If you want to reduce the stroke you can do it yourself. Go to your local hardware store and pick up big 1/8" thick nylon washers (ones that will fit perfectly around the damper shaft). Use a hacksaw to cut a slot into them diagonally. Slide them over the damper shaft and under the bottom out bumber. I've done this on two of my dhx 5.0 coil shocks without issues.
It definately makes the bike feel shorter travel, but did I notice any performance improvements? Not really, but it was fun to try
The other thing, somone pointed out when I was doing this is that you need to increase your spring rate as you go to lower travel. Well, I did that, and what I wound up with was just using a higher spring rate with no bumpers and I love it.
As far as the eye to eye- push could do it, or if you only need 3-4 millimeters, you could make, or have some offset drilled shock/ bushing spacers made.
That could be kinda fun too. Good luck!
If you reduce the i2i on an aftermarket shock, it becomes permanent. You can't go back to the original length again. PUSH can do this, it has been done before.
If you reduce the i2i on an aftermarket shock, it becomes permanent. You can't go back to the original length again. PUSH can do this, it has been done before.
Depends how you do it - if you just put a top-out spacer between the main piston and the seal head then it's entirely reversible and pretty simple too. Tekin Suspension in Aus do this for a lot of people.
Depends how you do it - if you just put a top-out spacer between the main piston and the seal head then it's entirely reversible and pretty simple too. Tekin Suspension in Aus do this for a lot of people.
If you put a top-out spacer between the seal head and the main piston (ie inside the shock) it'll reduce the stroke (and eye to eye) by changing the top-out position rather than bottom-out position. Completely reversible. If you actually cut down the shock body you'd risk the piston bottoming out internally before the bottom-out bumper did.
I suppose a spacer could be used in a Fox shock, but it will probably mess with the rebound damping. If you look closely at the end of the shaft where the piston is located there is a teardrop shaped hole in the shaft. This is a hydraulic topout feature. If you simply add a shaft spacer instead of cutting the shaft shorer you will probably mess this system up. I haven't tested it myself, but it's definitely there for a reason.
I suppose a spacer could be used in a Fox shock, but it will probably mess with the rebound damping. If you look closely at the end of the shaft where the piston is located there is a teardrop shaped hole in the shaft. This is a hydraulic topout feature. If you simply add a shaft spacer instead of cutting the shaft shorer you will probably mess this system up. I haven't tested it myself, but it's definitely there for a reason.
Yep, requires that you run virtually no preload (or fix the spacer to the seal head somehow - not exactly hard), but not all shocks have a hydraulic topout feature anyway - eg the CCDB, BOS etc. Not the end of the earth to miss that one.
If you put a top-out spacer between the seal head and the main piston (ie inside the shock) it'll reduce the stroke (and eye to eye) by changing the top-out position rather than bottom-out position. Completely reversible. If you actually cut down the shock body you'd risk the piston bottoming out internally before the bottom-out bumper did.
Very interesting. I had a shock that PUSH cut down but I am guessing there was more to it that simply cutting the body down. Anyway, thanks for the education
Note to self: run all suspension related postings by Socket before posting on the interweb.
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