Quantcast

VAG Owners

canadmos

Cake Tease
May 29, 2011
21,647
21,069
Canaderp
Haha. Sorry, holmes, I guess you hit a nerve by defending the corporate stealership
If I did, then I did not intend to and that is totally my fault. I am in no way on the stealerships side. :busted:


Speaking of which, I ordered a part from the local VW dealer and got no confirmation email or anything about it. I call them after two weeks and ask them if its there (what are they, hiring bike shop people?) and the guy couldn't find my order in the system. But the part is sitting there waiting to be picked up. :rofl:

Then I go to pick it up, walk in just after 5, but didn't realize the parts people leave at 5 promptly. I walk back to the counter, no one stops me to ask whats up - so I'm standing there and this dude comes out of the back and wouldn't even hand me the part, as he was trying to shut his computer off. Come on man. :rolleyes:
 

canadmos

Cake Tease
May 29, 2011
21,647
21,069
Canaderp
In the ongoing VAG saga, I got a wiper puller but its been too cold to be dickin' around with that stuff.

I cleaned the very dirty sealing surfaces on the sunroof glass and the roof. It has rained twice since then and no interior leakage.

I even found some water pooling on the glass, so its obviously not getting in very fast now.


I also dumped water down the front drains. The passenger one seems to be flowing freely, but the driver side one drains a little slower. I'll eventually pull the wiper and milk that drain nipple.

Going to grab a multimeter tonight and start testing the wires in the back hatch. It'll be a good learning experience and maybe even help avoid having to find a replacement lever/lock/camera.
 

SkaredShtles

Michael Bolton
Sep 21, 2003
67,191
13,775
In a van.... down by the river
Engineer #1: We should cut a really big fuckin' hole in the top of the car and put a sliding window there.
Engineer #2: Why in the FUCK would we do that?
Engineer #1: It'll obviously let lots of sun in, cooking the inside of the car in the summer. And when it rains, the chances of it leaking into the car are quite high. And invariably the mechanism will shit the bed, and it'll happen at the most inopportune time - like during a massive thunderstorm
Engineer #2: I'm sold. Let's do it!!
 

6thElement

Schrodinger's Immigrant
Jul 29, 2008
16,792
14,251
Engineer #1: We should cut a really big fuckin' hole in the top of the car and put a sliding window there.
Engineer #2: Why in the FUCK would we do that?
Engineer #1: It'll obviously let lots of sun in, cooking the inside of the car in the summer. And when it rains, the chances of it leaking into the car are quite high. And invariably the mechanism will shit the bed, and it'll happen at the most inopportune time - like during a massive thunderstorm
Engineer #2: I'm sold. Let's do it!!
Hate sunroofs, I'd rather have the extra 2" of headroom and not cook my head in the summer if I open the blind.
 

canadmos

Cake Tease
May 29, 2011
21,647
21,069
Canaderp
Engineer #1: We should cut a really big fuckin' hole in the top of the car and put a sliding window there.
Engineer #2: Why in the FUCK would we do that?
Engineer #1: It'll obviously let lots of sun in, cooking the inside of the car in the summer. And when it rains, the chances of it leaking into the car are quite high. And invariably the mechanism will shit the bed, and it'll happen at the most inopportune time - like during a massive thunderstorm
Engineer #2: I'm sold. Let's do it!!
I think you forgot to include some weird and overly complicated German engineering in there.

The sun roofs on my Mazda and Subaru never leaked. Though neither of which had a gutter where all the water can get trapped, the window itself pushed up and sealed on the body of the car.
 

canadmos

Cake Tease
May 29, 2011
21,647
21,069
Canaderp
I learned a few things today;

1) I should find a proper set of backprobe connectors, because without them testing anything is a pain. Needle pins only work so good.

2) the car alarm will go off when you plug the liftgate wiring back in, but not when it's unplugged.

3) wiring is complicated.

But alas, I think I somewhat tested that power is going to the handle and motor, as it should. There seems to be continuity from the start of the wiring at the top of the hatch, down to the ends of the connectors.

Testing the wiring that goes from the headliner, through the rubber grommet and into the liftgate will be tougher, because of course there are no connectors in the headliner. How do you test continuity there? The I pulled the wires out of the grommet as much as I could and they all look OK. It doesn't help that all the wires in the head liner are also white...wtf?

BUT

As the sun is now setting, I decided to just hail Mary it, plugged everything in (I've had the motor/handle unplugged since this started) and low and behold......it's all fuckin working. I also left all the interior trim off for like 2 weeks. Maybe it was moisture related from the broken end of the drain tube, that connects to the camera (which I've replace)?



:confused:

I'll probably leave the trim off for another week. I feel like if I put it all back on tomorrow, it'll stop working the moment I do.
 
Last edited:

Toshi

butthole powerwashing evangelist
Oct 23, 2001
39,326
8,419
congratulations on the inadvertent exorcism of the electrical gremlin
 

Westy

the teste
Nov 22, 2002
55,654
21,662
Sleazattle
Engineer #1: We should cut a really big fuckin' hole in the top of the car and put a sliding window there.
Engineer #2: Why in the FUCK would we do that?
Engineer #1: It'll obviously let lots of sun in, cooking the inside of the car in the summer. And when it rains, the chances of it leaking into the car are quite high. And invariably the mechanism will shit the bed, and it'll happen at the most inopportune time - like during a massive thunderstorm
Engineer #2: I'm sold. Let's do it!!

Don't blame engineers for stupid features that idiot consumers "need". A lot of people buy cars primarily on having dumb feature like sunroofs, electric windows, motorized doors and 6' beds. Then get mad when their engine needs to get pulled to replace a timing belt. People can't open a fucking door then complain that "cars aren't designed for me to work on anymore".
 

HardtailHack

used an iron once
Jan 20, 2009
7,392
6,679
I learned a few things today;

1) I should find a proper set of backprobe connectors, because without them testing anything is a pain. Needle pins only work so good.

2) the car alarm will go off when you plug the liftgate wiring back in, but not when it's unplugged.

3) wiring is complicated.

But alas, I think I somewhat tested that power is going to the handle and motor, as it should. There seems to be continuity from the start of the wiring at the top of the hatch, down to the ends of the connectors.

Testing the wiring that goes from the headliner, through the rubber grommet and into the liftgate will be tougher, because of course there are no connectors in the headliner. How do you test continuity there? The I pulled the wires out of the grommet as much as I could and they all look OK. It doesn't help that all the wires in the head liner are also white...wtf?

BUT

As the sun is now setting, I decided to just hail Mary it, plugged everything in (I've had the motor/handle unplugged since this started) and low and behold......it's all fuckin working. I also left all the interior trim off for like 2 weeks. Maybe it was moisture related from the broken end of the drain tube, that connects to the camera (which I've replace)?



:confused:

I'll probably leave the trim off for another week. I feel like if I put it all back on tomorrow, it'll stop working the moment I do.
I had cheap back probes, they were no fun, I have Fluke and Silvertronic now, they are both good.
1714264200637.png

I like having the extra colors with the Silvertronic as my memory sucks, it's easier to remember which one I just tested for the fifth time.
 

Westy

the teste
Nov 22, 2002
55,654
21,662
Sleazattle
I'm okay with this gremlin outcome, if it means I don't need to find a $700 trunk handle.
Being in the Canucklestani Kingdom Of Corrosion it could have just been a oxidated connector (or loose pin). After turning it off and back on again, unplugging and plugging it back in again is the second most successful troubleshooting method.

Older generation Golfs had a known issue with a microswitch in the handle. Either that was resolved or it normally takes a long time for it to appear.
 

stevew

resident influencer
Sep 21, 2001
40,995
9,935
The sun roofs on my Mazda and Subaru never leaked.
the lady who i worked for in colorado taking care of her show dogs...the glass sunroof in her subaru outback did not leak...it just exploded on a hot day in the summer...
 

Pneuma

Chimp
Nov 5, 2021
72
49
Being in the Canucklestani Kingdom Of Corrosion it could have just been a oxidated connector (or loose pin).
This is likely the problem. I would add some dielectric grease to your connectors. If you get a little tub, you can just dip the tip of the whole connector into it.
 

MikeD

Leader and Demogogue of the Ridemonkey Satinists
Oct 26, 2001
11,735
1,819
chez moi
This is likely the problem. I would add some dielectric grease to your connectors. If you get a little tub, you can just dip the tip of the whole connector into it.
Best I understand that now, dielectric grease isn't conductive and you shouldn't introduce it between the male and female terminals...goes on the exterior of the completed terminal connection.
 

Pneuma

Chimp
Nov 5, 2021
72
49
Best I understand that now, dielectric grease isn't conductive and you shouldn't introduce it between the male and female terminals...goes on the exterior of the completed terminal connection.
That is correct that it isn’t conductive but that isn’t its purpose; it’s there to reduce corrosion. Weatherpak connectors often come preloaded with dielectric grease. :-)
 

canadmos

Cake Tease
May 29, 2011
21,647
21,069
Canaderp
depending on how much you care about it, shave some insulation off the wire for tests and cover it with liquid electric tape when done.
It's working now, so my level of caring is at about 1/10.

If it happens again, we'll see.

So glad my VAG is cooperating now. And it's no longer cold out, so dicking around can commence.
 

canadmos

Cake Tease
May 29, 2011
21,647
21,069
Canaderp
Guess what decided to randomly not work, when I pulled up to the trail head today.

And it worked this morning when I loaded the car....
 

Toshi

butthole powerwashing evangelist
Oct 23, 2001
39,326
8,419
did you wear it out from playing with it too vigorously
 

boostindoubles

Nacho Libre
Mar 16, 2004
8,204
6,592
Yakistan
Guess what decided to randomly not work, when I pulled up to the trail head today.

And it worked this morning when I loaded the car....
Unpredictable function, randomly gives you hell minutes after being totally fine...

Your VAG checks out, sounds like it's operating normally.
 

MikeD

Leader and Demogogue of the Ridemonkey Satinists
Oct 26, 2001
11,735
1,819
chez moi
depending on how much you care about it, shave some insulation off the wire for tests and cover it with liquid electric tape when done.
Careful shaving your VAG...however useful and desirable the endstate may be, you don't want to nick something irreplaceable...though experimentation within reason is certainly encouraged practice.
 

canadmos

Cake Tease
May 29, 2011
21,647
21,069
Canaderp
I plugged the connections back in at the top of the hatch last night, before driving around and its been working ever since. Again.

:crazy:

As I've tested all wires for continuity in the hatch previously and found no issue, perhaps the problem is in the loop of wires that are in the hinge of the door. I'm just afraid to mess with that too much, as the rubber boots that seal the roof and hatch from water, seem super fragile and would be an absolute nightmare to swap if one breaks.
 

Westy

the teste
Nov 22, 2002
55,654
21,662
Sleazattle
I plugged the connections back in at the top of the hatch last night, before driving around and its been working ever since. Again.

:crazy:

As I've tested all wires for continuity in the hatch previously and found no issue, perhaps the problem is in the loop of wires that are in the hinge of the door. I'm just afraid to mess with that too much, as the rubber boots that seal the roof and hatch from water, seem super fragile and would be an absolute nightmare to swap if one breaks.
Corrosion issue?

FOTU 571 Electrical Contact Grease,Conductive Grease Electrical Connections, Prevent Wiring and Other Electrical Connections Against Salt, Dirt, and Corrosion (1-Pack, 3.5 Oz) https://a.co/d/02WZlxN7
 

vinny4130

Monkey
Jun 11, 2007
457
217
albuquerque
A few years ago after owning Hondas Toyotas and Subarus for years, I decided to buy a manual diesel Jetta something I have wanted for a long time. After having it about two months it fail to start taking it to lunch one day, no power at all completely dead, left it went back the following day started as if nothing happened. Drove it for 6 months more it didn't fail to start again. Guy I bought it from wondered if I wanted to sell it back, done deal. I had the only water cooled vw I ever wanted and I only needed it for 8 months. The interior rattled more than any car I ever owned with half the age and mileage. Sorting out electrical on a VW, hats off to you sir!
 

canadmos

Cake Tease
May 29, 2011
21,647
21,069
Canaderp
Corrosion issue?

FOTU 571 Electrical Contact Grease,Conductive Grease Electrical Connections, Prevent Wiring and Other Electrical Connections Against Salt, Dirt, and Corrosion (1-Pack, 3.5 Oz) https://a.co/d/02WZlxN7
Maybe.. but all the connections look clean, with no visible corrosion. There's also no evidence of water or event any dust in/on the wires.
 

Westy

the teste
Nov 22, 2002
55,654
21,662
Sleazattle
Maybe.. but all the connections look clean, with no visible corrosion. There's also no evidence of water or event any dust in/on the wires.

Assuming the CANbus module is not in the door I would check the micro switch. What is the resistance when closed. Should be able to ring it out from the connector if you can find a pin out.
 

canadmos

Cake Tease
May 29, 2011
21,647
21,069
Canaderp
Assuming the CANbus module is not in the door I would check the micro switch. What is the resistance when closed. Should be able to ring it out from the connector if you can find a pin out.
The canbus module doesn't look like its on the door.

Will check resistance.

I did some more googling and have found that the wires that go through the hinge and into the headliner, actually go down the body to the drivers side, behind the rear seat. Might have to get back there and test the wires from those connections, back to the hinge area.


I should take a picture of the amount of wiring in the door, its pretty crazy. I'm still not sure what exactly is the source of the problem - but thinking its a wiring problem, given how shit just works and then doesn't.

But the way things are wired together... the camera is triggered by one of the rear reverse lights being turned on. The lock it wired to the camera somehow. So if one of these doesn't work correctly, its all wonky.

for my own reference later - https://www.golfmkv.com/forums/index.php?threads/tailgate-wires-broken-rear-lock-reverse-lights-handle-not-working-soldering-advice-comments-please.383750/
 

canadmos

Cake Tease
May 29, 2011
21,647
21,069
Canaderp
Also...this isn't my picture, but you can see that VW choose to not colour code the wires that go into the headliner. What a bunch of little shits!

1719500069615.png
 

Westy

the teste
Nov 22, 2002
55,654
21,662
Sleazattle
The canbus module doesn't look like its on the door.

Will check resistance.

I did some more googling and have found that the wires that go through the hinge and into the headliner, actually go down the body to the drivers side, behind the rear seat. Might have to get back there and test the wires from those connections, back to the hinge area.


I should take a picture of the amount of wiring in the door, its pretty crazy. I'm still not sure what exactly is the source of the problem - but thinking its a wiring problem, given how shit just works and then doesn't.

But the way things are wired together... the camera is triggered by one of the rear reverse lights being turned on. The lock it wired to the camera somehow. So if one of these doesn't work correctly, its all wonky.

for my own reference later - https://www.golfmkv.com/forums/index.php?threads/tailgate-wires-broken-rear-lock-reverse-lights-handle-not-working-soldering-advice-comments-please.383750/
I doubt a regular OBD tool will give you any pertinent codes but this might.


I'd loan you mine if it wasn't for cross border shenanigans.
 

MikeD

Leader and Demogogue of the Ridemonkey Satinists
Oct 26, 2001
11,735
1,819
chez moi
Corrosion issue?

FOTU 571 Electrical Contact Grease,Conductive Grease Electrical Connections, Prevent Wiring and Other Electrical Connections Against Salt, Dirt, and Corrosion (1-Pack, 3.5 Oz) https://a.co/d/02WZlxN7
I think I should have some of that on hand in general.

Also, insert VAG grease comment of choice here. Then discuss how any grease is VAG grease if you use it to grease your VAG.
 
Last edited:

Toshi

butthole powerwashing evangelist
Oct 23, 2001
39,326
8,419
I heard there’s a nubbin near the top of the hinge that’ll let the mechanism lubricate itself under certain conditions through some black magic