[SVEN]

I need some new pads and I want the best. What will stop me the best? I am running 990's w/o a rotor for your information.

Also, PNJ, do you make house calls to set up 990's for people?

 

[pnj]

there is NO WAY you have a rotor.

a gyro maybe but not a rotor.

the rotor was put out by a company called ACS (american cycle systems I believe). this was before the gyro. it slid up and down on your stem shaft (you don't have a stem shaft if you have an oversized head tub) and used one single cable on top and one single cable on the bottom.

it had a TON of friction because the single cables pulled from one side, unlike the gyro which pulls w/ two cable. also metal on metal is never good. the fact that you HAD to have your stem about 2 inches high sucked too. this was the cause of many bent stems.
the gyro floats so there is no friction there. I think the gyro was the ONLY good thing to come out of the 80's.(asides from all my fav. metal bands)

um...now onto your question.

softer pads usually work better. Eagle Claw seem to be popular pads, Cool Stop, Mathausers(sp?) and odyssey are all good pads too.
hard pads are better for wet performance but I'm doubting you ride in the rain on that bike.

the thing w/ 990's and the gyro is that the pads/rims need to be cleaned on a semi-regualer basis. I usually just grab a clean rag, squirt some glass cleaner or something (alot of people like simple green) and wipe the rim and then slide the wet rag under the pads and pull it back and forth a few times. when I'm feeling like my brakes really need it (once a yea?) I take the pads off and clean them by themselves.

with mountain bikes the levers have springs, the cables are short(less friction) and the brakes (v's or disks) are far more effeciant(sp?) so you don't really need to keep them as clean as the bmx stuff.

where do you live? I might could give you a lesson on setting your brakes up. it's pretty easy.

 

[SVEN]

yeah, sorry about the rotor thing. i too was around BMX at that time and even though I never had a rotor, I have since always called gyros rotors. Thanks for the tips, I am in the seatac area. i always DJ at south seatac (softees?) so maybe you could come out sometime and show me whats up.

 

[pnj]

what's your schedule like?
I work 9-5ish M-F and usually have weekends off but get to work this Sat. for an unknown amount of time.

When you purchase new pads, don't forget to get the correct kind for your brakes.
bolt on vs. posts.

 

[Mudpuppy]

I was wondering if thes pads would work well? http://www.webcyclery.com/.docs/product_id/1715/category_name/Brakes+Shoes+and+Pads/pg/product_detail.html Does anyone have experience with these? I figured trials type pads would give the best braking.

 

[Squid]

Holy crap!!! I actually had a ROTOR on my old Schwinn Predator! I tossed it cause it was such a piece of crap! I was starting to think rotors were something I had only imagined in a bad dream!!!

Brake pads - a couple of the rochester monkies use the trials pads, and seem to like them. I think Echo has the CoolStop pads and those are nice too.

Like Pnj said, I've found regular cleaning to be important to keeping an already marginal brake system working in any kind of useful capacity.

On an interesting side note: my BMX bike (Free Agent) came with 990's on the back, and V brakes on the front?!?? has anyone else ever seen that before? I thought V brakes only got used on BMX race bikes, and then, only in the back?

 

[pnj]

Originally posted by Mudpuppy
I was wondering if thes pads would work well? http://www.webcyclery.com/.docs/product_id/1715/category_name/Brakes+Shoes+and+Pads/pg/product_detail.html Does anyone have experience with these? I figured trials type pads would give the best braking.

I would say right off hand that they wouldn't be too good just because it says they are good for the wet. most bmx kids don't ride in the rain so softer pads tend to work better.

but, I've never used them so maybe they do.

I know I have used the stock crap hard as a rock pads that come w/ 990's and my brakes worked fine too.

I think it is more a matter of how you set your brakes/pads/gyro(if you run one) up.

alot of times people say their gyro robs power and is squishy but that's because the pads don't hit the rims flat. they are very angled(sp?) so the brake arms flex like mad. add that to the slop in the gyro cables and you've got some poo poo feeling brakes.

almost anything will work if set up correctly. I mentioned using the stock pads and having my brakes work fine. but, I cleaned them on a weekly basis too. so it was a trade off.

I think too that people want "the best" and think there is only one way to get there. you can have your brakes set up (or anything for that matter) in alot of different ways and they will still work kick ass. depends on what you want them to do.
some people like one finger extreme stoping power and others like there brake to not lock up at all(good for manuals if you use your brakes like mad on them)

Squid, I've never seen v's on the front and 990's on the back. but i'm still amazed at the kind of crazy stuff i see on bikes these days.

 

[bru]

i swear by salmon koolstop phatpads if your rims are tall enough to handle them.

 

[johnhoodbikes]

alright Squid, I had the same set up and was my first "freestyle bike"

 

[bru]

The key to a good brake system is rim/pad friction and a friction-free stiff power transfer between the lever and brake. Soft pads and chrome rims can't be beat for stopping power. You have to keep them aligned, clean, and dry to work right though. If you are running a gyro, try to make your upper cables as kink-free as possible. Either get the right length upper cables or buy some knarps or a pervert. Keep the cables and housing extremely clean and well lubricated. Flexy gyro plates and poo housing rob power so a frame and stem with built in gyro stops helps. Dual lower brake cables are stiffer and easier to tune. I have also used a spoke or a chain as a straddle cable with good results. Don't crank your brake springs too high. Just enough to pull the pads from the rim. Too much spring and you are wasting energy at the lever that could be used for braking.

I am constantly tinkering with my bmx brakes and right now my setup is working pretty good. Tech 77 lever, Hombres, salmon Koolstop phatpads, chrome Primo hula-hoops, and a gyro. I run a Primo pervert in my upper cables with 3/16" automotive copper brake lines as housing bent to nice smooth, friction-less contours to the Kink frontloader stem with built-in gyro tabs. The frame is a Macneil Miron so it has gyro tabs welded to the frame. I use a homemade london-mod (brake bastard) so that I can run two lower cables to my brakes instead of a splitter and stradle cable. I use derailler housing and shift cables between the gyro and brake. Everything is cleaned regularly and lubed with triflo.

If you insist on a gyro like me, I have tried everything and this seems to work so far. Typical upper cables and brake housing suck so that's why my set-up is so weird. A single cabled gyro-less system will work better though and is easier to work on.

 

[pnj]

yep. everything you said is spot on.

it is very possible to use standard cables though. but you need to LUBE THE CR*P OUT OF THEM.

i have a pervert on the top and a standard(stock) cable on the bottom. they work great. not as good as they could w/ other cables and what not but they lock up w/ one finger. what more could you ask for?

I like my brakes to be a bit on the sloppy side though. if they work too good it screws me up.

also, lube on the brake posts helps A TON.

just like you said. friction. lots on the pads/rim. little on everything else.

SVEN, if you want a primo pervert i have one you can have for super duper cheap. but being as rich as you are, i would suggest buying a dragonfly cable.
if you want me to help you set em up send me your phone number.