No linseed oil?
It is out of frame, I am using anti seize. Thanks, will have some beer and relax while working on it!spoke prep is good, I use anti-seize.
also nice stand!
Kind of looks like one of these:what stand is that anyway? I see what looks like a Park sticker on it, but I can't find anything like it online.
'Watch' brand appears to be 'Neuter'.thanks. I'll take mine with watch.
View attachment 173244
Kind of looks like one of these:
134.71C$ 49% OFF|Professional Bicycle Wheel Truing Stand Adjustment Rims With Dial Indicator Gauge Set Mtb Road Bike Wheel Repair Tool - Bicycle Repair Tools - AliExpress
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Linseed oil, spoke prep, anti seize, just use somethingspoke prep is good, I use anti-seize.
also nice stand!
seems about rightIt took 3 beers to get to my current point, minor lateral/radial truing and checking tensions.
That is a great recommendation, I was wondering about that. Do you get in a easy ride with the tube in tire before the final touches?The biggest step for me with modern rims is to install a tube+tire then do final truing. I get a massive drop in tension when I do that and then I account for it and wheel is solid thereafter, no adjustments necessary.
No, haven’t found that necessary, but I do find the loss of tension so dramatic I wouldn’t feel safe riding it anyway.That is a great recommendation, I was wondering about that. Do you get in a easy ride with the tube in tire before the final touches?
TWSSLinseed oil, spoke prep, anti seize, just use something
I am going to have to buy a 29er tube, I have not bought one since the switch from 27.5 haha!No, haven’t found that necessary, but I do find the loss of tension so dramatic I wouldn’t feel safe riding it anyway.
Not if you have a 27.5 tube, that will work just fine. Just stretch it around and make sure it isn't pinched.I am going to have to buy a 29er tube, I have not bought one since the switch from 27.5 haha!
Almost any kind is good, anti-seize is good, linseed oil is good (but dries too fast for me sometimes), etc. "Spoke prep" dries to fast for me and do not use lock-tite shit, you want to be able to turn these in the future if needed. I do a little dab of anti-seize or grease on the nipple head so it will rotate easily in the rim (and get a little more protection) and then on the nipple/threads interface with the spoke.That's an aluminum rim, yeah?
Since wheelbuilding peeps are here I'll ask--is grease (of whatever/any kind) bad for carbon rims at the nipple interface?
I have become a fan of using washers for carbon rims. A dab of light oil between the nipple and washer doesn't hurt.That's an aluminum rim, yeah?
Since wheelbuilding peeps are here I'll ask--is grease (of whatever/any kind) bad for carbon rims at the nipple interface?
Well, don't use DEgreaser, but I've never heard of anyone having problems...Yeah I'm a big fan of something slidey between rim and nipple. I just worried about putting anything on the alien carbon surface, whereas brass-on-aluminum is nothing new.
Maybe I'll do carbon for my next rims. Hmmm.
Just me being over-cautious, but also not wanting to end up with a rim splitting and then being the butt of the internet YOU DID WHAT WHEN YOU BUILT YOUR CARBON RIMZ YOU IDIOT AHAHAHAHAHA YOU DIDN'T USE THE $1200/oz PROPER CARBON GREASE AND DISSOLVED YOUR RIM AND DIED
also, congrats...riding wheels you've built yourself is a cool feeling, for me anyhow. Done a few sets over the years and it still always feels like a bit of an achievement rather than just routine maintenance.Yeah, this is an aluminum rim. If this will prove to be pretty good on the trail, that may make me want to do my own wheels in the future.
I appreciate that. Today is my first ride on the new rim. Going to run a tube in tire before filling with sealant to make is less of a mess to check everything out after this ride.also, congrats...riding wheels you've built yourself is a cool feeling, for me anyhow. Done a few sets over the years and it still always feels like a bit of an achievement rather than just routine maintenance.
It might be Sapim, but I have a tool to hold bladed spokes straight.I'm dreading trying to lace up my own straight-pull hubs next time they need a rim, though.
Not the actual lacing, I guess, since that's supposed to be super-easy, but 1) computing spoke length and 2) keeping non-bladed spokes from rotating during tensioning. Guessing a set of small channel-locks or even cheap visegrips with rubber of some sort applied to the jaws might work OK for #2, or there's an $85 tool supposed to take care of that problem.
I made my own bladed spoke holder by taking a small scrap of hardwood and cutting a shallow slot in it with a hacksaw.It might be Sapim, but I have a tool to hold bladed spokes straight.
It was probably only $50
Just like Lincoln did!!I made my own bladed spoke holder by taking a small scrap of hardwood and cutting a shallow slot in it with a hacksaw.
I would think a dab of loctite on the spoke head would help prevent it from rotating during the build.Well yeah but I'm not qualified for bladed spokes...that's too fancy for me...
Course a fancy tool to hold them straight seems even sillier than one for round. They're flat...can't you just use a solid piece of metal with a slot in it? Or a $1.50 mini adjustable wrench?
You just need more friction at the spoke head than you have at the nipple. Antisieze on the threads and loctite on the head and you should be good to go. Actually the tapered countersink shape of the head should wedge good enough to not be a problem.Hm. I didn't think it'd be that strong outside of a threaded interface...
JB Weld perhaps!