[Matt D]

What is the freakin deal with the bolts/crowns for the Slider+?!:angry:

I heard the crappy little 4mm bolts were soft and should be replaced, but I stripped the bolt and it wasn't even screwed in all the way yet!!!!

It took me 3 hours of cursing to get ONE bolt out!
Lost in the struggle:
1 EZ out
1 bit
1 dremel cutting disc
1 New finish on uppor crown
1 POS stock bolt

Here's where the bolt started to resist turning:

 

[Matt D]

First cut didn't rounded off, luckily the second worked.

I had to apply mad pressure pushing a flat head screwdriver into the cut while a roommate turned a wrench on the screwdriver for more torque. It didn't stopping resisting until the very last thread.

 

[dexterq20]

Wow, that's uber-sh!tty. Did you hit up the hardware store for some new bolts?

 

[Matt D]

I've replaced all the bolts with SS 5 mm bolts (SS 4's on the axle bolts).

Should I call Answer and tell them what happened? Ask for a new upper crown since I scratched and cut this one? I'm not worried about it structurally by any means. I already called before this ordeal to see if they had replacement bolts to send me. The guy was happy to send me the same ones, but what good would that do me?

I haven't chased the threads yet b/c if I sent it back they'd want to see the original stuff.

What do you all think?

 

[denjen]

Makes you want to cry doesnt it. I just did the same thing to my brand new boxxer about two weeks ago. In addition to scratching the crown I nicked my stantion when the first bit broke from apppling to much pressure. What I did was take one of every size bolt out of the fork. Go to a fastener store and replaced them with hardened steel bolts. I bought enough bolts to do two boxxers for $5. Just look in the yellow pages under fastener. If you cant find any in Charlottesville let me know there are plenty of them in Richmond

never mind you beat me to it

 

[Rik]

4mm allen key heads don't belong on bicycles, especially on forks and stems (oh how I hate stems with 4mm allen heads :angry: )

 

[thaflyinfatman]

Are you sure it wasn't cross-threaded? If it was resisting the whole way, it sounds like it may have been.

Either way, that's no fun eh

 

[Rik]

Originally posted by thaflyinfatman
Are you sure it wasn't cross-threaded?

Sounds like it to me... I thought you can't really strip a thread without applying excess pressure, but you can crossthread aluminium fairly easily. And helicoiling that would be a pain in the arse!

 

[Zaskar Rider]

Every once in a while you get a manitou that needs a thread chased with a tap. I got one of those the other day while i was building bikes at the shop. I think it's just a reality of things that come off a production line.

 

[lanman]

Originally posted by Zaskar Rider
Every once in a while you get a manitou that needs a thread chased with a tap. I got one of those the other day while i was building bikes at the shop. I think it's just a reality of things that come off a production line.

It's nice to read someone who is actually considering that they can't catch every little thing (although I know it's not "little" because its a major bolt, but a bad tap can be hard to catch), and cutting them a little slack. I'm sure Manitou will take care of you, just bring it to your shop.

 

[TWISTED]

I broke the head off the rotor bolt on my brand new sun ringle' suv's front. Sucks!

 

[MMike]

Originally posted by Zaskar Rider
Every once in a while you get a manitou that needs a thread chased with a tap. I got one of those the other day while i was building bikes at the shop. I think it's just a reality of things that come off a production line.

That would be my guess. Just a burr or some crap in the theads. Everything seems fine, then all of a sudden, screw gets stuck, then it would go in OR out... Just bad luck. You just have to be....sigh... "uber careful" with threads in aluminum....

 

[BMXman]

first thing I did when I got my Slider + was to remove all the bolts and grease them...the threads were totally dry and I had to remove a few burs as well....D

 

[1000-Oaks]

Originally posted by Matt D
I've replaced all the bolts with SS 5 mm bolts (SS 4's on the axle bolts).

Stainless bolts are nowhere near as strong as metric grade 12.9 bolts, probably not even as strong as the metric 10.9 graded hardware.

I'd put some high grade bolts in there instead, even if they only come with black oxide coating.

http://www.nutty.com/metsoccap.html

 

[Matt D]

It wasn't cross threaded, I've been working on bikes enough years to know that. And if I remember correctly the bolts were already threaded in 1/2 way from the factory. I'll chase the threads tonight to clean out any burs.

You're right about QC not being able to catch every little thing. I'll call Answer back and tell them what happened, see if they can ship me a new crown and I'll ship the old one back when it arrives.

I guess this is really just a rant, and I suppose a warning to all future Slider+ owners to change the stock bolts before you even install the fork.

 

[eastcoastzigzag]

Originally posted by thaflyinfatman
Are you sure it wasn't cross-threaded? If it was resisting the whole way, it sounds like it may have been.

Either way, that's no fun eh

----------- ALL bolt should b put in ny hand first to start them. NO exceptions. good luck man

 

[Matt D]

So I finally got time last night to chase the threads. There was a lot of crap that came out, little burs and metal dust mainly. The threads were not crossthreaded, and the new bolts work MUCH better. stupid soft 4mm....

For any new Slider owner, I would recommend first replacing all the bolts with 5mm's, then chasing all the threads to clean them up, and greasing all the bolts.

No I have one whole day to get used the fork before the MC race

 

[Repack]

Wow, your situation sucks.

Could the bolt have been loctited? If so, heat works wonders.

 

[Threepointtwo]

I have had 2 Slider + forks (one is for sale cheap) and had to replace all of the bolts too. They used really soft bolts - shame on them. Otherwise, its a great fork.

 

[punkassean]

My first slider came with a "factory" stripped upper bolt just like yours, The bolts was started at the factory and immediately when I tried to tighten it it just spun. I called Manitou and they sent me a new crown N/C, plus I was able to get a drop crown since I need it to correct the geo. of the short fork. I wasn't asked at the time of purchase (direct from Manitou) if I wanted a reg. crown or drop....FWIW, I replaced every bolt on my Sherman ASAP with black 5mm bolts and lots of grease. Wimpy bolts, great fork.

 

[Transfer]

They don't grease those things at the factory. They expect you to remove and grease when you install it but never tell you. Really lame. Marzocchi does it too.

 

[Ifelloffabike]

I replaced the axel pinchbolts on my sherman jumper when i stripped one out. Wierd that they put such soft bolts in a spot that gets tightened and loosened so much

 

[mobius]

What is with forks and bolts. On my 04 super t when building my bike mr castle breaks the bolt that goes on the QR20 clamp and later on a week later i am tightening the 2nd bolt down and barely turn and it pops right out. 50 dollars has been put to two bolts for my supert.


She better be nice tmrw at snowshoe on her first real ride or im gonna cry.

 

[Ifelloffabike]

Originally posted by mobius
What is with forks and bolts. On my 04 super t when building my bike mr castle breaks the bolt that goes on the QR20 clamp and later on a week later i am tightening the 2nd bolt down and barely turn and it pops right out. 50 dollars has been put to two bolts for my supert.


She better be nice tmrw at snowshoe on her first real ride or im gonna cry.

$50


what!?

 

[mobius]

Originally posted by Ifelloffabike
$50


what!?

25$ a bolt at shop cost. 35$ retail.

 

[Joe]

You needed some mole grips.

bad luck, i hate **** bolts, especially when you pay lots of money for stuff

 

[Discostu]

Originally posted by 1000-Oaks
Stainless bolts are nowhere near as strong as metric grade 12.9 bolts, probably not even as strong as the metric 10.9 graded hardware.

I'd put some high grade bolts in there instead, even if they only come with black oxide coating.

http://www.nutty.com/metsoccap.html

I always go to uncle nutty for my bolt needs too. Very satisfied with my 12.9 grade shock bolts, much tougher than the stainless a2 stock ones.

 

[Ifelloffabike]

Originally posted by mobius
25$ a bolt at shop cost. 35$ retail.

you couldnt find them at a hardware store for 25 cents?

 

[Shanks]

Ive toasted so many bolts its unreal...... a good tip for soft alan bolts. go find a torx bit, hammer it in. and turn it out.

 

[mobius]

Originally posted by Ifelloffabike
you couldnt find them at a hardware store for 25 cents?

Nope they are the bolts for the QR20 clamps on the 04 forks which are some weird pressed bolt. So they dont have them at hardware stores.