[BurlyShirley]

The first time around, I thought it was just bad luck. No Im beginning to wonder what my problem is.

I noticed the driveside of my XTR external BB was wiggling around as I was descending Avery Creek trail in Pisgah last weekend. I got my bike completely pulled apart tuesday, and all the inner threads were ripped off the driveside cup, hence the wiggling. The BB shell itself was not harmed as far as I can tell, but this has me wondering if others have had similar issues.

Have you?

Since my BBshell is a 68, Ive to use two spacers on one side, and one on the other. Problem is, on the side w/ two spacers, I feel like there really arent enough threads to be stable under truly heavy loads. If I take out a spacer, the plastic sheath inside the bb is simply too long and I can tighten down the bearings. So I have to have the spacers.

Is there anyone that makes cups where the threads go deeper? Also the "L" and the "R" on Shimano bearings are ridiculously confusing...I couldve simply threaded them in backward if that is possible.

Any thoughts?

 

[loco-gringo]

Race Face has quite a lot more threads on the drive side cup. I would recommend you look into them.

There was a guy on bikemojo that rips chains apart. Maybe you are the Jan.

I don't think you could have threaded both sides in backwards. If so, stop working on your own bikes.

 

[zahgurim]

Use the RaceFace Diabolus gold coloured cups instead of the XTR/Saint. Fully interchangeable.
They have a much deeper/longer thread interface.

 

[Tame Ape]

I have a 2-piece XT set up on one of my bikes and it threads in waaay less then the older 3-piece XT.

Like:
new XT
xxx

Old XT
xxxxx

Concerns me too.

 

[loco-gringo]

I have this on the wife's bike and assure you they are deep threads. It's the Diabolus. I am not sure if the Deus is threaded that deeply.

edit - zahgurim was saying it while I was getting the pic.

 

[BurlyShirley]

I will definitely go with the heavy duty ones. Glad that they thread in deeper after all. Right now I have an XTR on one side and a squeaky ass XT on the other. Thanks for the info.

 

[Tame Ape]

I have this on the wife's bike and assure you they are deep threads. It's the Diabolus. I am not sure if the Deus is threaded that deeply.

edit - zahgurim was saying it while I was getting the pic.

Is the cup width the same? Q-factor and all...

 

[BurlyShirley]

Well, let me ask a completely retarded question:

The L bearing is on the right side and the R is on the left side and they threaded in quite easily. How can this be? Could the guy who chased my BB have screwed up the threads? Or is Shimano ****ing wiht me?

 

[johnbryanpeters]

Is this the same person who was reluctant to face the bottom bracket housing prior to installing?

 

[BurlyShirley]

Is this the same person who was reluctant to face the bottom bracket housing prior to installing?

Reluctant? No. I just didnt do it. And that was on another bike. This time I did. Or rather, I had it done.

 

[w00dy]

Avoid the Race Face BBs. They use a different type of bearing which is designed for radial loads only. My advice is to scrap that inner sheath. Structurally, it does nothing, it just helps shield your bearings from schmegma that might be floating around in your frame.

 

[BurlyShirley]

Avoid the Race Face BBs. They use a different type of bearing which is designed for radial loads only. My advice is to scrap that inner sheath. Structurally, it does nothing, it just helps shield your bearings from schmegma that might be floating around in your frame.

Still I think I need the spacers to create enough distance on the spindle so it doesnt slide back and forth.

 

[loco-gringo]

If they threaded right in, they could be screwed up. You'd have to work pretty hard at backwards threading the shell when chasing the threads. It could be done, but I can't believe the person dumb enough to do it could actually get themselves to work.

Can you take close up pics of the inside of the shell? Cleaned out.

edit - the Q-factor is the same on them all. You wouldn't be able to tighten the spindle if they were not. There could be some tolerance, but not much.

 

[BurlyShirley]

If they threaded right in, they could be screwed up. You'd have to work pretty hard at backwards threading the shell when chasing the threads. It could be done, but I can't believe the person dumb enough to do it could actually get themselves to work.

Can you take close up pics of the inside of the shell? Cleaned out.

Er, yeah, give me a little while though. This sucks. If my frame is ****ed I dont know what Ill do. Kill someone?

 

[loco-gringo]

Still I think I need the spacers to create enough distance on the spindle so it doesnt slide back and forth.

Correct. That sleeve also keeps things spaced so they don't bind. I tried some without that because I didn't have the right spacers and it just didn't work. I go the spacers and it was fine. I suspect the instructions would mention you could leave it out if it didn't matter. There would be better ways to seal that up.

 

[Sorgie]

Well, let me ask a completely retarded question:

The L bearing is on the right side and the R is on the left side and they threaded in quite easily. How can this be? Could the guy who chased my BB have screwed up the threads? Or is Shimano ****ing wiht me?

Okay, I have a retarded question for you. Are you sure your looking at Left and Right from the seated riding position and not from the front of the bike looking at the seat? My left or your left?:biggrin:

 

[loco-gringo]

Er, yeah, give me a little while though. This sucks. If my frame is ****ed I dont know what Ill do. Kill someone?

If they threaded that backwards and the shop won't make it right, blow a gasket, yes.

Is this the shop that you worked at? Did you leave on good terms? It is a steel frame, so a new shell could be welded on by a good builder, but it's likely not worth the expense.

I would go with them being right before I worried. I will look for some old cups I could mail you to try to thread them in to see what's up. I wouldn't think they are backwards though. That's a big screw up that would seem pretty noticable.

 

[loco-gringo]

Okay, I have a retarded question for you. Are you sure your looking at Left and Right from the seated riding position and not from the front of the bike looking at the seat? My left or your left?:biggrin:

I'm pretty certain that Shimano would agree that left is non-drive side.

 

[OGRipper]

WTF?

What is confusing about labeling each cup with an R or L and giving you an arrow showing the direction to thread? What else should they do - come to your house and install it for you?

You know the R and L are from the rider's point of view right? As in, "R" = drive side?

I've blown the bearings but have not yet sheared a cup from the frame. Check out the race face - you've got bigger problems than relative bearing life.

Edit: Beat me to it.

 

[Echo]

I haven't fiddled with a BB thread chaser in quite some time, but I seem to remember the Park version went to some lengths to ensure that users would not ruin a frame by doing it backwards.

 

[loco-gringo]

I haven't fiddled with a BB thread chaser in quite some time, but I seem to remember the Park version went to some lengths to ensure that users would not ruin a frame by doing it backwards.

I haven't either, but are you saying it's pretty idiot proof? I can imagine it would take great lengths to do it backwards.

 

[Sorgie]

I'm pretty certain that Shimano would agree that left is non-drive side.

Well duh . What I'm saying is that if he is looking at the bike from a different perspective then the R cup will be on his left.

 

[Echo]

I haven't either, but are you saying it's pretty idiot proof?

That is what I'm saying.

 

[OGRipper]

I haven't fiddled with a BB thread chaser in quite some time, but I seem to remember the Park version went to some lengths to ensure that users would not ruin a frame by doing it backwards.

Well, you could ruin a bb pretty easily. It would be much harder to come away with clean, back-asswards threads to the point that someone could actually reverse the cups and get 'em in like nothing was wrong.

 

[sanjuro]

Raceface are no winners either. There were some big issues with the bearings, and my friends had some issues which they blamed on the plastic spacers warping and affecting how much you could tighten the bb.

 

[loco-gringo]

Raceface are no winners either. There were some big issues with the bearings, and my friends had some issues which they blamed on the plastic spacers warping and affecting how much you could tighten the bb.

My Diabolus BB came with plastic spacers, but I used some alloy from an FSA. You just need 2.5mm spacers, which are easy to come by. While I agree that they shouldn't be plastic, that is pretty minimal. I haven't swapped bearings either, but aren't they replaceable? Again, you shouldn't have to, but there is some value in a deep BB cup.

 

[BurlyShirley]

I think my BB is ruined.

 

[loco-gringo]

I think my BB is ruined.

BB or BB shell?

 

[BurlyShirley]

BB or BB shell?

The shell itself. And its probably my fault.

 

[loco-gringo]

The shell itself. And its probably my fault.

Why? What'd you do?

If that's the case, that sucks.

 

[BurlyShirley]

Why? What'd you do?

If that's the case, that sucks.

I dont know, but the non drive threads are eating the threads of the non drive bearing, and its not going to go in. WTF? yes, they were installled backward due to my own haste, but that is the way they threaded in. I put no undue force, I just didnt pay attention.

 

[N8 v2.0]

I dont know, but the non drive threads are eating the threads of the non drive bearing, and its not going to go in. WTF? yes, they were installled backward due to my own haste, but that is the way they threaded in. I put no undue force, I just didnt pay attention.

0uch!

 

[loco-gringo]

I dont know, but the non drive threads are eating the threads of the non drive bearing, and its not going to go in. WTF? yes, they were installled backward due to my own haste, but that is the way they threaded in. I put no undue force, I just didnt pay attention.

I'm still not sure that you would have ruined the threads in a steel frame. The cups should be softer. It should be possible to chase the shell and be ok.

 

[BurlyShirley]

I'm still not sure that you would have ruined the threads in a steel frame. The cups should be softer. It should be possible to chase the shell and be ok.

Im going to take it to a shop and have them rechase the shell and see if it helps. Hopefully they can fix it.

 

[Wumpus]

I dont know, but the non drive threads are eating the threads of the non drive bearing, and its not going to go in. WTF? yes, they were installled backward due to my own haste, but that is the way they threaded in. I put no undue force, I just didnt pay attention.

Maybe Cove welded the BB on backwards.

 

[OGRipper]

I still don't see how you could actually get them in backwards without forcing them. But yeah if it's steel and you really didn't force it you should be ok.

Sucks. I feel for you. Hack.

:biggrin:

 

[johnbryanpeters]

Good luck, BS!

 

[BurlyShirley]

Maybe Cove welded the BB on backwards.

I hadnt thought of that, but it makes some sense.

 

[OGRipper]

I hadnt thought of that, but it makes some sense.

There's a first for everything...if that's it, those guys need to lay off the Dankouver. Keep us posted please.

 

[BurlyShirley]

Its fixed. Had them rechase the threads. Mech said the first time it was done, something crossthreaded and it was messed up. Fixed now. Woohoo!