'13 Turner DHR sizing/ reviews?

csermonet · Jul 30, 2014

I don't think the sizing has changed at all for any of the new gen DHR's, I am 6'1 and ride a large and it fits perfect. If you ride a large right now and feel it is a bit small, the large DHR will probably be good.

Nick · Jul 30, 2014

I'm 5'11 on a large dw-DHR and love it.

blindboxx2334 · Jul 30, 2014

FWIW,

when i had my operator (im also 5-11), kona told me i was on the cusp for a medium and large (just as you are). i went with a medium thinking that would be my best decision due to pretty much running smaller frames all the time.

if i was to do it all over, i would have went with a large. when i was jumping and goin fast (or atleast i like to think i was), i felt cramped.. so, the next build (current bike) i did was a larger frame. couldnt be happier!

probably of no help to you, but at least i can say i tried.

fro biker · Jul 30, 2014

5'10", have a large DHR. At your height, you should be on a large regardless of the brand.

Worth noting: Turner is selling the DHR direct for less than 2k. I'd spend up and get the one with the nicer shock personally.
Great frame layout and design. DW-Link works how it should, and the geo is spot on. It is what the Sunday would have evolved into.

StiHacka · Jul 30, 2014

I am 5'9" and ride a medium DHR with a 50mm stem and 800mm bars. I tried to like a 45mm stem but the cockpit felt too tight - maybe it was in my head but I was surprised how much difference the 5mm made. I would most likely go with L if I were you.

I bought the raw version with RC2 and I am going to be spending the RC4-RC2 difference on Avy SSD mod.

blindboxx2334 · Jul 30, 2014

large- 162
medium- 0

6thElement · Jul 30, 2014

6'2" on an XL

Nick · Jul 30, 2014

TrumbullHucker said:
Damnit all..

Thanks guys, I appreciate the info and will continue to try to be patient haha

Cheap Large ... BOOSH! http://www.pinkbike.com/buysell/1613390/

yd35 · Jul 31, 2014

5' 8" and on a medium. I'd go large at your height.

iRider · Jul 31, 2014

What is with an offset headset? Solves the problem of being in between sizes?

ocelot · Jul 31, 2014

The DHR es muy rapido.

Watch out for the section of downtube near the BB. I put a small dent on it on my 4th day out. But then again, I cased a gap and felt a huge rock fly into the frame on the same day. I had one layer of mastic tape covering it - I've now doubled it up. Doesn't anyone make a downtube guard for the DHR?

I'm about 5'8" and ride a medium.

StiHacka · Jul 31, 2014

ocelot said:
Doesn't anyone make a downtube guard for the DHR?

Schwalbe does. They call it Hans Dampf.

Sandwich · Jul 31, 2014

I'd definitely be on a large at 5'11". Looking at the reach measurements, I'd probably want an XL and run a 35 stem. I really enjoyed my large yakuza set up like that, but I can't find accurate reach measurements on it.

kidwoo · Jul 31, 2014

yd35 said:
5' 8" and on a medium. I'd go large at your height.

What he said.

If it has that big shaft (huh huh) Fox rear shock on there, get rid of that. Basically ANY other coil shock will be better. Bad match with that frame.

canadmos · Jul 31, 2014

Isn't that what it comes with?

fro biker · Jul 31, 2014

kidwoo said:
If it has that big shaft (huh huh) Fox rear shock on there, get rid of that. Basically ANY other coil shock will be better. Bad match with that frame.

Can you extrapolate on that?

kidwoo · Aug 1, 2014

canadmos said:
Isn't that what it comes with?

The first year (maybe second) did.

They're coming with with newer ones as of last year I think. If it's a 2013 frame, it may not have it. Check though, I'm not entirely sure. I just got my frame and have only half paid attention since then.

Fro: That fat shaft displaces a lot of oil as it compresses.....and in turn displaces a lot of the pressurized part of that piggyback. That gives the shock a good bit of ramp up. Although this frame is a little less so than the old single pivots, the frame is also designed to ramp up a good bit at the end of the stroke. It's a little much as a combo in my opinion. I'm still on a first run frame (what was that 2011? 2012? model year..) I've been running various vivids on mine and it opens up that diving leverage ratio at the end of the stroke much more so than the fox.

I don't mind it so much on jumpy swoopy trails. But for banging into things repeatedly on your average rough dh run, a shock without that inherent ramp up is a little better fit.

To the OP: if you still care about reviews and haven't looked yet, here's one I did when I got mine.

http://blistergearreview.com/gear-reviews/2011-turner-dhr

There are a few others out there. Just be aware if you find the nsmb one. That dude had a beat down post-whistler demo frame that had a messed up shock or a roached bearing on the frame.....one or the other, I forget. (I know this for a fact based on turner getting it back and looking at it). So keep that in mind when he gripes about harshness. His bike wasn't working right.

Bikemag did one too.
http://www.bikemag.com/gear/tested-turner-dhr/

Nick · Aug 1, 2014

TrumbullHucker said:
snagged this one

score. you're gonna dig it.

yd35 · Aug 1, 2014

kidwoo said:
There are a few others out there. Just be aware if you find the nsmb one. That dude had a beat down post-whistler demo frame that had a messed up shock or a roached bearing on the frame.....one or the other, I forget. (I know this for a fact based on turner getting it back and looking at it). So keep that in mind when he gripes about harshness. His bike wasn't working right.

Also, the guy who reviewed and disliked the Turner on NSMB had a frame with the old style, fat shaft RC4 on it. As mentioned by Woo, the old style RC4 doesn't play nice with the DHR, giving it a harsher feel through rough stuff. If the shock was blown or if there was a busted frame bearing somewhere, the ride would be even harsher.

yd35 · Aug 1, 2014

canadmos said:
Isn't that what it comes with?

Yeah, a little puzzling from a performance perspective as to why they'd spec the bike with a suboptimal shock, but I believe the decision came from a marketing point of view, i.e. people like/recognize Fox, and a Fox equipped frame will sell better.

Sandwich · Aug 1, 2014

From what I've read most people just open the chamber way up and run minimal pressure...

I thought some (fat boy) shocks don't fit on it.

csermonet · Aug 1, 2014

I have the old style RC4 on mine and haven't notice any ill effects. I run my Boost Valve fully open with 140psi, instead of the recommended 150psi on the Turner site. Rides like a dream. Would be curious to see how the new style RC4 compares, if it supposedly even better.

Nick · Aug 1, 2014

So this shock shaft voodoo is news to me. I measured the shaft of my new RC4 at 15.8mm. Is that considered the "fat" shaft?

(that's what she said!)

I too love the way it rides as-is. but would like to know if it can be improved upon.

HAB · Aug 1, 2014

Yeah, that's the fat shaft.

Sandwich · Aug 1, 2014

I thought it was the "2014" model where they reduced the effect of the boost valve, reducing the internal ramp up of the design. So, if you have a "2014" or later shock, you should have all the jazz.

The sensitivity of the shock has mainly been increased by reducing the diameter of the shaft from 5/8″ to 1/2″. This reduces friction and it has the added benefit of allowing more room for oil.

http://dirtmountainbike.com/news/2014-fox-40-float-rc2-dhx-rc4.html#!btbQw3

yd35 · Aug 1, 2014

csermonet said:
I have the old style RC4 on mine and haven't notice any ill effects. I run my Boost Valve fully open with 140psi, instead of the recommended 150psi on the Turner site. Rides like a dream. Would be curious to see how the new style RC4 compares, if it supposedly even better.

The old style RC4 is not bad by any means! I think you'd have to be really big, super fast or maybe both to be bothered to the point where you don't like the bike. The thing to consider is that you have to run the old RC4 pretty loose (low psi, biggest boost valve, less compression) to get it supple on the DHR. If you're big, fast or both, you'd have to dial up your settings and as a result, lose the smoothness of the DW-Link. That's a sacrifice you have to make to some extent on all bikes, but it would be more pronounced with the old RC4.

I'm not very big or fast, but I did notice less harshness on high speed square edgy stuff when I switched to an X-Fusion Vector HLR with roughly similar settings.

SkullCrack · Aug 1, 2014

If anyone is looking for a cheap alternative to a "fat shaft" RC4, I'm selling a DHX 5.0 with the Push MX tune that was tuned for the DW DHR. http://www.pinkbike.com/buysell/1602649/

canadmos · Aug 1, 2014

I am going to ride the snot out of my DHR this long weekend. Just sayin'

fro biker · Aug 1, 2014

Kid and others who have touched on the fat shaft (har har): Interesting to note. I actually have the fat one on there, as it is a pilfered shock off of an Undead. I haven't had enough time to really judge whether the "big hits" are bottling up, or if I'm just riding like **** - fwiw, it rode just fine at Windham this weekend, and the massive hits that did bother me were probably beyond the scope of shaft diameter. I would actually really like to get an Ohlins done up for the DW DHR. I think that would be a sweettitties combo.

canadmos · Aug 1, 2014

I've got the big ole shaft on mine too. It seems to handle everything pretty well? Though the shock is still a tiny bit under sprung for my weight, maybe that alters things?

kidwoo · Aug 1, 2014

It's not like that shock doesn't work with the bike or anything. I rode mine with it for a month and I still keep the shock as a back up.

It just gives the frame a little too much ramp for my liking. You might not even notice it. In which case, just ignore what I said. But if you do find that even when pounding the crap out of things, there's still some travel that doesn't even get touched while still running an appropriate amount of sag......it's just something you should look into.

canadmos · Aug 1, 2014

Hold on, let me go try it now.

Udi · Aug 1, 2014

Since there seems to be a bit of interest in this topic, I personally think the fat shaft arguably works better on both the DW-DHR and Undead linkages with a small caveat.

Stock for stock, the 2014 RC4 shock (small shaft, no boost valve) will be more suited to both bikes, because the large shaft (2013 and earlier) combined with the BV generates higher compression damping and slightly higher spring forces in the late stroke - both of which are detrimental to square edged bump performance on these two bikes which have a very stable midstroke (constant leverage ratio) followed by heavy EOS progression (leverage decrease).

The large shaft also generates an air preload component at beginning of stroke, which on most bikes would be undesirable. However, both of these frames (along with the V10C, particularly in 10" mode) have a very high initial leverage ratio, in my opinion more than they need to. This means you end up having an inch of travel that moves so easily that it does nothing except make the bike wallow more, and very likely not generating high enough normal forces to be of any traction-related benefit.

Thus the air preload component of the large shaft RC4 and excessively high initial leverage seem to balance out to an equilibrium of traction and support.

But what about the harsh square edge performance? I removed the BV from mine which removes the end stroke increase in compression damping, and increased the IFP depth to reduce the end stroke increase in spring rate. With the BV removed you also get a little more depth range for the IFP, I set mine at 1mm up from bottomed.

This is good news for owners of fat shaft RC4s in these frames, because it means you don't need a new shock, and a knowledgeable suspension service center (somewhere like Vorsprung) can make the required changes without any additional parts.

The end result is a shock that doesn't blow through the first inch or two, but also doesn't suffer on square edges and require you to run every setting wide open to compensate for excessive damper progression. Hope that's useful or of interest to someone, as it took me a while to figure out how to tune a shock for the dual progressive curve.

'13 Turner DHR sizing/ reviews?

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