New Whip? New toys for the dependable steed?
- Thread starter mykel
- Start date
New chainring to make the chain line 55mm, new schwalbes, new ring for cranks, carbon gx cranks.
It's actually not loud, but bearings and races are new, so time will tell.
No one will hear it over my motorbike noises I make, it gets real when I do my shifting noises and turbo blow off..
The clocking will be wrong to use an oval chainring on SRAM with an idler. That will shirley be terrible??
No, I took care of that...I countersunk random holes on back of the oval so now I can put the power spot to the 12 o clock position to eliminate kick back.
Engineers and degrees , lol who needs that shit...a drill and some duct tape...we gunna run this sumabitch!!!
Glad you've done that to eliminate kick back on a high pivot idler bike. I'd still add some ochains to be sure though
Added insurance is always best policy, your right! LmaoGlad you've done that to eliminate kick back on a high pivot idler bike. I'd still add some ochains to be sure though
The ultimate trail bike is one step closer.
Santa Cruz Tallboy 4 with Cascade link and 140mm Pike up front.
65 degree HA, 441 chain stays, and now a 7.5 x 2.0 coil to put rear travel right under 140mm.
If all goes well, it'll go to Craig this winter to get the Avalanche treatment. His work with the Bomber CRs is top notch.
Shock feels a bit harsh and over damped in stock form. The thing has a 600# spring on it and rebound is 2-3 clicks from wide open!
Santa Cruz Tallboy 4 with Cascade link and 140mm Pike up front.
65 degree HA, 441 chain stays, and now a 7.5 x 2.0 coil to put rear travel right under 140mm.
If all goes well, it'll go to Craig this winter to get the Avalanche treatment. His work with the Bomber CRs is top notch.
Shock feels a bit harsh and over damped in stock form. The thing has a 600# spring on it and rebound is 2-3 clicks from wide open!
Look at that, a non trunion shock that fits fine and can fit a 600 pound spring.The ultimate trail bike is one step closer.
Santa Cruz Tallboy 4 with Cascade link and 140mm Pike up front.
65 degree HA, 441 chain stays, and now a 7.5 x 2.0 coil to put rear travel right under 140mm.
If all goes well, it'll go to Craig this winter to get the Avalanche treatment. His work with the Bomber CRs is top notch.
Shock feels a bit harsh and over damped in stock form. The thing has a 600# spring on it and rebound is 2-3 clicks from wide open!
View attachment 202307
I have a 205x65mm Bomber that a 600lb spring will not fit on. Even the 550 spring I have needs a little bit of compression to screw the preload collar on, even though Fox says it fits.
You have most likely seen this already
2020 SANTA CRUZ Tallboy V4
www.avalanchedownhillracing.com
Did you reshim your rebound? 2-3 clicks from open sounds wild considering such a hefty spring...
Did you do something with the Fox float before switching to the coil? I am a newly owner of a second hand TB4 and I have ditched the negative volume spacers during a recent service. I haven't test ridden the bike yet. Maybe you have some advice?
Look at that, a non trunion shock that fits fine and can fit a 600 pound spring.
I have a 205x65mm Bomber that a 600lb spring will not fit on. Even the 550 spring I have needs a little bit of compression to screw the preload collar on, even though Fox says it fits.
My RS SuperDeluxe RCT Coil in 185 x 50 trunion will just take a 450. A 500 you need to really push to get the spring retainer on and a bit of spring compression to get it back off.
Strangely when the 9.5 x 3 CCDB from the DH bike was rebuilt last winter it got an updated beefier shaft and new islet etc. My 500lb spring that used to slip on and off real slick like, now the spring retainer needs a good push and a bit of compression to remove. Eye to eye measures correctly, so the new end must have a slightly different geometry.
Glad I don't need a heavier spring in either case.
At least my shocks are consistent.
Ha, never saw that Avalanche page. Craig's website is......not dialed.
I have not opened the Bomber up yet, but I know they use 10wt and have pretty small rebound ports. The base valve is worse, with those bellville washers it get uber stiff/harsh if you try to add some LSC. I toyed with the idea of tuning it myself, but it needs some advanced mods to the base valve that require parts to be made to really help it. I have had an Avalanche tuned Bomber CR before (got it 2nd hand) and it was amazing.
I have a Float X, that I did tune, never ran the stock Float DPS on this frame.
For the DPS, ditching any negative volume spacers is good. You can then run more air and it will feel better off the top. Some DPS have a dished piston (it will be black) or a preloaded rebound/compression stack. You need to get rid of any of that and maybe add a bit of stiffness to the rebound stack and use 5-7wt oil instead of the stock 10wt. This will help a lot!
If you have the black piston, this is the one you need to replace it with;
Part # 805-02-304-KIT
Thanks @Redwood Mulch Chucker !
I have the silver piston on my float with a preloaded compression stack. It looks like that inside for now. I will most likely adjust the shims a little. I need to ride the bike more first. And the eyelet roller bearing is a bit of an annoyance when opening the shock...
Please update us on whatever you do on this Bomber shock!
I have the silver piston on my float with a preloaded compression stack. It looks like that inside for now. I will most likely adjust the shims a little. I need to ride the bike more first. And the eyelet roller bearing is a bit of an annoyance when opening the shock...
Please update us on whatever you do on this Bomber shock!
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Newish dirt bicycle. Replaced Fox air suspension with all coil. CC Kitsuma, CC Helm Coil. Also some other Deity and OneUp bits and I9 Enduros
Nice, curious as to how the coil is with stock link. Are you running it at 62.5mm stroke?
What's the rate and what do you weigh?
Yeah, running 62.5 with a 450lb spring. I'm about 175lbs. So far I have about 60 miles on it locally basically trail riding. rear sticks to the ground way better than the air. Their is some noticeable pedal bob but nothing egregious. I honestly haven't had much time to dick around with the settings but out of the box it's been a thumbs up.
Grabbed a backup wheelset for cheap..I can overlook color if I blow a wheel up and need a replacement.
Plan on racing Enduro and getting back to DH racing this year so spare wheels for the smaller bike too.
Plan on racing Enduro and getting back to DH racing this year so spare wheels for the smaller bike too.
Lol NOOOO...
I leave the dirt and crap on fridge handles and table in kitchen , wife will vouge for that. My shop is clean...lol...
You can wipe some dirt on my fridge though..
#compromise
Life's a negotiation so the wife's fridge gets marked, you get to mark something and I get to keep my shop clean..I still get blamed for the mess.win win win
I did remove the preload ring shim on the compression stack and soften a tiny bit the rebound stack. The negative spacers were also removed.
What a difference!
The bike is now eating bumps and flying over roots
I also found a happy place with pressure and positive spacers.
Awesome!I did remove the preload ring shim on the compression stack and soften a tiny bit the rebound stack. The negative spacers were also removed.
What a difference!
The bike is now eating bumps and flying over roots
Those little shocks can be pretty nice, I like them.
They are usually just setup XC style, over damped and stiff.
They are nice indeed: reliable and relatively easy to service. Quite tunable too even if I can feel lost in the many possibilities... for example what is the difference between dish piston vs a flat one with a preloaded stack? That should be quite similar in my book...Awesome!
Those little shocks can be pretty nice, I like them.
They are usually just setup XC style, over damped and stiff.
I also lowered the IFP pressure to 300psi to make the shock more supple. I don't use the lockout and even removed the lockout plate.
Nothing better than hacking and grinding away on a brand new frame to get the chain guide to fit.
It's like the the 90's DH scene all over again. Anyone seen my orange roller?
It's like the
It's like the the 90's DH scene all over again. Anyone seen my orange roller?
It's like the
It's a "Rider owned for LIFE, bro" frame.
The ISCG tabs stick out too far, chain guide needed to move in board.
I had to do this with the last one I had from them as well.
3.2mm of carbon dust and aluminum shavings later she's perfect!
PS: That's just a cheap workout bench in the garage, fully certified for metal shavings.
The ISCG tabs stick out too far, chain guide needed to move in board.
I had to do this with the last one I had from them as well.
3.2mm of carbon dust and aluminum shavings later she's perfect!
PS: That's just a cheap workout bench in the garage, fully certified for metal shavings.
.I'd be checking the chainline on your cranks and your BB spacers or something. Thats a wild spec issue
The cranks (Praxis) are like the old GXP in that they locate off of the ND side cup. So spacer behind the DS cup does not change anything in regards to CL.Giddy up!
3mm sounds awfully close to what a BB spacer is
Like I said, it was the same on the last Transition I had, I did the same thing to the ISCG tabs on that one.
I have used these cranks/chainguide on Specialized and Santa Cruz frames with no issue. Actually had to use washers to space the guide out on those frames.
Transition ISCG tabs are outboard of what most other companies run it seems.
.10 of what, mm, inches, football fields, bathtubs?
Buddy is trying to build some, any advice very welcome on recommended sizes.
+0.04, +0.07 and +0.10mm is what I got from Bitul.pl.10 of what, mm, inches, football fields, bathtubs?
Buddy is trying to build some, any advice very welcome on recommended sizes.
+0.07 is the one you want to use.
+0.04 will help to make space if the bushing is really tight to start with
+0.10 is the "race" setting where you compromise longevity
Fox is +0.05 to +0.15 for factory specs.
+0.10 is typical set not near end of bushing life
Ohlins does +0.18
Marzocchi used to be +0.20 over and that's where they had bushing slop but no failures
My personal ones are +0.14 and +0.18 for my forks..
For business I use +0.10 on everything... It's not compromising longevity..
Personal friends forks and buddies i race or ride with we will be +0.14 minimum , check the ride and if not flawless in stutter bumps and corners ill go up....
+0.10 is typical set not near end of bushing life
Ohlins does +0.18
Marzocchi used to be +0.20 over and that's where they had bushing slop but no failures
My personal ones are +0.14 and +0.18 for my forks..
For business I use +0.10 on everything... It's not compromising longevity..
Personal friends forks and buddies i race or ride with we will be +0.14 minimum , check the ride and if not flawless in stutter bumps and corners ill go up....
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