[OB1]

So I'm looking around for info to help me fine tune my 08 888 ata wc. But i'm having trouble following some of the suggestions. Everyone talks about the PAR like it's on the same leg as the air chambers. But my PAR dial is on the right leg with rebound on top. Left leg is compression on the bottom, ATA on top. So why does everyone keep telling me my PAR adjustment IS my lower air chamber, when it's on the other leg?

 

[DRAKETHOMAS]

PAR is always on the damper side.Progressive Air Resistance for the oil reserve volume.

 

[acair422]

anyone care to share any tips about throwing new lowers onto the same fork? i just got a new set from 'zocchi...

 

[ffejufo]

I ride 50 psi in the ata and 90 psi in the par rebound 12 cicks 3 clicks compression 10 clicks volume I weigh 190lb watch out if there 08,s my only have 6" inches of travel now and are getting fixed thery have broke 3 times 2 times the air pressure equal out top and bottom the same psi now 6" instead of 8" of travel

 

[Lelandjt]

anyone care to share any tips about throwing new lowers onto the same fork? i just got a new set from 'zocchi...

Unscrew the nuts on the bottom of each leg and yank, some lubricating oil will come out. Flip the fork upside down. Put the new legs almost all the way on. Pour a little fork oil in the holes at the bottom before pushing them all the way on and tighten the nuts.

As for all the other questions there's some misinformation here:
888 ATA WCs have the air valve for the main air chamber on top of the right leg. the valve for the PAR chamber is on the bottom of the right leg. PAR is intended to make the spring rate more progressive and requires you to put more pressure in it than the main chamber. Riding with the same pressure in each chamber is equivalent to removing PAR. Many people think this fork is too progressive and doesn't get full travel so they remove PAR.
The bottom of the left leg has a compression adjuster. When I asked Marzocchi if this is HSC or LSC they said, "both". on top of the left leg is the red air volume adjuster and black rebound knob. If you needed the fork to resist bottom-out you could screw the red knob in to reduce the air volume in the damper cartridge. Everyone has the opposite problem of not getting full travel so we all run this at max volume. Like most forks these build up air pressure in the legs during use and that makes them feel harsh and not get full travel. The solution is to use a large crescent wrench on the left side (careful not to lose the detent balls when you take the adjuster knobs off) and a cassette tool on the right side to unscrew the fork's top caps until the o-ring clears the top of the leg and the built up pressure hisses out. I do this every couple days.
For reference I weigh 165lbs and run 90psi, 3 clicks of compression, and 9 clicks of rebound.

 

[IH8Rice]

The solution is to use a large crescent wrench on the left side (careful not to lose the detent balls when you take the adjuster knobs off) and a cassette tool on the right side to unscrew the fork's top caps until the o-ring clears the top of the leg and the built up pressure hisses out. I do this every couple days.
For reference I weigh 165lbs and run 90psi, 3 clicks of compression, and 9 clicks of rebound.

do you have to re-pressurize the ATA and PAR when you do this?
and which o-ring are you referring to?

 

[Lelandjt]

No. The air and damper cartridges are entirely self contained and sealed. The air is building up inside the fork legs but outside the cartridges. When you unscrew the top caps you will see an o-ring at the top of the threads. As soon as the o-ring clears the stantion you'll hear air hiss out. I assume the o-ring is there to keep lubricating oil from leaking out the threads but since the threads are pretty fine and long and gravity is on your side I'm gonna cut the o-ring off in hopes that this prevents pressure build up. I also want to open the top of the damper to see if the air in it has built up any pressure. Since I live at 10,000ft and the fork was assembled at sea level I'm sure some air will hiss out.
Basically, this is the most bottom-out resistant huck fork I've ever ridden but I want a more linear feel that allows me to get full travel once a day without having to run such low air pressure that it sags and wallows halfway into the travel.
I highly suggest you follow these directions to remove PAR, very easy: http://forums.mtbr.com/showpost.php?p=3195344&postcount=350

 

[IH8Rice]

thanks for the tip. im having trouble for the fourth time of not getting full travel. this tip seems to make sense and ill try it when i get home.
when i talked to Gideon at Marz, he said to remove the oil that is built up in the PAR chamber by letting is escape from the bottom schrader valve.

i was going to remove the PAR, but im selling the fork and ill let the new owner decide on whether or not to do it

 

[Lelandjt]

If you don't want to remove PAR do like Gideon said to maximize PAR chamber volume. Then, inflate PAR and Main chambers to the same pressure (PAR first). This will give about the same feel as no PAR.