Their carbon model states that it has an integrated headset in the carbon head tube. Why? Any long-term issue? I never liked this idea. It seems worse than a press fit BB, so I always steered clear ( 
) of them.
) of them.YT Tues integrated head tube
- Thread starter Electric_City
- Start date
My old Transition DH bike had an integrated headset, the bearings sat right on the frame. Its the only bike I've had that constantly had to have its headset tightened.
I personally would avoid it.
Though my girlfriend's aluminum Santa Cruz has an integrated bearing (I forget which one...) and its been fine. So....
I personally would avoid it.
Though my girlfriend's aluminum Santa Cruz has an integrated bearing (I forget which one...) and its been fine. So....
Integrated headsets are fine if done well. I have experience with two Santa Cruz CC frames, the headsets were both trouble free - but I also used them with a headlock so YMMV.
There's no reason why they should loosen more than standard headsets, I assume the problem was elsewhere.
There's no reason why they should loosen more than standard headsets, I assume the problem was elsewhere.
You mean you never had those old sunline headsets that required modifications out of the box to not be idiotically loose?My old Transition DH bike had an integrated headset, the bearings sat right on the frame. Its the only bike I've had that constantly had to have its headset tightened.
I personally would avoid it.
Though my girlfriend's aluminum Santa Cruz has an integrated bearing (I forget which one...) and its been fine. So....
integrated headset configurations are a cost-saving measure on behalf of manufacturers. Rather than pressing a bearing cup into the frame, the bearing can simply be dropped in during assembly. More bikes can be assembled for less labor and hence save money.
Never had a headset issue on my Capra in the 5 years I've been riding it. No headlock required.
TBF if a headlock is required in order to combat headset continually coming loose it's generally Dow to your stem or top crown not doing its job properly rather than an issue with the headset.
TBF if a headlock is required in order to combat headset continually coming loose it's generally Dow to your stem or top crown not doing its job properly rather than an issue with the headset.
Chris King was super against them when they came out cuz he said frame makers wouldn't keep the tolerances tight enough so the bearing wouldn't rest evenly on the seat and bearings would wear out prematurely. Maybe I've always had ones that were made well but I never had a problem and I can't recall a customer bringing a bike in due to problems with an IS headset. Honestly, it seems like it removes one more potential for creaks (interface between cup & headtube). Chris King now makes headsets for them. Just assimilate and bow down to your Lizard overloads already.
Hey BuckoW, why doesn't Scott do this? It saves some weight.
Hey BuckoW, why doesn't Scott do this? It saves some weight.
Last edited:
Yes, the Spark has that uses Acros one with the .6* plastic ring between the bearing and the frame.
This the same company that thought an o-ring would keep a headset tight.
Yeah, I've never owned a Chris King product. However, he's a really nice guy and makes a helluva short stack of pancakes. His refusal to pay to use the split ring patent has some ideological validity* but the o-ring and "close tolerances" system just didn't work out. Since the split ring patent expired there's an ongoing divide in our shop between allegiance to his headset or the CC110, but it's kinda silly cuz they're both expensive and work perfectly.
*If you guys don't know the story I'll tell it.
Whoops, yeah my 2017 Spark RcSL has that and I forgot. I'm typing this from Honfleur, rather than my living room surrounded by Scotts. It must have been so trouble free for 5 1/2 seasons that it slipped my mind. I just remember that my Ransom has normal cups.
Last edited:
You know, it's not that...that would be just whatever it is if it was just that. It's that they went out of their way to BLAME the users of their product for the defect and denied the obvious issue. They said over and over that it was "installation error". Then at the end of the day, they use a split ring and had the gall to "charge" people to "upgrade". There were a few similar occurrences with some hub issues, but none to this level.
Getting off topic, but I've killed lots of Cane Creak headsets and bottom brackets (including 110) from washing but my Chris King headset and BB have been resisting my abuse for the last year and a half. The split ring seems to really help seal water & soap out.
CC40, then change the lower bearing to CC110 when the original shits the bed.
With integrated headsets, the bearing + crown race are all you get from CC.
Haha, yeah, my mechanic tells everyone "You wash your bike too much!" I try to do it as little as possible but any time after a rain I have to rinse it off to get the sandy grit away from pivots & drivetrain or else it does more damage than just crunchy bearings.
Interesting. The mechanics I work with and I almost refuse to work on a dirty bike. For most work that comes into the shop the first step is to have a minion give it a bath*. For some of the "my drivetrain is making bad sounds" or "my brakes are rubbing or squealing and weak" jobs the bath accomplishes 90% of the fix.
*We preach the extremely low pressure spray wash and immediately drying it in the sun. In CO it's not hard to get every crevice completely dry in 15 minutes.
I think it's cause he grew up very poor and hates to see people waste money on replacing bearings just because they want their mountain bike sparkly clean after every ride. And a lot of the "my bike is creaking" is because the bearings are rusty / washed out.
Instead of "don't wash your bike" he should say "use very low pressure and get it dry right away".
I know some people that wash bikes (like full soap and water) any time they're even dusty. That shit has to do more harm than good. I'm pretty badly at the other end of the spectrum - basically only cleaning functional shit and leaving mud on rims and frames unless its really bad. Pretty sure some middle ground here is sensible.
I just hose with light water pressure, and then use a rag and windex to get everything in the crevasses sparkly. But generally only after a lot of mud.