Would a Psylo or Z1, or Vanilla 125, Sherman with a regular QR feature be strong enough to handle an 8" disc rotor up front?
Or would those only work well on thru-axle forks?
Or would those only work well on thru-axle forks?
You are 100% correct. However, you also can use the 8" rotor to apply MORE stress to the mounts than a 6" rotor - but it'll stop you waaaaay faster than a 6" rotor. For a given stopping distance from a given speed with a given rider weight, 8" is less stressful. The problem arises when you use the 8" rotor to exceed the stopping capabilities of a 6" rotor. Personally, I don't think I use the 8"s on my bike to stop me any faster than a 6 (I can skid my front wheel with a 6" or pull a stoppie), but rather to do it with less finger pressure. Which is just fine as far as my brake mounts are concerned.Originally posted by kidwoo
Um, I can't be the only person that knows this but an 8 inch rotor puts LESS force on the fork and more on the hub for the same brake squeeze. Think about your simple machines and the lever in particular
Originally posted by Tootrikky
You guys are missing the point.
-Fact
*Notice how I stated what I knew for a fact, and what was my personal opinion (Not that anyone was doing that in this post just tired of people doing this in forums)
Hmm, my buddy recently destroyed a Psylo fork and front wheel. He had the Psylo with the standard 9mm QR axle. I have the Psylo w/20mm axle, not a problem. My bud distinctly remember the front wheel/fork going into "pretzel" mode on the berm dropin at the WG. I was standing onside of the apex of he berm....not a pretty sight. I would suggest a fork with 20mm axle on 8"ers.Originally posted by MMcG
Would a Psylo or Z1, or Vanilla 125, Sherman with a regular QR feature be strong enough to handle an 8" disc rotor up front?
Or would those only work well on thru-axle forks?
Okay, correct me if I am wrong here, but i thought the issue was with breakage of the dropout, not the axel slipping out. Since torqe is Force X Radius, the torque on the dropout caused by an 8 inch rotor, with force remaining constant (this force being the maximum amount of force you can apply to the brake lever) would be about 33% higher then with a 6 inch rotor.Originally posted by Kornphlake
I think you have to realize we are talking about very small deflections when we assume that the caliper does anything to the fork. It's not like you could take a picture of somebody riding and say "woah look at his fork, his caliper is at almost 90 degrees to where it should be." The hub is sliding out of the dropouts or the dropout breaks because the fork is twisting and the hub doesn't so something has to give, either the axle pops out of the dropout or the dropout breaks.
Here's a rough sketch to illustrate the difference between an 8" and a 6" rotor, the 8" clearly seems to be the ideal location as it pushes the axle into the back side of the dropout more so than the 6" rotor.