zedro said:you mean besides welding everything together?
i guess you could try sleeve retaining compounds, but really i prefer to just twist them back with my legs after it happens (looseing everything is not necessary)
didnt say its a bad idea, just not entirely necessary for a quick trailside fix (especially if it happens alot, so you dont nedlessly wear the bolt heads). Would be a good idea at the end of the day tho.Mattoid said:So you just grab the wheel with your knees and twist the fork back?? I think loosening and then tightening wouldnt be a bad idea....
probably as many Monsters as Shivers been broken. The upper legs on the Shiver are slightly bigger than the Monsters BTW, so i wouldnt worry.bigkonarider said:Has anyone ever broke a Shiver ?
Like a major breakage in the legs or something ?
I just got a 01 SHIVER & this thread doesn't give me super-confidence in it.
Maybe i should get back my 02 Monster-T ?
standard M6x1.0mack said:BTW, do ur shiver bolts every seem to stip very easily, i want ot buy some new bolts for them but dont know what pitch to get, any one know wich degree pitch the bolts are?
the lower and upper tubes are connected together; if they deflect too much the lower crown will twist out of alignment from the upper crownmack said:i dont see how the uppers can move in their crowns, as they arent atached to the lowers by twist motions, AKA< u can trun the lowers around when the axle is out.
Oh yeah and fork up a minimum of 1495 for the DHF 7... wait thats not that badBikeFan84 said:do you have an itegrated stem, I've found that with a normal stem, the stem will actually twist. This is good in a way, not putting excess stress onto the fork itself, or kill the shiver and get an AVY
bigkonarider said:Has anyone ever broke a Shiver ?
Like a major breakage in the legs or something ?
I just got a 01 SHIVER & this thread doesn't give me super-confidence in it.
Maybe i should get back my 02 Monster-T ?
Take a shiver.. remove the front wheel, loosen all the crown bolts off a bit, then stand in front of the bike. Grab one leg, pull it forward, push the other leg back. You'll see it all twist as the crowns rotate.mack said:i dont see how the uppers can move in their crowns
Had an Avy, happens there too.BikeFan84 said:do you have an itegrated stem, I've found that with a normal stem, the stem will actually twist. This is good in a way, not putting excess stress onto the fork itself, or kill the shiver and get an AVY
Great answer! Trade one inverted fork for another that's going to twist. Craig didn't make a new thicker lower crown for nothing.BikeFan84 said:, or kill the shiver and get an AVY
That's a pretty good idea!leprechaun said:I don't recomend this but on my Risky Chump i used to ride i drilled a hole through the upper crown and into the sterrer and threaded the steerer and ran a bolt into it. It actually worked!
exept you better make sure your headset is properly adjusted, and never ever change the spacing.ChrisRobin said:That's a pretty good idea!
Or make the holes oval's Now we're talking ghetto! But it does sound like a good idea. I found that if/when my legs twist I need to clean them with alcohol or degreaser. My theory is that grease from the pinch bolts gets between the leg and the crown. If I do not clean it it'll keep twisting. Its creepy to loosen the bolts and hear the fork unload.zedro said:exept you better make sure your headset is properly adjusted, and never ever change the spacing.
does your theory assume everyone greases their bolts?Repack said:My theory is that grease from the pinch bolts gets between the leg and the crown. If I do not clean it it'll keep twisting.
Its why I stopped. I take your and raise youzedro said:does your theory assume everyone greases their bolts?