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Fox 40 Stantion

Biffff

Biffff

Monkey
Jan 10, 2006
913
0
I gave both stantions on my new 40 some raping on the rocks of Mont Tremblant during practice. The srcratches went through the anno but they aren't deep. I've allready given them a light rubbing with a very fine grit foam sanding thiny. They are now barely noticeable to the touch, and the fork worked perfectly for the reast of the weeknd.
I know some people try filling the scratches with clear nail pollish, but is this necessary if the scratches are smoothed??

I know this has been brought up before............but does anybody know if the new Kashima Stantions will be available as replacement parts anytime??

Does anybody know what the cost of a new stantion is.....regular anno? If it's reasonable I'll likely get some new ones at the end of the season.

Thanks
 
W

wiscodh

Monkey
Jun 21, 2007
833
121
303
Biffff said:
I gave both stantions on my new 40 some raping on the rocks of Mont Tremblant during practice. The srcratches went through the anno but they aren't deep. I've allready given them a light rubbing with a very fine grit foam sanding thiny. They are now barely noticeable to the touch, and the fork worked perfectly for the reast of the weeknd.
I know some people try filling the scratches with clear nail pollish, but is this necessary if the scratches are smoothed??

I know this has been brought up before............but does anybody know if the new Kashima Stantions will be available as replacement parts anytime??

Does anybody know what the cost of a new stantion is.....regular anno? If it's reasonable I'll likely get some new ones at the end of the season.

Thanks
Click to expand...
http://www.go-ride.com/SPD/fox-racing-shox--169D0000-1137786500.jsp
132 clams

mine was fine when i sanded the scratch smooth 2years ago. You just dont want it to wear out the seals. Rotate your stans everyonce and awhile.
 
Dawson308

Dawson308

Chimp
May 14, 2008
46
0
Roseville, CA
Biffff said:
I gave both stantions on my new 40 some raping on the rocks of Mont Tremblant during practice. The srcratches went through the anno but they aren't deep. I've allready given them a light rubbing with a very fine grit foam sanding thiny. They are now barely noticeable to the touch, and the fork worked perfectly for the reast of the weeknd.
I know some people try filling the scratches with clear nail pollish, but is this necessary if the scratches are smoothed??

I know this has been brought up before............but does anybody know if the new Kashima Stantions will be available as replacement parts anytime??

Does anybody know what the cost of a new stantion is.....regular anno? If it's reasonable I'll likely get some new ones at the end of the season.

Thanks
Click to expand...
I just did the same thing to my almost new 40 this last weekend. I sanded down the scratches and I applied JB weld last night. Tonight I am going to sand it down and I will see how it turns out. My concern with just sanding down the scratches and not filling them is that even if they don't leak oil, there is much more chance for dirt getting carried down past the seals into the lowers where it would wear on the bushings/other internals. As much as it pains me to have a tainted stanchion, I am going to turn it to the inside so I don't have to look at it and run it. If you did it once there is a good chance it will happen again sometime. I'll try to post pictures of my finished result after I am done.
 
Biffff

Biffff

Monkey
Jan 10, 2006
913
0
Dawson308 said:
I just did the same thing to my almost new 40 this last weekend. I sanded down the scratches and I applied JB weld last night. Tonight I am going to sand it down and I will see how it turns out. My concern with just sanding down the scratches and not filling them is that even if they don't leak oil, there is much more chance for dirt getting carried down past the seals into the lowers where it would wear on the bushings/other internals. As much as it pains me to have a tainted stanchion, I am going to turn it to the inside so I don't have to look at it and run it. If you did it once there is a good chance it will happen again sometime. I'll try to post pictures of my finished result after I am done.
Click to expand...
I never thought of the JB weld...
I rotated the stantions too.
This was my first race at Mont Tremblant, and also the first time I've scrared stantions in 10 years of riding and 5 years of racing. Tremblant has some sections with crazy amounts of rock.....if you go down your gonna scratch something.
Thanks for the insight guys
 
spocomptonrider

spocomptonrider

sportin' the CROCS
Nov 30, 2007
1,412
118
spokanistan
I think you may be outta luck with the Kashima stanchions, Fox inverted the FIT cartridge in the 40 for 2011. I would imagine this changed the way the cartridge attaches.
 
W

WBC

Monkey
Aug 8, 2003
578
1
PNW
spocomptonrider said:
I think you may be outta luck with the Kashima stanchions, Fox inverted the FIT cartridge in the 40 for 2011. I would imagine this changed the way the cartridge attaches.
Click to expand...
The cartridge only attaches at the top of the stanchion and at the bottom of the lowers. I don't see any reason to change the threading of the top caps, nor the circlip spec in the bottom of the spring stanchion. I would even doubt they changed the size of the holes in the lowers, and instead just made the rebound size large enough to fill the larger hole left by the compression adjusters. They may have changed bushings, but I doubt any more than that.

They are still producing OEM 40's with the old stanchions, and I wouldn't think they would want to have to re-tool if they didn't have to, and there is certainly no reason to as the cartridge only attaches to the top of the stanchion via the top-cap.

I am reasonably confident people will be able to upgrade their old 40's with the slick, new Kashima stanchions.
 
spocomptonrider

spocomptonrider

sportin' the CROCS
Nov 30, 2007
1,412
118
spokanistan
WBC said:
The cartridge only attaches at the top of the stanchion and at the bottom of the lowers. I don't see any reason to change the threading of the top caps, nor the circlip spec in the bottom of the spring stanchion. I would even doubt they changed the size of the holes in the lowers, and instead just made the rebound size large enough to fill the larger hole left by the compression adjusters. They may have changed bushings, but I doubt any more than that.

They are still producing OEM 40's with the old stanchions, and I wouldn't think they would want to have to re-tool if they didn't have to, and there is certainly no reason to as the cartridge only attaches to the top of the stanchion via the top-cap.

I am reasonably confident people will be able to upgrade their old 40's with the slick, new Kashima stanchions.
Click to expand...
Cool, I didn't actually know just making broad sweeping internet assumptions based purely on e-spec and pictures haha.
 
Dawson308

Dawson308

Chimp
May 14, 2008
46
0
Roseville, CA
I just got done sanding down the JB weld and it did a very nice job. You can hardly feel anything with your fingers. The only thing you can slightly feel is that the JB weld is not quite as slick as the coating on the stanchion.

I got a bucket of water and dipped my strip of 2000 grit sand paper in it every minute or so. The excess JB weld slowly dissolves away as you wet sand it with no damage to the coating on the stanchion. You are left with the scratches filled with JB weld that is sanded flush with the rest of the stanchion. I wrapped the strip around the contour of the stanchion so to form the jb weld filler to the exact shape of the tube as I was sanding. The whole process took me an hour or two, go slow and be patient. Use 2000 grit sand paper and it will not damage the coating on the stanchion. I'll try to post some pics if I get time.
 
T

ThePriceSeliger

Mushhead
Mar 31, 2004
4,860
0
Denver, Colorado
WBC said:
The cartridge only attaches at the top of the stanchion and at the bottom of the lowers. I don't see any reason to change the threading of the top caps, nor the circlip spec in the bottom of the spring stanchion. I would even doubt they changed the size of the holes in the lowers, and instead just made the rebound size large enough to fill the larger hole left by the compression adjusters. They may have changed bushings, but I doubt any more than that.

They are still producing OEM 40's with the old stanchions, and I wouldn't think they would want to have to re-tool if they didn't have to, and there is certainly no reason to as the cartridge only attaches to the top of the stanchion via the top-cap.

I am reasonably confident people will be able to upgrade their old 40's with the slick, new Kashima stanchions.
Click to expand...
You're correct. I spoke to Fox the other day, and from a short conversation this is what I understand, I think. The Kashima coated 2011 40's are only going out OEM right now. 2011 40's with the inverted FIT cartridge with hard-anno are available, but I believe a limited supply are shipping.

I'm betting in the next 4-6 months, the Kashima stantions will be readily available.
 
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T

ThePriceSeliger

Mushhead
Mar 31, 2004
4,860
0
Denver, Colorado
Dawson308 said:
I just got done sanding down the JB weld and it did a very nice job. You can hardly feel anything with your fingers. The only thing you can slightly feel is that the JB weld is not quite as slick as the coating on the stanchion.

I got a bucket of water and dipped my strip of 2000 grit sand paper in it every minute or so. The excess JB weld slowly dissolves away as you wet sand it with no damage to the coating on the stanchion. You are left with the scratches filled with JB weld that is sanded flush with the rest of the stanchion. I wrapped the strip around the contour of the stanchion so to form the jb weld filler to the exact shape of the tube as I was sanding. The whole process took me an hour or two, go slow and be patient. Use 2000 grit sand paper and it will not damage the coating on the stanchion. I'll try to post some pics if I get time.
Click to expand...
Filling most scratches in stantions is temporary. I've never used JB weld, but it's not going to wear the seals correctly. I'd imagine it will create a bit of extra friction, and eventually wear away at your bushings.

If I have to advise anyone in doing such, use clear nail polish. Keep it really clean, and reapply every so often. If the scratch is bad enough, stantions are not too expensive, and will help maintain the longevity of your fork.
 
I

illnotsick

Monkey
Jun 3, 2009
257
0
What's the price of nail polish + a bushing replacement in 3yrs compared to stanchion replacement now? If you're planning on replacing the fork within that time, go for the nail polish fix.
 
frorider

frorider

Monkey
Jul 21, 2004
971
20
cali
i've used jb weld and ultra fine grit wet sandpaper and had great results...super smooth, and has lasted for years w/o noticeably affecting seal life.
 
IH8Rice

IH8Rice

I'm Mr. Negative! I Fail!
Aug 2, 2008
24,524
494
Im over here now
Biffff

Biffff

Monkey
Jan 10, 2006
913
0
I'm also noticing the lack of damponing in the first half inch of travel of my 40. By my calculations I have about 12 hours of riding on the fork. I was planning on cleaning the seals and replacing the oil in the legs in a month, and then getting the damper serviced at the end of the summer. Is this a sign that the damper needs service???? Should I do it before the recommended 30 hours?
 
Racebike

Racebike

Monkey
Jul 28, 2008
463
4
Sweden
So your rebound is not working on the outermost part (top out)?

If so, it's a common problem with the 40's, damper needs a service, or rather a "bleed".

If you are unlucky, the rubber bladder at the bottom has broken/dislodged and may need replacement.
 
Biffff

Biffff

Monkey
Jan 10, 2006
913
0
Racebike said:
So your rebound is not working on the outermost part (top out)?

If so, it's a common problem with the 40's, damper needs a service, or rather a "bleed".

If you are unlucky, the rubber bladder at the bottom has broken/dislodged and may need replacement.
Click to expand...

Sounds about right. The fork still feels good on the trail, but definetly has play in the 1st half inch of travel. Hopefully my LBS can do the service as I have a race in a week, and another 2 weeks after that.
 
D

Djmp3

Chimp
Nov 22, 2009
46
0
Vermont
hey dudes. i had the same problem. i sanded with the finest grit there was, carefully. i filled the scratches with clear nail polish, waited overnight, and very carefully sanded the excess off. you can feel the deformation when yuou run your finger over it. it was a deep gash, but is almost flush.

i recommend using a little clear nail polish.
 
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