Never felt it on Zeb but definitely experienced it on older RS forks, it seems to be from the bottom of the bushing mushrooming against its seat - seemed to develop in-use rather than from new. Possibly under heavily-loaded hits (eg. under braking) the stanchion/bushing friction forces it...
This is why I've always liked adjustments on frames, they allow getting the bike closer to the exact right fit for you / your preferences. Sometimes being locked into the other setting (or even the middle ground) would have been a deal breaker.
Sweet rig @bullcrew !
Going full 29?
Same experience as Flo here @Boozzz , mine do none of the things you mentioned.
They are now 5-6 years old and still feel great, have held up through a few crashes too.
I'd be contacting the company direct with your concerns, but by now you've had complaints about every single brake on the...
DT rims and spokes = great, DT hubs = meh
Star ratchets were never great - slow engagement, high drag, expensive parts, custom tool required to access one of the bearings (behind a proprietary nut that tightens under drive force).
18T was a slow joke, 36T slipped under some, 54T slipped under...
I'd return any brand new rotor that wasn't straight enough for application, but good luck getting your high expectations met in a Hayes-priced product. They're great value but there's also a reason competing products exist at 3x the price.
I'd just wait/save and get the full Hayes A4 system, though it's against the spirit of the thread and Boozzz is probably more in-tune with this stuff than I am these days.
I'd skip the Cleg4 and get the DRT.
I've only tried Galfer Pro and Trickstuff Power, of those two I much preferred the...
It's hard to get around this with the modern generation of powerful brakes with reasonably short throw - Formula / Trickstuff require similar so I wouldn't hold it against Hayes. Not perfect but better than the alternatives in my book. I've been replacing rotors more often to make sure they're...
I found the 35mm boxxer to deflect/rebound significantly more in rutted lines compared to the 40, could never go back.
38-40mm makes sense for a modern DH fork. Goes where you point it and needs less correction.
Sounded interesting until I read the PB article where they provide an overlaid...
Galfer still a no from me.
If you can't make a pad that works with the most common midrange rotor in the world...
FWIW it was an icetech RT86 203mm (they're still made in Japan), seems to work fine with other pads.
Galfer Pro / Green = didn't bite very well
Galfer Red = didn't bite in wet...
I did not have a good experience with Galfer Pro pads, bought multiple pairs on recommendation from a local enduro expert and while they didn't do anything terribly wrong, they just didn't stop / bite all that well. Probably the most lacklustre brake pad I've purchased in a while.
I used them...
You can optionally hold the lever pressed in to remove the reservoir from the active system when drawing vacuum at the caliper end (useful for clearing air from the caliper when bleeding an empty system). The MC piston seal is still weak in this direction but stronger than the reservoir...
There's a lot of incorrect information in this thread, particularly re: effects of preloaded shim stack.
If the shock is brand new and stock, run it as-is and don't change anything. If you are running a 550lb spring, it is unlikely the valving will be too stiff, in fact the more likely scenario...
Love that they maintained backwards compatibility over all these years!
I'd like to build a 29" full coil 40 later this year, presumably if the stanchion length is the same we can still use an RC2 damper.
Keep us updated if you try it.
Same here, SIXC is one of the tougher carbon bars out there. I've crashed on all mine a few times.
Worth noting they've gotten a little stronger and heavier each version. Never managed to break any, but I do downgrade the old bars to a lighter-duty bike every few seasons to be safe. As with any...
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