[-dustin]

Here's a picture of my road bike with the fit pretty well dialed:

Here's a shot of the measurements:

56 frame, 110mm stem.

This is a picture of my mtn bike:

Notice the setback post, slammed saddle, and 120mm x 0* stem (frame size large). Last bike was a medium Pivot Mach 4 with a straight post and 110 x 0* stem.

I don't know fit all that well, but what the hell...why do I feel so jacked on the new mtb? I would assume contact points should be the same between different types of bikes, yes? Cross bike fits good, also...I just don't have a picture of it. Same saddle height, setback, and reach as the BH, bars are just higher.

All bikes have 172.5 cranks.

 

[chillindrdude]

uh...its a mountain bike, not a road bike. your body positioning is going to be much less static than riding a road bike. cockpit is gonna be short for alittle more upright position for aggressive turning and muscling the bike on technical terrain. not to mention that geometry will change alittle based on where you are in your suspension travel.

in short, it's not gonna feel like your road bike, because its not a road bike and you're not riding on the road. unless of course, you're one of them roadie crossovers that ride a mountain bike on a smooth, non-technical dirt path and calls it XC.

 

[ire]

uh...its a mountain bike, not a road bike. your body positioning is going to be much less static than riding a road bike. cockpit is gonna be short for alittle more upright position for aggressive turning and muscling the bike on technical terrain. not to mention that geometry will change alittle based on where you are in your suspension travel.

I race elite in both XC and CX. I keep the position on my bikes very similar, especially when it comes to saddle height/setback. The reach on my road/cx/mtb bikes are very similar as well. When you swap bikes you don't want a drastic change in position because your body can have trouble adapting.

 

[GravityFreakTJ]

unless of course, you're one of them roadie crossovers that ride a mountain bike on a smooth, non-technical dirt path and calls it XC.

I'm a Cat2 roadie that races xc as well, and like Ire I have pretty much the same set up on both bikes. Makes hopin on the Mtb easier for me. As for the smooth trails yeah no. I raced downhill before becoming a roadie and race some tech trails with the roadie setup.

 

[Wumpus]

I partial agree, but my saddle is lower on the mountain bike than the roadie. It feels very awkward to have the same leg extension.







*Actually I have never measured either of them to see.

 

[Daver]

How tall are you? I'm just curious.

You run the same saddle height as me, shorter stem, but the same size bike.

FWIW, I run the same saddle height on my roadie's as I do my trail bike. Even my DH bike is only 5cm lower. I don't think there's any benefit running a lower saddle height on a mountain bike, and even for DH a high saddle makes the bike a lot easier to leverage.

The effective top tube on MTB's always seem longer than that of road bikes, but the front ends are taller giving you a lesser drop and effectively a shorter reach. Wider bars have a similar effect too.

 

[-dustin]

5"11", 35" inseam.

 

[GravityFreakTJ]

Dustin, I'm 6ft1 with a 36 inseam and raced a large Taurine last season. I ended up running a 130 negative drop stem to get comfy on it.

 

[GravityFreakTJ]

BTW , how does your knee over spindle work out with the setback post ?

 

[-dustin]

Right now it's close enough.

Raining tonight, so I might spend tomorrow morning making some changes to the bike. Won't be able to ride it again until Friday, at the earliest.

 

[chillindrdude]

i apologize if i offended anyone. not a smart post, as i was venting some frustrations about the state of trail-building progression here in my neck of the woods.

 

[SuspectDevice]

Good choice on the 650b's.

You are going to be using this thing mostly for longer, less technical rides, right?

If so that position will be fine. For traditional XC race bike fits, you'll find that the same reach you have on your road bike will be pretty good. A longer stem/narrower bars setup sort of acts as a steering damper. You can get out of the saddle and wail without the front end coming up or wondering. It also feels a bunch more responsive in tight/twisty/smooth singletrack, as your center of mass changes, and you can do the old familiar drop knee/countersteer setup in the twisties.

A more modern/suited to rougher and more technical trails/ fit will have bars that are about 80-100mm wider, and a stem that is 1-2 cm shorter for close to same effective reach, but more stability. You might want to try a negative rise 11cm stem with some 660mm rise bars if you are looking for more stabilty.


FWIW, I run the same reach and drop on one of my xc race bikes (with 610 flat bars) as my road bike (saddle about a cm lower to compensate for the increased stack height of the pedals and the 2.5mm longer cranks), and a cm shorter slammed- 17 stem and 710 20mm rise bars on the other one.

Both frames are identical, and I designed them to be classic old-school xc race machines.