together.
Got mine pretty dialed in now. I got a complete with the 10spd XT build. Added wider bars and a Command Post. Couldn't be any happier with how it rides. Sucker just straight charges uphill and then back down!
I have been on a Spitty for about a month now. There is no need to keep it in the steep setting. You will learn how to avoid the pedal strikes and the steeper HT already gets you "over the front" enough to keep the front end down on steep climbs. And I'm running it with a Fox 36.
LOL... and I'm SO glad I got a Medium. Despite being the same height (or within an inch) of HAB's height.
Was that Stoney that they were talking about in that clip (finding the hoodie)
Sorry mark... had to do it.
Bike looks awesome Mike! What travel did you go with for the fork?