Fun fact: Knipex, Hazet and Spokey are all made within a few miles of each other. We might need a full RM toolbox.Full ack! These are one of the best allround tools available.
Fun fact: Knipex, Hazet and Spokey are all made within a few miles of each other. We might need a full RM toolbox.Full ack! These are one of the best allround tools available.
full RM toolbox followed by full RM factory tourFun fact: Knipex, Hazet and Spokey are all made within a few miles of each other. We might need a full RM toolbox.
That was me- I’m glad you like the bushing tool!Never bought a pre-built wheel, can't see why I ever would. I have a friend who builds awesome wheels for me for spare parts or beer. I'd be down for an RM Spokey if it happened.
My favorite tool is my shock bushing tool that @4130biker (I think? It's been a while, sorry) made for me for RMSS.
Felco cable cutters are awesome as are Knipex cable tie cutters (so unnecessary, but so worth it).
Lezyne Dirt Drive floor pump has set up every tubeless tire I've ever mounted without a fuss. No need for a compressor.
I resisted buying master link pliers for a long time, but they sure are handy. Those are Park, because I bought them from a bike shop, which is petty much the only reason to ever buy Park. I also have a Park big blue toolbox that was a gift and is fucking sweet.
Oh, and I'm with @jonKranked on beer. Fuck the corporate overlords.
i've always used the Park spoke wrenches and have several, but upon this little gem of knowledge, i will promptly get a Spokey and ditch the old doodads...Good to hear that you like it, my dad designed the Spokey over 30 years ago and we are still making them. If this site still had enough members I'd be totally down with producing a RM edition Spokey, but I doubt we could get enough people together for this to be feasible.
only times i didn't build my own wheels are the few times i've had friends give me an old wheel already built...I’ve never found any good reason to buy a “system” wheel.
trademark green bike toolsfull RM toolbox followed by full RM factory tour
I bought these recently for my Lyrik rebuild and they're pretty solid:What retaining ring pliers do you use? I have a cheap no name set that can be a bit frustrating and a knipex on which I bend the tip first time I used it...
One that work for Guide levers would be nice too.
Spokeys are SO much better than the Park ones.i've always used the Park spoke wrenches and have several, but upon this little gem of knowledge, i will promptly get a Spokey and ditch the old doodads...
To true wheels?Im just using small channel locks, is this wrong?
To diffuse a hand grenade, one simply pulls the pin and releases the handle...Was talking more about unlocking quick links. I am fully aware that channel locks for wheel true is using the wrong sized hammer to diffuse a hand grenade.
Servicing suspension in a commercial setting. Hoses blow all the time and leave behind perfectly serviceable gauges, bodies and so on. Sucks to throw those away because no one sells replacement parts.I'd question what your doing with it if you're trashing those on a regular basis?
Count me in! When shall I start throwing money on your direction?Good to hear that you like it, my dad designed the Spokey over 30 years ago and we are still making them. If this site still had enough members I'd be totally down with producing a RM edition Spokey, but I doubt we could get enough people together for this to be feasible.
This. Although there are at least three different versions of the RS pump. I've found the one with the removable pressure gauge (a rebranded Giyo) to be the least reliable.Usually just stick to the rockshox one at work, switching to their digital one when I want to be a bit more anal about exactly what pressure I'm putting in
If it helps, I have an old Stratos shock pump that is pretty terrible.Out of interest, can anyone on this thread recommend a shock pump that doesn't suck? If you could suggest one that not only doesn't suck but also has easily sourced replacement hoses / fittings you'd basically be a god in my eyes.
Yeah, I'm not against machine built wheels. Modern machines stress relieve and can do very well. I'm just against the dip-shit stuff like 8-spoke shimano wheels, the paired dumbass spoke crack-brothers cobalt wheels, radial lacing, reverse spokes, aluminum spokes, and so on. All that shit can burn in hell. There is no good reason for it. A good 3x will be a better wheel every damn time.My latest bike came with a DT350/Stan's Flow combo, I made it a little more round/true, and haven't touched it in a year of a LOT of riding.
Impressed, actually. One of the side benefits of the wider rim rage is that they are getting stronger, too.
I've got a Topeak one with their version of a zero-loss fitting that has been pretty good. They're not rebuildable AFAIK though, and they're not unkillable if you lend it to dopey fuckers that leave it connected and give their shock a bounce test....Out of interest, can anyone on this thread recommend a shock pump that doesn't suck? If you could suggest one that not only doesn't suck but also has easily sourced replacement hoses / fittings you'd basically be a god in my eyes.
3x ?? who uses that? My stuff is 2x and it lives up too my riding style with my wagon wheels.Yeah, I'm not against machine built wheels. Modern machines stress relieve and can do very well. I'm just against the dip-shit stuff like 8-spoke shimano wheels, the paired dumbass spoke crack-brothers cobalt wheels, radial lacing, reverse spokes, aluminum spokes, and so on. All that shit can burn in hell. There is no good reason for it. A good 3x will be a better wheel every damn time.
All the shock pumps I own blow and none of them sucks.Out of interest, can anyone on this thread recommend a shock pump that doesn't suck? If you could suggest one that not only doesn't suck but also has easily sourced replacement hoses / fittings you'd basically be a god in my eyes.
People who want stiff strong wheels?3x ?? who uses that? My stuff is 2x and it lives up too my riding style with my wagon wheels.
The technical paper on the Nox site has these relevant figures. You gain a little lateral stiffness and lose a lot of tangential (torsional or braking) stiffness.
Not super essential, but it means you can check the pressure that was in the shock more accurately by pressurizing the hose a bit before you open the shock valve. It lets you check if a shock is slowly losing air pressure, otherwise everytime you connect a pump you lose a percentage of the reservoir pressure just pressuring back to the gauge. Normal shock pumps work fine for inflation purposes, but I've had air shocks and forks where a few psi made a noticeable difference so it can be handy to be able to check that loss consistently.What does everyone think that zero-loss fittings are doing when there's a spring-loaded valve on the shock/fork?
What ever you do, do not get the Shimano/Pro one.Out of interest, can anyone on this thread recommend a shock pump that doesn't suck? If you could suggest one that not only doesn't suck but also has easily sourced replacement hoses / fittings you'd basically be a god in my eyes.
Dude did you forget? Green™ is Blue™according to Park™.trademark green bike tools
With the one that came with my 2006 36 one can carefully attach the hose but just screw it on so much that the shock or fork Schrader valve core stays closed. Then prepressurize the pump to the estimated pressure and fully attach the hose. Air losses are minimal that way. Works only for personal gear of course, where you have a slight idea about the pressure numbers.Not super essential, but it means you can check the pressure that was in the shock more accurately by pressurizing the hose a bit before you open the shock valve. It lets you check if a shock is slowly losing air pressure, otherwise everytime you connect a pump you lose a percentage of the reservoir pressure just pressuring back to the gauge. Normal shock pumps work fine for inflation purposes, but I've had air shocks and forks where a few psi made a noticeable difference so it can be handy to be able to check that loss consistently.
We've never gotten less than 1000 pieces printed and you need a certain quantity to spread the tooling cost across a large enough number. I also have no way to get them to monkeys as my company is only set up to deal with wholesalers and distributors, so they would be quite expensive if i sent them out individually. It would be ideal if we could find a monkey on the other side of the pond who can do pad printing and is willing to distribute them.Count me in! When shall I start throwing money on your direction?
What does everyone think that zero-loss fittings are doing when there's a spring-loaded valve on the shock/fork?
People who want stiff strong wheels?
Ripped from mtbr:
Do they do a lot of road wheels? 3x gets weird for lower spoke counts, because the distance between spoke holes increases, and the spokes have to go so far over that they don't always sit well against the flange. I'd do 2x for anything 28 hole or less, but 3x for MTB wheels with proper spoke counts (32).Interesting , the 3 sources I deal with who make a living building and selling wheels around the world all use 2x.