[CBJ]

After putting in new pads I can not get the lever close enough to the handle bar. I have adjusted them as much in as the adjuster on the lever allows but they need to come in more. The used to get in as close as possible so I find it strange it has changed. I have not done anything to the breaks besides try to move out the calibers as much as possible before I installed the pads. Actually it was really difficult just to get in the new pads.

What do I need to do to get the lever to get even closer?

 

[DIRTWRKS]

After putting in new pads I can not get the lever close enough to the handle bar. I have adjusted them as much in as the adjuster on the lever allows but they need to come in more. The used to get in as close as possible so I find it strange it has changed. I have not done anything to the breaks besides try to move out the calibers as much as possible before I installed the pads. Actually it was really difficult just to get in the new pads.

What do I need to do to get the lever to get even closer?

Are they Formula pads ? I have seen some aftermarket pads that are thicker and could cause this. Otherwise just let some fluid out and try to push the pads/ cylinders in a little more.

 

[marshalolson]

you need to push the pistons in the caliper out.

 

[CBJ]

Original pads.

Already tried to push the pistons out as much as possible.

 

[blender]

just let some fluid out of the system, it's a bit overfilled
open the caliper bleed port, "hug" it with a rag and squeeze the lever gently, letting some fluid out of the system.
i had to do that with my Formulas all the time, to get the lever position perfect

the only catch, is that later when the pads wear in, you'll have to "top off" the system to keep the lever position where you want it.
not a big deal if you're used to bleeding brakes

 

[SCARY]

I was looking at the formulas.I've read that they actually have alot of lever movement compared to other brakes.I actually like the pads to contact immediately and the lever out as far as possible.Are these the wrong brakes for that?I am a weight weenie and that is my motivation.There,I said it.

 

[miuan]

I have Stroker Ryde on my commuter bike and that brake has a very far and solid bite point, not allowing the lever to come closer to the bar. Unlike my Forumula RX, which is a bit spongier. I can only imagine that getting the Grams may fit your bill really nice.

 

[contactjt]

I was looking at the formulas.I've read that they actually have alot of lever movement compared to other brakes.I actually like the pads to contact immediately and the lever out as far as possible.Are these the wrong brakes for that?I am a weight weenie and that is my motivation.There,I said it.

My MY10 brakes engage very early in stroke and are much firmer feeling than my Saints.

I'd actually prefer them to have more travel/stroke.

I wouldn't worry about them feeling spongy if you if there are no issues with them and you can bleed them well.

JT

 

[toodles]

Bend the lever with a couple of spanners.

 

[SCARY]

My MY10 brakes engage very early in stroke and are much firmer feeling than my Saints.

I'd actually prefer them to have more travel/stroke.

I wouldn't worry about them feeling spongy if you if there are no issues with them and you can bleed them well.

JT

MY10 brakes?did you mean my 2010 brakes?

 

[kickstand]

MY10 brakes?did you mean my 2010 brakes?

My MY2010 = His Model Year 2010

 

[CBJ]

Scary my breaks are the older version with the contact point adjuster so you can get them to engage like I have never tried before. I think the current lever does not have the contact point adjuster but the 2011 will have it.

 

[SCARY]

Thanks