[djjohnr]

What light weight parts have you put on your bike have actually made a noticeable difference in how easy the bike is to pedal, climb or throw around? Let's limit this to weight effects only. Tires/rims are very noticeable, but what about other rotating elements with shorter radii like cranks, pedals, shoes and rotors? Cockpit items?

 

[gnarbar]

What light weight parts have you put on your bike have actually made a noticeable difference in how easy the bike is to pedal, climb or throw around? Let's limit this to weight effects only. Tires/rims are very noticeable, but what about other rotating elements with shorter radii like cranks, pedals, shoes and rotors? Cockpit items?

Start with frame - a lb or two knocked off a hefty frame is a great start
Rims, hubs, tires, tubeless - all good for faster rolling speed and faster acceleration (IMHPO)
Lighter (shorter, 165mm) cranks and pedals - yes done that
Lighter fork, air system, and shock too - yup got that t-shirt
Brakes, top of the line system will shave weight - sure, spent that $
Carbon bars - why certainly, sir
Ti > steel spring - oh yes
Lightweight seat/post- I have that uncomfortable experience nailed down
Measured the weight of drivetrain, rotors, for weight comparison - oh yes I've been that anal about component weight

Yup - done it all and had a 35lb DH bike that rips, but it was too light for my liking and lost the grounded stable feel in the transition. Not sure at what stage that was at, maybe 36.25lbs, or maybe one single component tipped the balance.

IDK - dropping major weight primarily from the frame, round rotating stuff and suspension seems like it gets the best return for the expenditure. Beyond that it's questionable if the $ spent gets a decent return, unless you just want to do this as a project and see where it takes you. I'd say 37.5lbs or just below is about the limit to keep that stability and necessary grounded feel for a DH bike while allowing it to feel more agile. Else you just end up with a DH/FR/slopestyle kind of crossover feel that doesn't excel at anything but is hella flyweight under you when you go thru rockgardens and random gnarrrs. Maybe that's what you're looking for, in which case sure fill your boots and lighten up everything.

Research and product knowledge is important too. Carbon bars will ease the battering of brake bumps if you ride lots of chundered bike park stuff. Ti springs *allegedly* perform better based on modulus, and other scientific dark matter concepts. I found an instant improvement with more compliance going through rough terrain, like-4-like, with no other component changed, and same spring rate. So, not just weight as a factor per each component change/upgrade.

HTH

 

[Scrub]

A titanium spring for the rear shock made a noticable difference while flicking the bike in corners and in the air for me. Surprisingly a set of HT MN01AT pedals made a difference in rotation coming off a set of heavier aluminum Azonic 420's. But you can get the 420's down by modifying them.

 

[al-irl]

any part that moves and is therefore dynamic weight will make a noticeable performance difference. So wheels, cranks, pedals and shoes will all be noticeable. However if your ditching weight and sacrificing for me its not worth the trade off but that will depend on how heavy you are. The ti spring also makes a noticeable difference but i think thats more because its usually a fairly big weight difference nearly a pound in some cases over a steel spring depending on which Ti spring you get

 

[Tomasz]

My Whistla bike is 31.9lb. Just start with what you can afford and keep going 'till you can't afford it, then keep on spending. The lightweight frames (V10.5&9.9) are a must if you want to get serious.

Getting to 33lb is pretty easy with a "normal" budget (6-8k complete). Getting to 31 requires a bit more, not too much. Getting to 30 flat and below requires some uncommon/unconventional parts.

 

[daisycutter]

Best places to loose weight-Rims,tires,ti-spring or air shock,tubeless

 

[Gary]

A titanium spring for the rear shock made a noticable difference while flicking the bike in corners and in the air for me. Surprisingly a set of HT MN01AT pedals made a difference in rotation coming off a set of heavier aluminum Azonic 420's. But you can get the 420's down by modifying them.

Ha ha.. It's New Year not April fools!

 

[Tomasz]

Best places to loose weight-Rims,tires,ti-spring or air shock,tubeless

I'm a bit split on tubes vs tubeless. I ran both last season (my 31.9lb bike was with tubes). But you can save a lot of weight by at least switching from heavy tubes to XC or AM tubes. Had zero flats over 600k vert ft Maxxis Ultralight tubes. Of course Whistler has no thorns etc.

You can save a lot of weight by switching to SRAM X0 Trail brakes. They're amazing.

Air fork & air shock of course.

If you're not pedaling, a lightweight cassette will save a solid amount.

SixC cranks save loads of weight too, if you're into that sorta thing.

Unconventional stuff: Integrated stem/crown, foam grips, Magic Mary Supergravity tires, non-DH front wheel. ~2lb right there, over half of it rotational.

 

[csermonet]

33lbs is pretty easy with a "normal" budget? We are talking about downhill bikes right? When a downhill bike starts to get under 35lbs I have serious doubts about reliability, and the feasibility of replacing broken parts. If you are spending that kind of money without shop deals or sponsorship deals, chances are you look at your bike more than you ride it, most likely while its on a scale. My DHR is 38lbs and on the rare occasion that I have a part fail, it doesn't cost an arm and a leg.

 

[Kanye West]

My Whistla bike is 31.9lb. Just start with what you can afford and keep going 'till you can't afford it, then keep on spending. The lightweight frames (V10.5&9.9) are a must if you want to get serious.

Getting to 33lb is pretty easy with a "normal" budget (6-8k complete). Getting to 31 requires a bit more, not too much. Getting to 30 flat and below requires some uncommon/unconventional parts.

Silly.

Just take a dump before you ride and spend the money on tires, brake pads, and gas money/lift tickets.

 

[djjohnr]

My only interest is to extend how long I can ride without getting tired, ie how many runs on the DH bike and how many feet climbed on the AM bike. The only major change in weight that I've ever noticed on a bike were tires/rims, however I've never dropped a bike's weight by several pounds in static parts to see what the effect is.

 

[gnarbar]

My only interest is to extend how long I can ride without getting tired, ie how many runs on the DH bike and how many feet climbed on the AM bike. The only major change in weight that I've ever noticed on a bike were tires/rims, however I've never dropped a bike's weight by several pounds in static parts to see what the effect is.

Then spend the $ on gym time and cardio training. You'll shred like a boss. A couple pounds bike weight is irrelevant.

Not really sure what info/feedback you're looking for TBH.

 

[djjohnr]

Then spend the $ on gym time and cardio training. You'll shred like a boss. A couple pounds bike weight is irrelevant.

Not really sure what info/feedback you're looking for TBH.

Already do the gym. I'm looking for peoples feedback on what weight loss improvements in their bike they've actually felt (see Scrubs response).

 

[Tomasz]

Cutting weight won't make it that much easier to pedal. Sure lose rotational mass will make it a bit better, but a lockout or partial lockout shock or remote seatpost will make a much much much bigger difference.

 

[gnarbar]

Already do the gym. I'm looking for peoples feedback on what weight loss improvements in their bike they've actually felt (see Scrubs response).

I am confused and feel like I should redact my previous posts.

 

[kickstand]

Already do the gym.

do it better then

 

[jonKranked]

Already do the gym. I'm looking for peoples feedback on what weight loss improvements in their bike they've actually felt (see Scrubs response).

the answer is clearly HGH and/or EPO

 

[ianjenn]

the answer is clearly HGH and/or EPO

I would suggest Decca over either unless he spins for 100+ miles at a time at 160+ RPM. At least the roids will allow him to recover faster!

 

[demo 9]

Rotational is huge, i found basically anything other than wheels to basically be a waste-unless you do it on the whole when you start. Example, build from the frame up with all light parts the first time, when you loose 5 lbs, you do notice it-even when its "bull****" weight.

That said, i would still call it quits after the wheels

 

[Gary]

(see Scrubs response).

You're looking for complete fantasy feedback to justify spending your money on certain parts?

the only measurable performance gain from switching to a Ti spring is the boner you'll get seeing <200g saving shown on your digital scale.

 

[djjohnr]

You're looking for complete fantasy feedback to justify spending your money on certain parts?

the only measurable performance gain from switching to a Ti spring is the boner you'll get seeing <200g saving shown on your digital scale.

Actually I'm looking for feedback that will keep me from blowing money that I'd rather blow on hookers and blow...or audio gear.

 

[Sandwich]

The biggest one I noticed was in the fork. A long time ago I switched to a significantly lighter fork and it really opened up my riding. I was less tired and more in control. A lb or so is not the end of the world, but more than that makes a huge difference.

The other side to that is weight balance. I had a couple of bikes last season, some were balanced and the last one was not. It had an air shock rear, coil spring front, and was a simple single pivot. It was decidedly nose heavy and the lack of balance was at times disconcerting. I would rather have paired an air fork or coil shock regardless of weight to balance it out.

 

[Udi]

I think looking for noticeable differences in small individual parts other than wheels is probably silly.

What is far worse is taking this too far and running ridiculously light tyres/rims/tubes and then running 5000psi to avoid failures/damage, which is a trend I've noticed spiking over the last few years. There's a noticeable reduction in traction that vastly offsets any weight benefit.

Everywhere else though it does add up, any noticeable gains will usually be as a result of small weight savings in multiple locations - unless of course you're able to remove 1kg in one hit somewhere, like in a frame or fork.

I doubt anyone is going to see a noticeable difference in a singular removal of 100g from a crankset, but if you take 100g each off the cranks, cassette, pedals, spring, etc - then you might see some change in overall agility.

The other mistake is when people buy a frame that's too heavy and compensate with cranks that bend at the sight of a rock, rotors that have more air than metal content, etc. If you want to be a weight weenie and also have a strong bike, you need to have a holistic attitude to the changes.

 

[Gary]

Actually I'm looking for feedback that will keep me from blowing money that I'd rather blow on hookers and blow...or audio gear.

I assume you have a working bike?
if you have fuel money and lift pass money ALL the rest is for hookers and blow.. enough blow and you won't need decent audio gear

 

[gnarbar]

the only measurable performance gain from switching to a Ti spring is the boner you'll get seeing <200g saving shown on your digital scale.

but modulus, brah!

 

[Gary]

Begs the question does MOAR modulus = Moar shimz?

 

[gnarbar]

Begs the question does MOAR modulus = Moar shimz?

Moar sprung!!!!!

 

[Christiaan]

My Whistla bike is 31.9lb. Just start with what you can afford and keep going 'till you can't afford it, then keep on spending. The lightweight frames (V10.5&9.9) are a must if you want to get serious.

Getting to 33lb is pretty easy with a "normal" budget (6-8k complete). Getting to 31 requires a bit more, not too much. Getting to 30 flat and below requires some uncommon/unconventional parts.

My v10.4 was 13.45kg, not sure what that is in lbs, 29? Anyway, too light! Not stable in the air, deflecting on rough terrain, rock gardens, etc, there is such a thing as to light, arround 15kg it was alot better to ride

 

[ianjenn]

My v10.4 was 13.45kg, not sure what that is in lbs, 29? Anyway, too light! Not stable in the air, deflecting on rough terrain, rock gardens, etc, there is such a thing as to light, arround 15kg it was alot better to ride

 

[Udi]

I concur, clearly some of us have a very different view of what downhill is.

Here are some pictorial reminders:

Granted you can achieve the last two with 13-15kg builds and 50psi pressures, but they're less than ideal scenarios.

 

[csermonet]

I concur, clearly some of us have a very different view of what downhill is.

Here are some pictorial reminders:

Granted you can achieve the last two with 13-15kg builds and 50psi pressures, but they're less than ideal scenarios.

hahahaha

 

[wydopen]

I could definitely feel the weight difference going from a 185mm rotor to a 203 on the back of my trail bike..ive been running it but when I have to replace it I will go back to a 185..

i could also feel the savings going to xtr pedals from some heavier shimanos..

switching from light xc tubes to tubeless (stans tape and sealant) I didnt notice as much as I thought I would..

im about to drop about 70g's +/- each wheel on the new wheelset im building..will be interesting to see how noticeable it is..

 

[CBJ]

You are talking XC bike this thread is discussing DH bike weight savings.

As long as my suspension was working and all the basics there is no doubt that a really nice wheelset and tire setup would be my first choice. Makes a huge difference on any bike.

 

[wydopen]

You are talking XC bike this thread is discussing DH bike weight savings.

As long as my suspension was working and all the basics there is no doubt that a really nice wheelset and tire setup would be my first choice. Makes a huge difference on any bike.

If you were replying to me I wouldnt exactly consider my Giant ReignX an xc bike..

almost 7" of travel and over 30lbs..I ride the same trails I used to shuttle and people ride dh bikes on..now I just pedal to the top..

being able to feel a weight difference in parts is the same regardless of what kinda bike its on..

 

[Sandwich]

Ahh, an off season weight thread. Almost as good as a wheel size or anti squats thread.

 

[StiHacka]

Ahh, an off season weight thread. Almost as good as a wheel size or anti squats thread.

It seems to me that the benefits of Ti springs have not been properly discussed in this thread yet.

 

[Sandwich]

I hear they're springer than steel springs.

 

[Gary]

im about to drop about 70g's +/- each wheel on the new wheelset im building..will be interesting to see how noticeable it is..

Pretty sure you'll be absolutely blown away by a 140g difference if you "could definitely feel the difference" a 35g weight increase made to the ride characteristics of your 7" travel 14000g not-XC bike

being able to feel a weight difference in parts certainly is a TALENT regardless of what kinda bike its on..

 

[gnarbar]

It seems to me that the benefits of Ti springs have not been properly discussed in this thread yet.

Modulus got name dropped, and a tenuous link was provided for moar e-cred.

 

[ritche]

for the dh frame, get a dremel and make speed holes! on the uprights like the ih sunday.

remove decals/stickers and also powder coat on alu frames.

ditch the chain guides, tacos, bashguards, slider, rollers, the 3 allen bolts and spacers,
use red bull rampage approved, narrow/wide teeth chain ring, of course with short cage, clutch derailleur.

if you like, you can saw off the the 3 iscg '05 tabs. ......joke