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Pedal removal secrets PLEASE SHARE

spincrazy

I love to climb
Jul 19, 2001
1,529
0
Brooklyn
ARRRRRRGGGHGHGGH!

Ok, so I can't remove my pedal from my crank. They are Truvativ Stylo Teams and the pedal is some Shimano knock-off (Rock something or other). They were installed with the provided pedal washer. They seem to have a very close relationship and are very, very reluctant to separate, let alone divorce.

Things I've tried:

*Pedal wrench on the square-sided end of the spindle
*Allen wrench on the backside of the spindle.
*Liquid Wrench (liberally. my apt now reeks of the stuff)
*Tapping with hammer on spindle to remove any rust (how can alloy rust), and generally break up the gunk that could be present, and facilitate penetration of the above mentioned Liquid Wrench.
*Talking nicely to it while bending wrench and stripping allen key tool
*swearing at it and hammering the wrench.

All to no avail.

Please share your secret pedal removal techniques with me - with sugar on top.
 

oldfart

Turbo Monkey
Jul 5, 2001
1,206
24
North Van
I assume you know one pedal has reverse threads? Hold the wrench and pedal forward, that is the direction it comes off in on both sides. Puttin' them on you hold the wrench and pedal backwards. And yes lots of grease or anti seize on the threads.

Penetrating oil is the way to start but maybe some heat from a torch will help break the bond. Steel and aluminum can bond quite well. Sweat helps a lot to make two parts of disimilar metal one. Called galvanic corrosion. Check www.sheldonbrown.com for tips. I haven't checked specifically but there's probably something there. Or check tips for removing stuck seatposts or stems.
 

-BB-

I broke all the rules, but somehow still became mo
Sep 6, 2001
4,254
28
Livin it up in the O.C.
Originally posted by spincrazy
ARRRRRRGGGHGHGGH!

Ok, so I can't remove my pedal from my crank. They are Truvativ Stylo Teams and the pedal is some Shimano knock-off (Rock something or other). They were installed with the provided pedal washer. They seem to have a very close relationship and are very, very reluctant to separate, let alone divorce.

Things I've tried:

*Pedal wrench on the square-sided end of the spindle
*Allen wrench on the backside of the spindle.
*Liquid Wrench (liberally. my apt now reeks of the stuff)
*Tapping with hammer on spindle to remove any rust (how can alloy rust), and generally break up the gunk that could be present, and facilitate penetration of the above mentioned Liquid Wrench.
*Talking nicely to it while bending wrench and stripping allen key tool
*swearing at it and hammering the wrench.

All to no avail.

Please share your secret pedal removal techniques with me - with sugar on top.

You DO remember that one side is a reverse thread, right?


(Edit: DOPE!!! He beat me to it.)
 

spincrazy

I love to climb
Jul 19, 2001
1,529
0
Brooklyn
reverse threads, yeah - I know. I tried a lighter on it for awhile to no avail as well. Thanks for the tips.
 

SpasticJack

Monkey
Feb 25, 2002
344
0
Make damn good and sure that you're turning it the correct way and get yourself a piece of pipe for more leverage on the pedal wrench. If thats not your style, I always found aligning the wrench fairly close to the arm and squeezing the two together worked pretty well.
 

Shibby

Monkey
Sep 9, 2001
178
0
cambridge, ma
that's the way

if it's really bad, tap on the end of the pedal wrench with a rubber mallet while holding it close to the crank.

Originally posted by SpasticJack
Make damn good and sure that you're turning it the correct way and get yourself a piece of pipe for more leverage on the pedal wrench. If thats not your style, I always found aligning the wrench fairly close to the arm and squeezing the two together worked pretty well.
 
R

RideMonkey

Guest
If your wrench engages the pedal tightly, try putting a pipe on the end of the wrench so that you have a very long lever arm.

If you don't have a pipe, put the wrench on the pedal and whack the wrench with a hammer (I just did this). Sketchy, but will often work.
 

spincrazy

I love to climb
Jul 19, 2001
1,529
0
Brooklyn
Thanks again for the input guys. I got it off this morning.

Bigger wrench + bigger hammer. No bolt's going to stop me from riding.

I was wanting to do the pipe thing, but alas, no pipe. All's well now. Sketchy hammering away so close to easily dentable/breakable (wallet) stuff.
 

-BB-

I broke all the rules, but somehow still became mo
Sep 6, 2001
4,254
28
Livin it up in the O.C.
Originally posted by spincrazy
Thanks again for the input guys. I got it off this morning.

Bigger wrench + bigger hammer. No bolt's going to stop me from riding.

I was wanting to do the pipe thing, but alas, no pipe. All's well now. Sketchy hammering away so close to easily dentable/breakable (wallet) stuff.

Yeah... We ALL want to try this "pipe" thing. ;)
 

spincrazy

I love to climb
Jul 19, 2001
1,529
0
Brooklyn
Originally posted by -BB-



Yeah... We ALL want to try this "pipe" thing. ;)
INTERESTING of subject (sorta) tidbit. East coaster don't use glass pipes. It's too closely associated to crack smoking. blunt land.
 

myke

Chimp
Nov 16, 2001
27
0
MA
Not so true at least in MA. Glass is big in the pioneer valley, but only hand blown nice stuff, if people cant afford nice glass its usually brass or blunts. Though I dont know many people over 30 who use pipes, always with the paper. It is a college town with some cash flow though....probably has something to do with all the ganj and glass around here.
 

spincrazy

I love to climb
Jul 19, 2001
1,529
0
Brooklyn
Way off topic still, but it's ok because the damn pedal is off!!!
Everyone here tells me (everyone being those from NY, NJ) it's so. I'm from the Pacific NW where it's all nice, hand-blown stuff. Imagine going through a metal detector with brass in your pocket.:)
 

SpasticJack

Monkey
Feb 25, 2002
344
0
less off topic.... you do know you don't need to crank your pedals on super hard when putting them back on right? Just past hand tight is plenty.
 

spincrazy

I love to climb
Jul 19, 2001
1,529
0
Brooklyn
yeah, I do know. Not sure how it came to get so damn tight in the first place. It wasn't cross threaded or anything. The new pedals went in with plenty grease this time so I don't have this problem again.
 

Shibby

Monkey
Sep 9, 2001
178
0
cambridge, ma
Originally posted by SpasticJack
less off topic.... you do know you don't need to crank your pedals on super hard when putting them back on right? Just past hand tight is plenty.
I'm sure you've got the torque correct, but that would just scare me.

I wail on em till they stop movin. The CrMo/CrMo interface probably helps too.