Build 'em with straight gauge if you want a stronger wheel. Build them with butted if you want a slightly lighter wheel that you have to true more often.
Cue ten page thread and "I built blah blah for blah blah years......"
Build 'em with straight gauge if you want a stronger wheel. Build them with butted if you want a slightly lighter wheel that you have to true more often.
Cue ten page thread and "I built blah blah for blah blah years......"
If you insist on using aluminum nipples, I actually think Supercomps build stronger because they're only 1.8mm at the threads, so the nipple walls end up being thicker and they don't break as easily. But that's a lot of money to spend for not much weight savings. Unless you're going super weight weenie (and since you're using 823s I'm thinking not) you can't go wrong with straight gauge and brass nips.
Makes a stiff wheelset. And Strong! I busted a Mavic EX823 on a big case I had (I had to hire a lawyer!) - and the rim cracked on the point of impact, while the wheel still stayed true - kinda insane (not a single spoke broke). And I still use the same spokes without any indication of problems.
And I also like to see the look on people's faces when you tell them that each spoke costs 3 euros .
Another vote the CX ray spokes,outstanding good & strong spokes.Done a view hard DH rides with it and still not broken.My next DH wheelset is going to be spec'd with the new Sapim super spoke
go with the cheapest spokes you can find, around where i live they are like 0.2$, yes the whell will be a 100g heavier but you will save 200$ compared to the cx rays
I managed to scoop up some mawri straight gauge Ti spokes a while back and if I could afford to build everything with them I would. They are 14ga so there aren't any issues with Al nips, and they are lighter than a dt super comp.
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