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Can we talk about my old-ass bike?

proglife

Monkey
Apr 18, 2002
339
0
Annapolis, MD
I built this bike up about a decade ago. I've replaced a part here or there as needed, but it's still kind of an old-ass bike. I don't ride enough to justify any major upgrades or a whole new bike, but for ****s and giggles, would you humor me? If this were your setup, what would you do? Fork upgrade? New frame, too? What am I really missing out on here, if anything?

(For what it's worth, I've never ridden a full suspension bike or a 29er, ever. Nothing against them, I've just had one bike for the last 12 years)


Stuff that hasn't changed in a decade:

Cove Stiffee hardtail frame- circa 2001, 2002 or so...before they went to the squared/RAD tubing
Marzocchi Z1 FR QR20 - 5 inch coil sprung fork. heavy as all hell
Avid BB7 cable brakes w/6 inch rotors front and back
Thomson stem and seatpost
Easton EA 50 riser bar/ODI lock on grips
WTB something or other saddle
LX 9-speed rear derailleur
shimano whatever front derailleur
LX Shifters

Stuff I've updated in the past year or so:
Easton Havoc AM Wheels - old wheel were some heavy XT/Rhyno Lite XL's
SLX Double/bash crank
XT 9-speed cassette
XT SPD trail pedals
Kenda Nevegal 2.3" front tire
Continental Mountain King 2.4" rear tire (I played with a few tires and am happy with this combo)


What would you do? I feel like I could lose a lot of weight by getting something like a X-Fusion Velvet or a Float...something modern, air sprung and around 5 inches. Most stuff seems to have moved away from 1 1/8" steerers, though.

Half of me would like to try a Nimble 9 or a full sus frame.
 

jacksonpt

Turbo Monkey
Jul 22, 2002
6,791
59
Vestal, NY
Looks good to me. 90% of it is going to be a "if it's working for you" type of conversation.

The frame is solid... no need to upgrade that unless you want to go full squish or 29er.
The fork is decent... no need to upgrade if it still feels good
Wheels should be solid... I don't know much about that particular wheelset, but easton stuff is, IME, usually pretty decent.
Brakes are solid
Tires are all personal preference
Bars/post/stem are all fine
Shifters/derailleurs are fine as long as they are working well.

If you're looking to upgrade something, I'd probably look at the fork. But nothing jumps out at me as a "problem"
 

Jim Mac

MAKE ENDURO GREAT AGAIN
May 21, 2004
6,352
282
the middle east of NY
Depending on what you want to do with the bike, the only upgrade that I might make would be the bars. I am assuming that you used to do some freeriding with the bike given the frame/build, so it might be a safe bet to change your bars for that reason alone. While you're at it, you might want to try either some 750 mm or 780 mm wide bars. I run both - 750 on trail and 780 on DH but am planning to do 780 on both next year.
 

proglife

Monkey
Apr 18, 2002
339
0
Annapolis, MD
I am assuming that you used to do some freeriding with the bike given the frame/build, so it might be a safe bet to change your bars for that reason alone.
You'd think, right? I built it up because that was the hot **** at the time and I was a poser, thinking I was going to huck stuff, but I'm too much of a wimp. The bike definitely cruised on the downhills, compared to the steel Trek XC bike I had before it.


While you're at it, you might want to try either some 750 mm or 780 mm wide bars. I run both - 750 on trail and 780 on DH but am planning to do 780 on both next year.

Interesting. What are you saying is "wrong" with the bars I have now? Too wide? too narrow? Too heavy?
 

Jim Mac

MAKE ENDURO GREAT AGAIN
May 21, 2004
6,352
282
the middle east of NY
Just making an assumption that If you did a lot of hucking that the bars might be the first things to go, literally as in snap; but if you were not of the 'hux to flat crowd', then your bars are probably OK. I think the general rule of thumb is to replace bars every 1-2 years if you really abused your bike.

My guess is that your bars might be narrow compared to today's versions. There is nothing wrong with your old bars as much of it is preference, but I have personally found that wider bars have given me more stability at speed and generally "feels better" as I have wide shoulders and long arms. The downside is making sure you can squeeze between the trees.
 

sstalder5

Turbo Monkey
Aug 20, 2008
1,942
20
Beech Mtn Definitely NOT Boulder
I like the setup! If anything I'd go with wide bars like JM was saying and hydro brakes. I have an 05-06 Scott Voltage that's my hardtail beater bike and it has that same fork on it. I'm not sure how slack it made your frame, but it makes mine fun as hell to ride on smooth downhills
 

jacksonpt

Turbo Monkey
Jul 22, 2002
6,791
59
Vestal, NY
I run BB7s, old Hope Mono Minis (THE XC brake of their day), and new XTs. The XTs are definitely the best, but not by enough to warrant the cost of new ones. BB7s, when dialed in, are all but as good as the XTs and the Hopes.
 

Da Peach

Outwitted by a rodent
Jul 2, 2002
13,683
4,912
North Van
I never rode BB7s, so I'll defer to those who have. I thought that all hydros would be more powerful than mechs...

But I would have said XTs.
 

proglife

Monkey
Apr 18, 2002
339
0
Annapolis, MD
I always assumed the big advantage to hydros was that you don't have to squeeze so hard to brake. Seems like it would give you more control. I have no problem with the BB7's stopping power. I've never thought "I wish these were stronger"
 

proglife

Monkey
Apr 18, 2002
339
0
Annapolis, MD
I could use some new riding clothes. I look like such a goober suited up.

I can't find a helmet for the life of me that fits my head. I have a huge head and need to wear deep crown hats. All helmets sit on top of my head instead of around my head.
 

Da Peach

Outwitted by a rodent
Jul 2, 2002
13,683
4,912
North Van
I find the Urge ones are pretty deep, but the only adjustability is by changing out the foam. The Kali one I had sat atop my noodle, not deep. I like the POC Trabec I've got now. Seems just right.

Most of my buddies seem to have Giros. Xen or Xar.
 

proglife

Monkey
Apr 18, 2002
339
0
Annapolis, MD
I find the Urge ones are pretty deep, but the only adjustability is by changing out the foam. The Kali one I had sat atop my noodle, not deep. I like the POC Trabec I've got now. Seems just right.

Most of my buddies seem to have Giros. Xen or Xar.
good to know, thanks

I've been thinking a dropper post could a nice upgrade. They sound so ****ty from the reviews, though.
 

jacksonpt

Turbo Monkey
Jul 22, 2002
6,791
59
Vestal, NY
I just talked to my LBS owner (good guy, not a salesman) about them... he says they are still highly unreliable. A good idea, but still have a ways to go for the average rider.
 

mandown

Poopdeck Repost
Jun 1, 2004
20,287
7,828
Transylvania 90210
I think you have a solution looking for a problem. If the bike rides well, don't tweak it. Other than a new bar, it sounds like everything is good. Though, I didn't see anything about pedals in the thread. I'd say points of contact (grip/bar, pedals, saddle) are the things you notice most. If your tires grip the way you like, you are set.

If you wanted to save weight and help yourself on the climbs, go with a new fork with a drop/lockout feature. Not sure what the current used market is on Pikes, but a few years ago, they were a great fork for the money. Good feel, and adjutable travel for various riding styles, and the nifty Maxle.
 

worship_mud

Turbo Monkey
Dec 9, 2006
1,464
2
you're actually good to go, as everybody said before. if you just want to spend some money, i'd get hydros nevertheless. no hussle with cables and all the disadvantages that come with them. and if you go shimano or magura you have easy-to-handle mineral oil. and you can get them really cheap.

i always liked the stiffee, great frame. and the z1 ain't too shabby either....
 

AngryMetalsmith

Business is good, thanks for asking
Jun 4, 2006
21,248
10,176
I have no idea where I am
How well maintained is the Bomber ? An oil change on those forks can make a huge difference in performance. I rode one for 12 years, changed the oil frequently but had to replace it because it needed too many hard to find parts. I went with a Rockshox Revelation dual position (adjustable travel) and have not been disappointed, very smooth and reliable. Just make sure the axle to crown height on the new fork is not longer than the bomber as to not alter the head angle and effect the handling of your Stiffie.


But most importantly, just do what ever it takes to get yourself amped up to ride again/more. And nothing does that quite like new parts or, gasp, a new bike.

Ride fast, take chances.
 

descente

Monkey
Jul 30, 2010
430
0
Sandy Eggo
i bet a new rear derailleur would help a lot. i always thought those older shimanos had the worst feeling ever. the shifters aren't bad, i just couldn't stand the derailleurs.

and new bars. carbon is amazing at softening everything out.