I am OCD about wrenching (and everything else except reading comprehension, and english composition ) and my BB7's do this, my Juicy 7 rear occasionally throws a warble; and the Shop mech I ride with - his 5's sounded like a crazed watery grumbling kookoo sound yesterday. Stuff works great, but there is definitely something to that complaint, and Ive heard a boatload of others with same comments/complaints.I'm so tired of reading reviews that bag out a particular brake because it squeals. Any brake will squeal if it is contaminated.
Dude, its a bike park in sussex county which is known for rolling hills. It is a different type of riding and fairly local.Diablo free ride park... love the lift. hate that i gotta work so hard to get going fast. Very flat.
Uhhhhh, I think you need to learn how to carry speed through turns/features/obstacles. If there's one thing that park is not, it's slow.Diablo free ride park... love the lift. hate that i gotta work so hard to get going fast. Very flat.
LG1 impossible to adjust, loud, dropped chains. Don't bother with it.
I think you need to go to mount snow, diablow is slow.Uhhhhh, I think you need to learn how to carry speed through turns/features/obstacles. If there's one thing that park is not, it's slow.
Trust me ive ridden fast trails. All we have is fast smooth wide open trails in socal right? Diablo isnt that steep, true. That doesn't make it slow though. Although i rode it a few years ago, maybe my definition of 'fast' back then was pretty slo, ha haI think you need to go to mount snow, diablow is slow.
I don't really see where that comes from, there are a few courses every year that are like that but for the most part there's always at least some high speed sections.Last I heard the east coast was all "slow and technical"...
I can't fault WTB's engagement system (although a few years back there was some issues). The "paper clip" doesn't ever see any load actually as once the pawls make contact there is no stress on it. But it sure does look funny. My issue w/ their rear hubs is with the bearings. There really isn't a easy way to adjust them and when they do wear out you discover that they used some backasswards funny size.haha, yeah alab just doesnt get that the bearings are kinda important, looks only go so far, hahaha, yeah mine was actually an 06 as well, the replacment was sold for a boxxer which is still on my brothers bike and going strong! but fox's cs was great, so props there.
oh and while its on my mind, wtb hubs, holy wow, specifically the rear, i was stoked that they were so light, but when i opened that pos up and found a "paper clip" was the primary engagment mech i was over it, i mean come on, you dont have to be a rocket scientist to understand that a paper clip isnt the best engagment method, yaya rant over, but seriously sh1ty hubs
I never understood that one either, but the guide works well, until you nail the boomerang or jam the chain behind the ring enough times for it to start flexing a lot, then it becomes problematic. Extreme circumstance though.Gamut chainguide: Metric and Imperial bolts? Really? maybe this has been addressed in current models, but I figured I'd post it again out of frustration. That being said, it does a good job of keeping the chain on.
Horsepoop.Fox Forks
Garbage seals. And the 3 position TALAS system isn't very versatile if your bike is optimum between one of the travel settings. They need to have the infinite adjust option.
I can feel the difference in 5mm with my Uturn fork. 30mm is huge.Horsepoop.
The seals blow just like every other fork, it happens. Deal with it. Saying that you can't find the optimum spot between 160-130-100 is a classic example of a rider blaming the equipment. You really think that if you can change things 15mm instead of 30mm its going to make all the difference in the world? It won't make anywhere near the difference people might convince themselves it will.
And how can RockShox forks be under rated when every MTB site and magazine out there gives them top marks? Short of showing up at RS headquarters and blowing everybody in the R&D dept, how much more praise can they get for building kickass forks?
I'm with you on that man. I have a extra firm spring in and am using a whole lot of compression and it still is soft.Add one more to the list:
This may not be in key with everybody else's experience, but I could never get my Pike to feel good. No matter what I did, it dove like crazy. X-Firm spring, lots of compression, whatever. Had to have it almost locked out to feel right, and then it would deflect off of smaller hits. Just never felt right to me. I do not have this problem with my Lyrik at all, unless I dial out the LSC too far.
Somebody else mentioned that the older Boxxers (06-09) were not the greatest choice for a bigger rider. Maybe this is something to do with the Motion Control internals themselves?
I can see what you mean, but I think you might be missing the point of TALAS. Its a during-ride travel adjustment to accommodate the trails you are on. The U-turn is a ride height adjustment, much different. One is on the fly, one is stop and drop. For what its intended for, I love the TALAS system. It works super well. The RS equivalent is the 2step, which is now fixed and works great, but doesn't offer that mid travel option. I found that I rode my TALAS in 5 inch mode for most of the time.I can feel the difference in 5mm with my Uturn fork. 30mm is huge.
Magazines give everything props if they advertise in their mag.
Based on riders, seems like a lot of people hold higher praise for Fox than RS in my experience. well... that is until their fork is jizzing oil on the 5th ride.
snip...in really technical terrain, the 40 is a bit much, wouldn't you say..? A little too massive and monster truck-y???
Rode a boxxer for the first time last summer...seems like the smaller stanchions are bit more "agile" ? in hyper tech stuff, the 40 can be hard to get it to do what you want it to do...very forgiving of nose-dives and nose heavy landings tho...any thoughts????
I think that's a perfectly legitimate concern, at least concerning the LG1 style guides (I haven't set up any of the new ones yet). The time and effort required to 1) space it out installing the cranks a couple of times and 2) just removing the cranks is a gigantic pain in the ass with the LG1 and the G2 guides. I don't like having the chainring exposed to the side like that at all for a half a piss worth of weight savings, but the fact that it makes basic maintenance and setup that much more of a hassle explains why I've never found either of those guides on my bike, and never will.Any Chainguide- They all set up in more or less the same way, if it rubs it's either your fault or your frame's. The E13s offer more adjustability than the competitors in that you can change the boomerang angle, so if anything they are easier to get really dialed. There are some frames that work better with other guides, mostly because they have pivots and hardware that stick out too much and get in the way, that's not E13's fault. "Hard to set up" isn't a legitimate criticism. I can't believe I'm agreeing with Frasier on something....
Amen brother. As for Intense frames being crooked, I dunno. I do know that my socom was so flexy in the back that you had to push the drop outs together to thread the wheel in; for what its worth.Any Chainguide- They all set up in more or less the same way, if it rubs it's either your fault or your frame's. The E13s offer more adjustability than the competitors in that you can change the boomerang angle, so if anything they are easier to get really dialed. There are some frames that work better with other guides, mostly because they have pivots and hardware that stick out too much and get in the way, that's not E13's fault. "Hard to set up" isn't a legitimate criticism. I can't believe I'm agreeing with Frasier on something....
Agreed, believe it or not the Transition chainguide is one of the simplest to setup and most bullet proof I have seen or used, not to mention its cheap, basic, and comes in sweet colors.I think that's a perfectly legitimate concern, at least concerning the LG1 style guides (I haven't set up any of the new ones yet). The time and effort required to 1) space it out installing the cranks a couple of times and 2) just removing the cranks is a gigantic pain in the ass with the LG1 and the G2 guides. I don't like having the chainring exposed to the side like that at all for a half a piss worth of weight savings, but the fact that it makes basic maintenance and setup that much more of a hassle explains why I've never found either of those guides on my bike, and never will.
For the SRS style guides and the Gamut and MRP S3, they're dead easy and quick and offer great protection. I never ever have to think about the guides again, even when removing the cranks. But they weigh soooooo much more...