[neversummersnow]

Hey all, I want to get my 40 working as smooth as possible. To change the oil that keeps things running smoothly (NOT the damping/cart. oil) is there anything I need to know?

How much oil goes in each leg for lubrication? What weight? Any tricks?

 

[dcamp29]

jeff- just pour a random amount of whatever weight oil you have in each leg. it works for my boxxer.

 

[Red Bull]

for some reason i feel like the 40 needs super specific oil heights.

 

[TheInedibleHulk]

I'm with DC.




Actually you have to be super precise with the 40, it's kinda lame. You probably should have bought a boxxer for 50 bucks off ridemonkey.

 

[Bicyclist]

jeff- just pour a random amount of whatever weight oil you have in each leg. it works for my boxxer.

It may work, but does it work well?

 

[buildyourown]

Read the manual. It's available in a downloadable pdf.
20cc in each leg if I'm remembering right.

You need a good selection of deep well sockets and 6 point wrenches to do it right. Don't attempt it if you're a hack.

Also, use care not to disturb the "crush washers." Fox says you should replace with new at each oil change, but if you're carefull, you can reuse them.

 

[dhkid]

if you are lazy just take off the top caps, then you can drain the oil. both sides need 40ccs of 7wt oil. but what i recomend is that you take the whole fork apart so that you can excess the seals, clean them well and your fork will be smother then ever.
if you wanna take it apart, you need a size 10 and 15 socket, and a size 2 allen key to take off the lsc and hsc knobs. becarefull as they are tight, make sure you insert the allen key all the way.once the knobs are off, you can open the bottom nuts, make sure they are pass the crush washers so that can take them off once the plunger is disangaged(its free to rotate then) after both sides are disangeged, the oil will come out. then you can slide the lowers off the stantions. then you can open the top cap(opening the top caps first with makes opening the bottom nuts very hard.) then on the danmping side there will be the whole cart, and the spring side will have the spacers, spring and negative spring. its pretty darn simple. give the seals a good clean and becarefull with the foam ring. putting it back should be straight forward.
edit: just reuse the crush washers.

 

[bikenweed]

40cc of 7 wt. oil in each leg is correct, and it is NOT a very specific measurement. Chris at Mojo Suspension, the UK distributor, told me that since the oil is only for stanchion lube, a precise amount is not really necessary. If you use 50cc in each leg the fork will behave normally and not wear any faster or slower than if you use 40cc.

The directions in the manual, available off Fox Racing Shox.com, are really easy to follow. The 40RC2 is a very, very simple fork, and is simple to service.

To remove the lowers:
Left side needs a 10mm socket/box end wrench to unscrew the little black nut. The crush washer is a hard, plastic piece that fits between the lower and the nut. I've been re-using the same one for 2 years now. Once that nut comes off, use a screw driver to pop the aluminium rod inside the fork, so that the oil can drain out. Then use the 32mm socket to take off the top cap. Boom, left side is disassembled.

For the right side, remove the two compression adjusters, then use a 15mm socket to unscrew the black nut. It also has a crush washer, but you can most likely re-use it. Let the oil out, take off the top cap with the 32mm wrench, and pull them lowers off.

I never realized how great of a fork this thing is until I took it apart. Blindingly simple, very reliable, easy to change the travel, light, stiff, and plush. MMMM buttah.

 

[TheInedibleHulk]

I didnt read the original post very well. Bath oil is not precise, damping oil is.

 

[dhkid]

just wondering, has anyone opened the damping cart yet? i am tempted to do so my self. looks pretty straight forward. clamp the boots vavle and open the bottom nut. just not sure whether it would go back together well.

 

[BBBSwan05]

hey guys sorry for the old thread but i searched and this is what i got.

i was just wondering if 10wt oil would work in the legs, i dont have any 7wt and was wondering if there would be a big diff or if i should just go out and get some 7wt?

thanks in advance

 

[DIRTWRKS]

hey guys sorry for the old thread but i searched and this is what i got.

i was just wondering if 10wt oil would work in the legs, i dont have any 7wt and was wondering if there would be a big diff or if i should just go out and get some 7wt?

thanks in advance

Since the oil is only being used for lubrication in this application, no need for suspension oil. Most of the tuners around here including the local Fox distributors use synthetic motor oil like a 5W-30.

 

[dilzy]

hey guys sorry for the old thread but i searched and this is what i got.

i was just wondering if 10wt oil would work in the legs, i dont have any 7wt and was wondering if there would be a big diff or if i should just go out and get some 7wt?

thanks in advance

10w is fine mate, it's what I used in my 36 and 40. I actually used a 10w40 car synthetic. It's a better oil for the application than suspension fluid that is designed to resist foaming.

 

[BBBSwan05]

thanks for the help guys,

 

[nenjarickard]

The 2009 F40 uses 50cc in each leg.
Pretty sure i remember it right and that we got the info from a service manual, atleast it works like a charm.

 

[buckoW]

just wondering, has anyone opened the damping cart yet? i am tempted to do so my self. looks pretty straight forward. clamp the boots vavle and open the bottom nut. just not sure whether it would go back together well.

I do. You seem like you are plenty mechanically inclined. Go for it. It is pretty simple.

 

[EM-EFER]

Using consistent oil height is very important in getting the fork to ride the same way all the time.

With different oil height it affects the way the suspension goes through travel.