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Quick question. 20mm front hub

Electric_City

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Apr 14, 2007
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I have a Hadley 20mm front hub that I used with a Fox 36 for 8 years and I'm now building up my hardtail with a 15x110 boost fork. So by converting from 20x110 to boost, which is 15x110, this shouldn't shift the hub shell in either direction, (which would lead to dishing and unequal spoke lenghts). Correct?
 
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jonKranked

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I have a Hadley 20mm front hub that I used with a Fox 36 for 8 years and I'm now building up my hardtail with a 15x110 boost fork. So by converting from 20x110 to boost, which is 15x110, this shouldn't shift the hub shell in either direction, (which would lead to dishing and unequal spoke lenghts). Correct?
i *believe* you should be OK. I did something similar. a 15 year old hadley 20mm converted to 15mm for a mattoc. but it wasn't boost.

if the boost spacing is problematic, all you'll need to do is dish the wheel a few mm to the side, and possibly a disc rotor spacer (which is inexpensive).
 

StiHacka

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HAB

Chelsea from Seattle
Apr 28, 2007
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There are two ways this could go, and I'm not sure which is correct:
  1. The conversion kit is designed to keep the dish the same. You therefore need a 5mm rotor spacer to move the rotor outboard to the boost position.
  2. The conversion kit is designed to keep the offset between the NDS end cap face and the rotor mounting face the same, so that you don't need a rotor spacer. It therefore effectively shifts the wheel 5mm to the NDS. You may then need to dish the wheel back depending on tire clearance and how much you care about having it dead on center.
Based on the fact that the seals are very much not centered in the conversion kit, it looks like it's option 2.
 
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HAB

Chelsea from Seattle
Apr 28, 2007
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I've still got 20x110 axles on all my mountain bikes (with 2016MY or newer forks all around, thanks Fox!) so I'm pretty low on fucks.
 

Dogboy

Turbo Monkey
Apr 12, 2004
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There are two ways this could go, and I'm not sure which is correct:
  1. The conversion kit is designed to keep the dish the same. You therefore need a 5mm rotor spacer to move the rotor outboard to the boost position.
  2. The conversion kit is designed to keep the offset between the NDS end cap face and the rotor mounting face the same, so that you don't need a rotor spacer. It therefore effectively shifts the wheel 5mm to the NDS. You may then need to dish the wheel back depending on tire clearance and how much you care about having it dead on center.
Based on the fact that the seals are very much not centered in the conversion kit, it looks like it's option 2.
It's going to be option 2 with a re-dish of the wheel. Shame hub makers didn't use all that extra width on the 20x110 hubs to space the flanges farther apart 15 years ago.
 

HAB

Chelsea from Seattle
Apr 28, 2007
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It's going to be option 2 with a re-dish of the wheel. Shame hub makers didn't use all that extra width on the 20x110 hubs to space the flanges farther apart 15 years ago.
Well, the whole reason for that was to make the hubs convertible between 20x110 and 9x100. If they'd pushed the flanges wider, it wouldn't have fit in a 100mm spaced fork.
 

Flo33

Turbo Monkey
Mar 3, 2015
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I'm not that convinced that 5 mm wider flanges make such a difference in wheel stability. I'm pretty sure tough that a 20 mm axle makes a fork a lot stiffer. Lizurds scheme.
 

velocipedist

Lubrication Sensei
Jul 11, 2006
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Rainbow City Alabama
Stiffness aside, I like having my hubs sit in the dropouts sans axles. That it took fubar standards to get here is lizard licking lame.

I'm not that convinced that 5 mm wider flanges make such a difference in wheel stability. I'm pretty sure tough that a 20 mm axle makes a fork a lot stiffer. Lizurds scheme.
 

jonKranked

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Nov 10, 2005
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I'm not that convinced that 5 mm wider flanges make such a difference in wheel stability. I'm pretty sure tough that a 20 mm axle makes a fork a lot stiffer. Lizurds scheme.
this one actually makes sense, as its increasing the angle of the spoke from the rim in regards to the vertical plane. you can achieve the same effect by using taller flanges.
 

StiHacka

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Just saw this in a local buy/sell forum: I9 front hub 28h boost spacing
:think:
Why, dafuq?? Making wheels moar and less stiff at the same time? :confused:
 

Electric_City

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Apr 14, 2007
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Just saw this in a local buy/sell forum: I9 front hub 28h boost spacing
:think:
Why, dafuq?? Making wheels moar and less stiff at the same time? :confused:
I believe that 28h is kind of becoming something since carbon rims are here... Unfortunately.
 

Electric_City

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Apr 14, 2007
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I used to run 20 or whatever Rolf's were, but it seems a lot more common now than it was in the past. I believe it's because of crabon rimz.
 

rollertoaster

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Aug 7, 2007
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I believe that 28h is kind of becoming something since carbon rims are here... Unfortunately.
I was skeptical of 28h wheels myself. I have about a year of racing, riding and bike park smashing on a set of e13 trsr 29er wheels though and I think I've changed my stance. Carbon makes the wheels much stiffer I think my next wheels will be 28h as well
 

Kurt_80

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Jan 25, 2016
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I was skeptical of 28h wheels myself. I have about a year of racing, riding and bike park smashing on a set of e13 trsr 29er wheels though and I think I've changed my stance. Carbon makes the wheels much stiffer I think my next wheels will be 28h as well
Ha, just posted about this in the "hardtail and you" thread. So 28 (24 maybe?) spokes on a carbon rimmed hardtail could be ok? This would be a heavier duty rim on a enduro/all rounder/thrasher bike.
 

Electric_City

Torture wrench
Apr 14, 2007
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Left- Hadley 20x110 non boost w/5mm spacer from my 1998 Rolf wheels.

Right- Hope Pro4 15x110 boost.

Note that drive side flanges are equal and disc side are only 4mm different. How's this boost shit better?


20180226_221755.jpg
20180227_072805.jpg
 
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Electric_City

Torture wrench
Apr 14, 2007
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Unfortunately, there's not a 15x110 non-boost conversion that would allow me to keep the hub where it's at and utilize the 5mm spacer that i have on there. Fwiw, the boost conversion moves the hub 5mm to the disc which would lead to 2 very different spoke tensions. I got this hub off of fleaBay for practically cost.
 

StiHacka

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Time to necro-bump this thread. Has anyone mated a Hadley DH hub to a Booost fork using their 110x15 boost axle? Did you use a rotor spacer or did you have to re-dish the wheel? TIA!
 

StiHacka

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I have the boost axle for my DH front hub already, now waiting for the fork. Balle page says "may need re-dishing", and unlike the rear hub conversion kit, the 5mm spacer and longer bolts are not included.
 

Sandwich

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Am putting together a new wheel. 20x110 fits perfect in my 15x110 fork. Rotor needs spacing, and of course the axle needs spacing. I can convert it properly, but @Electric_City @StiHacka what did you end up doing? Axle spacers are available, but I'd love to not re-dish my wheel and potentially make it weaker as well as allow for swapping between my two forks if need be.
 

StiHacka

Compensating for something
Jan 4, 2013
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super tiger necro bump

Am putting together a new wheel. 20x110 fits perfect in my 15x110 fork. Rotor needs spacing, and of course the axle needs spacing. I can convert it properly, but @Electric_City @StiHacka what did you end up doing? Axle spacers are available, but I'd love to not re-dish my wheel and potentially make it weaker as well as allow for swapping between my two forks if need be.
Hadley? Their conversion kit is a new axle + re-dishing. Re-dishing centers the rim between the flanges, evens spoke tension so I think the wheel is actually stronger than before.
 

englertracing

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Mar 5, 2012
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I'm not that convinced that 5 mm wider flanges make such a difference in wheel stability. I'm pretty sure tough that a 20 mm axle makes a fork a lot stiffer. Lizurds scheme.
5mm wider flanges on a 32h wheel with 1.8mm spokes results in an increase in lateral stiffness from 445lbs/in to 610lb/in
And lateral buckling from 136lbs to 155lbs.



Screenshot_20210331-205803_Chrome.jpg

Screenshot_20210331-205743_Chrome.jpg


It's fun to compare things like 1.6mm 36h, 1.8mm 32h, and 2mm 28h.
 

Happymtb.fr

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Feb 9, 2016
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It's fun to compare things like 1.6mm 36h, 1.8mm 32h, and 2mm 28h.
Nice link!
I always wondered if there is a difference in lateral stiffness on non symmetrical hubs depending on the direction the force is applied (either from drive side toward brake side or from brake side toward drive side).