[92SE-R]

My 2010 Boxxer Team is way harsh and spikes for me. I'm about 155 geared up and using the yellow spring and sag is perfect. I want to try my hand at playing with the shim stack to try to see if I can get it to open up more on HSC. I measured and got the current shim stack profile from my 2010 compression damper. I found the 2011 stack profile online and was wondering what you guys would recommend changing for my weight. Just for reference, this is the 2010 stack profile and the 2011 stack profile.

It looks like 2011 got rid of a lot of the 0.15 thick shims and replaced them with more 0.1 thick shims I assume for some more small bump sensitivity. Thanks for any advice you guys have.

Also, does total stack height have to be pretty close? Or can you change that a bit?

2010

10x0.4
14x0.15
14x0.15
16.5x0.15
20x0.11
20x0.11
20x0.15

Total stack height: 1.22mm

2011

10x0.4
14x0.1
20x0.1
20x0.1
20x0.1
20x0.15
14x0.1
16x0.1
20x0.1

Total stack height: 1.25mm

 

[armada]

what if you first tried with lighter oil?

 

[92SE-R]

I'm already trying Redline 2.5wt oil. It helped a tad, but not that much.

 

[troy]

Easiest way to do this would be reducing oil viscosity, but it would alter other settings. If You want to mess with stack, but You don't have any spare shims, You can reduce OD of this 10x0.4 shim-it will make the stack softer. You have to remember about clamping force. The more force will You use tightening the stack, the more damping You will get .

If You want to change shims, remove those 2-14x0.15 and put 3-14x0.1

 

[Steve M]

Total stack height isn't critical, the variations are more than covered by the amount of adjustment in the HSC dial (it can adjust the preload on the spring by several millimetres, 0.03mm diff is nothing).

Interesting that's the stack config they're using in the 2011 though, that's some seriously weird stuff going on. Are you sure the shim order is correct, ie the shim clamped directly against the face of the piston is actually 10mm OD, and the one behind that is 14mm OD? Cos honestly... that is a VERY strange setup!

 

[troy]

Socket , face shims are 20mm OD on both setups : p

 

[Commencal-guy]

I believe the 2010's are a single stage stack and the 2011 is a 2 stage stack, however the performance difference in both are barely noticeable. You can get a single stage stack to perform just as good as any 2 stage stack.

I don't recommend using lighter weight oil. It will still spike on high speed hits, I recommend switching out some of the shims or lighter ones/ maybe take 1 or even 2 out.

playing with oil weight will also effect the forks rebound characteristics.

 

[Commencal-guy]

UDI or RUFNUT can help you out. I remember there was a thread about this a bit back.

 

[Supa8]

I am the same at 155 and moved down to the Xsoft spring as no matter what I could not get the soft spring tuned right. It would top out and I could not get full travel (no drop stop installed). My current settings are below and has been perfect for me on fast boulder chop to tight steep woods. Bike 011 Demo 8 slack setting. I feel at my weight I am between springs a bit but the slacker bike has my weight a bit back more.

X-soft spring three pre-load spacers. (fork stock on bike came this way)


8 clicks LSC
4 clicks HSC
LSR mid point
HSR 12 clicks
Stock 5wt. for the MICO side at the RS recommended volume.

 

[92SE-R]

The 10x0.4mm shim I feel like it doesn't do anything other than space the shim stack off a lip that it rides on. If I took it off, the shim stack would just sit on a solid lip and would have the same overall stiffness. Just what it seems like to me, but I'm new at this so what do I know.

I think I'm going to try this setup so I can use the existing shims and see if my assumptions are correct.

10x0.4
14x0.15
20x0.11
20x0.15
14x0.15
20x0.11

Thoughts?

Easiest way to do this would be reducing oil viscosity, but it would alter other settings. If You want to mess with stack, but You don't have any spare shims, You can reduce OD of this 10x0.4 shim-it will make the stack softer. You have to remember about clamping force. The more force will You use tightening the stack, the more damping You will get .

If You want to change shims, remove those 2-14x0.15 and put 3-14x0.1

 

[92SE-R]

So you felt like we were in between spring rates? I was strictly going by sag in the attack position and I'm smack dab between the indicators on the stantion. With the Xsoft spring, where are you sagged at? Thanks.

I am the same at 155 and moved down to the Xsoft spring as no matter what I could not get the soft spring tuned right. It would top out and I could not get full travel (no drop stop installed). My current settings are below and has been perfect for me on fast boulder chop to tight steep woods. Bike 011 Demo 8 slack setting. I feel at my weight I am between springs a bit but the slacker bike has my weight a bit back more.

X-soft spring three pre-load spacers. (fork stock on bike came this way)


8 clicks LSC
4 clicks HSC
LSR mid point
HSR 12 clicks
Stock 5wt. for the MICO side at the RS recommended volume.

 

[Steve M]

Socket , face shims are 20mm OD on both setups : p

haha right, shims are listed in reverse order... I was looking at the first couple wondering WTF was going on!

 

[Supa8]

So you felt like we were in between spring rates? I was strictly going by sag in the attack position and I'm smack dab between the indicators on the stantion. With the Xsoft spring, where are you sagged at? Thanks.

With LSC and HSC wide open (full soft setting) for setting up sag I am getting 30% sag with the three preload spacers with the xsoft spring. I found with the soft spring I was getting just about 20% sag with one preload spacer. With the soft spring it seemed I could only run one click LSC and 1-2 clicks HSC. When I ran less than the one click of LSC the fork spiked a bit. I tried all sorts of compression and rebound settings but just could not get the fork right.

Now I have that mix of great traction, fast rebound and it ramps up decent deeper into the travel. The 8 clicks of LSC keep the fork from diving in the slower steep sections. I have not bottomed the fork yet with the Xsoft spring and the settings I posted earlier. My fork is a 2010 MICO with the upgraded rebound assembly. I have an early 2010 fork.

 

[92SE-R]

I'm actually getting close to 30% sag already on my bike with the yellow spring. Just put the new shimstack in. Will go for a ride tomorrow or sometime this week to check itout. Thanks for the input guys.

 

[RUFNUT]

UDI or RUFNUT can help you out. I remember there was a thread about this a bit back.

The problem with my 2011 WC in the end was the air balance valve not equlizing the negative air side. With that fixed the fork improve massivley.

I realy cant see that the HSC stack or HSC needle and seat can causeing spiking as they are built so wide open. The HSC stack does not even 100% seal on its seat there is a .5mm air gap around the O.D of the face shim and the HSC at full compresion has a orithis you can fit your thist through.

After the harshness problem caused by the air balance valve was fixed I still had a dive problem. With HSC and HSC fully on you could feel little diffrence even pushing on any 2011 WC fork I tryed.

I tryed many combinations of HSC stacks and diffrent oil weights too have no gain.

In the end I machined the seat for the HSC stack so it had 100% seal and modified the HSC needle and seat to give it close to a 2mm orithis when adjusted to full compression.

Now the fork is great you can feel diffrence in each adjustment and have them both close to mid range of there ajustment. I cant remember the stack I ended up running but it was singel stage. I have it writen down.

Sorry this doesnt help with your fork but it will help you understand the system. Sorry about the spelling.