I love stiff DJ forks that hardly use suspension unless you mess up, I practially run mine locked out. But if you are gonna run a fork that works so poorly and doesnt allow any travel to actually move, why not just get a rigid, they are cheaper, lighter and have more travel than that thing does.it will be amazing. You can't go wrong with their DJ line, they are simple, stiff, short, light. Should be perfect.
Yeah, but otherwise it would have marzocchi like a2c height if not more.never could get over the fork lowers that actually go lower than the axle either... I know, a worthless pet peeve, but it just bothers me.
And what is the difference in A2C between Manitou and Marzocchi DJ forks with equal travel?Yeah, but otherwise it would have marzocchi like a2c height if not more.
With my Argyle in one hand and the Gold Label in the other. Gold Label is alot lighter with the uncut steer tube.
I don't really follow where you were going with all of that or why 10mm sounds like a foot to you. The length a fork chassis is based on several things: the drop/width/offset of the crown to clear downtubes, the beefiness of the arch, stantion length vs desired bushing overlap and of course like you said where they put the axle on the legs which will affect tire clearance at the crown,. ALL those add up to a 10mm difference in this case. No big deal, 10mm is the difference in height between different tires choices. Factor in frame geo and the differences really get blurred. To me that wouldn't stop me from riding the fork I want from the company I want to support. Inches yes, less than 0.4" no.A 80mm DJ series fork has a 465mm a2c height, a 80mm gold label is at 455mm. So at equal travel 10mm less. Now look at the pic, and place the dropouts at the same place the ones on a DJ series are, see where I'm going?
I think it has to do with the reverse arch clearing the downtube on compression, the stanchions have got to be longer so the a2c is inherently longer, they remedied it by moving the dropouts up on the fork leg.
True. The AC on my Gold Label is 460 for the 80mm travel version. The AC on my Argyle is currently unknown because we tore it apart and shortened it, and put a screw driver handle inside as the preload spacer. Holding them side by side, the AC is going to be a few mm difference. That's fine, I can just move my handlebars down a spacer or two.I don't really follow where you were going with all of that or why 10mm sounds like a foot to you. The length a fork chassis is based on several things: the drop/width/offset of the crown to clear downtubes, the beefiness of the arch, stantion length vs desired bushing overlap and of course like you said where they put the axle on the legs which will affect tire clearance at the crown,. ALL those add up to a 10mm difference in this case. No big deal, 10mm is the difference in height between different tires choices. Factor in frame geo and the differences really get blurred. To me that wouldn't stop me from riding the fork I want from the company I want to support. Inches yes, less than 0.4" no.
OMG, screwdriver handle lol. Nice.The AC on my Argyle is currently unknown because we tore it apart and shortened it, and put a screw driver handle inside as the preload spacer.
new atomlab fork...OMG, screwdriver handle lol. Nice.
I'm really wondering with how short travel is cool again when we will see the return of a simple elastomer fork?! With ~2" of travel for street/park/trails you really don't need much damping and could save a ton of weight by gutting a fork of it's oil, dampers, springs and just throw some old-fashioned bubblegum (elastomers) in there! Tons of cheap and easy combinations to get the feel you want. Makes sense to me!
I'm not quite sure I'm picking up exactly what you're arguing for or against? Is it some american patriotic thing where you reject the metric system in favor of english standard?I don't really follow where you were going with all of that or why 10mm sounds like a foot to you. The length a fork chassis is based on several things: the drop/width/offset of the crown to clear downtubes, the beefiness of the arch, stantion length vs desired bushing overlap and of course like you said where they put the axle on the legs which will affect tire clearance at the crown,. ALL those add up to a 10mm difference in this case. No big deal, 10mm is the difference in height between different tires choices. Factor in frame geo and the differences really get blurred. To me that wouldn't stop me from riding the fork I want from the company I want to support. Inches yes, less than 0.4" no.
THAT elastomer technology is also what, 10-15 years old now? I had to scrape the gooey jelly elastomers out of a few old forks back in the shop but you're right I only rode one hard myself. It worked great for DJ. I'm thinking, as the fork chassis technology has improved so much why can't elastomer technology match it? How often does someone say "my rear shock rocks but the bottom out bumper is shot"? Never, right? And that's at ~3:1 ratio. A fork at 1:1 (and with two legs, two stacks) has got to be a lot easier on elastomers. I see a fork with 2-3 elastomers of different durometer stacked up to do what you ask of your fork. You want soft initially for trails and stiff against bottom out cool, you want it so stiff it only moves when you mess up ok, your choice. Again, this is only for these super short street/park forks. My Trail/FR forks will remain coil/oil with real dampers. I can't argue the temperature argument - ya got me there!I kinda agree with Tony, but I'm also strongly opposed to going back to elastomers. Tony, I think you maybe missed that phase and lucked out with good forks that had springs. Elastomers suck, they compress over time and turn essentially rigid, not to mention they are effected by temperature changes. A good spring always is a good idea.
I was actually just thinking about fork progression the other day when I lowered mine. ...The best part is my Pike, with tons of more technology, is stiffer, better tuned, and lighter!