[LordOpie]

Whatcha guys know/think about Steelman? This frame looks like it might work for me. it's 56ST x 55TT x 16.5HT and I need ~57x55x18... depending upon angles and what not. I'm not looking for a perfect fit or I'd just go custom.

In addition to your opinions of the frame, etc... what do you think is a good price to bid?

If I stripped my current bike, with exceptions*, how many hours should I expect it to take considering I've never done this before?


* I'd get a new stem, BB, and cranks for this frame and have a shop install the BB and cranks.

TIA!

 

[Ridemonkey]

Steelman bikes are sweet.

 

[LordOpie]

Steelman bikes are sweet.

Yea! You're not too angry with me to respond!

Can you elaborate? I hadn't heard of them before this auction.

 

[The Toninator]

nice custom steel.

 

[JRB]

Yea! You're not too angry with me to respond!

Uhm - do you think that it is such a good idea???

 

[LordOpie]

Uhm - do you think that it is such a good idea???

apparently not.

Okay, I've done more looking, Steelman is most definitely good stuff... how much is the ebay offer worth?

 

[Wumpus]

Seems to be Reynolds middle of the road tubeset.

 

[LordOpie]

Seems to be Reynolds middle of the road tubeset.

Would the main factor be weight or would better steel absorb more noise and provide a stiffer frame?

I'm pretty happy with my steel frame and think it's a lower grade (300series?).

I test rode both 853 and OX and was quite pleased. I

'm not concerned about weight.

 

[Wumpus]

If you read the blurb on 853, it sounds like there is some difference in weld strength and strength to weight.

I've heard that you can't use 853 for the stays just the main triangle because it is too brittle(?).

 

[Wumpus]

If I stripped my current bike, with exceptions*, how many hours should I expect it to take considering I've never done this before?


* I'd get a new stem, BB, and cranks for this frame and have a shop install the BB and cranks.

TIA!

Swapping the parts should take less than an hour. The time is really is really in the adjustments and cable running.

Have you ever installed a new derailuer and cables?

 

[The Toninator]

If you read the blurb on 853, it sounds like there is some difference in weld strength and strength to weight.

I've heard that you can't use 853 for the stays just the main triangle because it is too brittle(?).

i think you 'can' do it it just takes a very skilled person to do it so most people cheat and use navicrom.

 

[The Toninator]

525 is nice it's just not as light or stong as 853 and it's bunches cheaper.

 

[The Toninator]

mr steelman is proud of his work

STEEL & STEEL/CARBON ROAD FRAMES & BIKES
SR - Stage Race custom road frame all steel frame only (Ouzo Pro carbon or Steelman steel fork add 230.00) 1850.00

SR - Stage Race custom road frame using steel main tubes and chainstays w/Dedacciai Black Tail carbon fiber monocoque seat stays. add 230.00 (Ouzo Pro carbon fork add 230.00) 1950.00
SR - Stage Race custom road frame using steel main tubes w/Dedacciai Black Tail/Black Box or Drive Tail/Drive Box carbon fiber monocoque rear end. (Ouzo Pro carbon fork add 230.00) 2100.00

 

[DBR X6 RIDER]

A friend of mine has been riding his Steelman 'cross frame for a solid four years now. Still loves it as much as he did when he first got it.
I'm not an expert in metals, so I'll leave that for our resident experts.

I don't think I would buy a frame online unless I was able to find the same frame built up somewhere so I could see how it feels. I can see buying stuff like cranks, derailleurs and saddles. I'm just picky that way.

 

[LordOpie]

Have you ever installed a new derailuer and cables?

nope, but I've been learning to tune 'em.

I'm also not installing new, so, like cable stretch won't be an issue.

525 is nice it's just not as light or stong as 853 and it's bunches cheaper.

What do you mean by "strong"? Durable, flex, something else?

 

[The Toninator]

nope, but I've been learning to tune 'em.

I'm also not installing new, so, like cable stretch won't be an issue.

What do you mean by "strong"? Durable, flex, something else?

it will probably actually have a stiffer ride than 853 and be heavier and strong as in bendy. Flex maybe but if you hit a brick wall it wont hold up as well as the 853.

 

[Pau11y]

LO, my Strong cost me $375.00 in auction + $15.00 for shipping. We made a deal after for a King HS and a Ouzo Pro full carbon fork for an additional $188.00 shipping included. So the total was around $580.00 for frame, fork, HS.
Now, the Strong uses Foco mix, which is Columbus' 2nd to the top of line steel tubeset. Ultra Foco is their top end tubeset, but I'd be snappin' something w/ my weight and those thinnnnnn tubes. The down tube on mine is a custom drawn, prob a NivaChrom flavor (like 3rd from top of line, but stiffer and stronger). The top tube, head tube and chain stays were recognized as Foco by Strong (I called them and e-mailed them the first 3 pics for a critique).
I don't have milage on my frame, but it looks only lightly used by the scuffing on the paint. It also looks like it's been Frame Saver'd since I found absolutely NO rust and a consistant red oily film on the inside of the BB shell and head tube.
Steelman make good frames and if you can find one used and cheap, great. But I'd be a bit cautious of the cheaper tubes. The trend I've found w/ custom builders using cheaper tubes is that cheaper tubes have more meat in them which builders use to fight flex for heavier ppl.
So in your case, find out the reserve and make a judgement call from there. Also, if you can, find out the milage and figure it was ridden by a heavier guy and judge to see if fatigue is also a factor.
My $0.02

 

[Wumpus]

i think you 'can' do it it just takes a very skilled person to do it so most people cheat and use navicrom.

No stays are listed under 853.

"Reynolds 725 series stays are recommended with 853 main tubes."

 

[The Toninator]

No stays are listed under 853.

"Reynolds 725 series stays are recommended with 853 main tubes."

no to what?

 

[Pau11y]

As for parts transfer, it took me 4+ hours to do my De Rosa to Strong transfer. I went VERY slow to get everything right the first time. Brake toe-in, BB preload, wheel true and dish (this took the most time), housing length, new cables, seat attitude, and greasing every nut and bolt again. I didn't have to repack any bearing surface as the wheels were Ksyriums, HS was King, and BB was brand spankin' new DA. However typically, I'd do those too. In your case, you might want your LBS to chase out your BB threads and maybe even face the head tube if the HS cups are out. You can test to see if the BB needs it by hand spinning in a cup into either side. If no resistance at all, then don't chase 'em.

 

[Wumpus]

nope, but I've been learning to tune 'em.

I'm also not installing new, so, like cable stretch won't be an issue.

If you are going to the trouble of building it, put new cable and housings on. Shouldn't run more than $20. You are going to have to tune it regardless of whether you use the same old ones or new ones. Then after a few rides you adjust it again which really only involves a turn or two of the barrel adjuster.

 

[Wumpus]

no to what?

There are no 853 stays listed in the reynolds catalog.

http://www.reynoldscycles.co.uk/downloads/PARTLIST.pdf

 

[Pau11y]

If you are going to the trouble of building it, put new cable and housings on. Shouldn't run more than $20. You are going to have to tune it regardless of whether you use the same old ones or new ones. Then after a few rides you adjust it again which really only involves a turn or two of the barrel adjuster.

LO, I'd do what Wumpus says, but get the Sram 1.1mm cables for shifting, and DON'T get the black coated cables for braking. Even w/ the nice DA cables, it's only like $25.00 for the whole bike.
With cables, use ABSOLUTELY NO LUBE in the housing. Infact, clean off the cable of that day-glo green goop when you shove your inner cable thru.