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Tips and Tricks

Discussion in 'The Shop' started by Westy, Jan 6, 2007.

  1. Westy

    Westy the teste

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    Thought folks could post their little tips and tricks for working on bikes they have learned over time.

    Here are a few of mine

    -Put the bike in the big ring when wrenching so if you bump the chainring you don't tear yourself up.

    -Those marinating syringes that can be found at the grocery store are great for measuring and filling forks with oil during rebuilds.

    -Superglue can be used to fix small punctures in tubeless tires that sealant might not be able to seal without taking the tire off. Find the hole an pinch the tire so it opens up the puncture, clean it off the best you can and put a drop of SG in the hole. Give it a few seconds to dry and filler up.

    -Trying to get tubeless or NoTubes tires to seat on the rim can sometimes be a bitch. Pinch the sidewalls and get the bead to rest on the larger diameter of the rim before inflating. Go all around the tire and do both sides. While inflating smack the tire to get the bead to seat.
     
    #1 -   Jan 6, 2007
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  2. mastercycleman

    mastercycleman Turbo Monkey

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    i wear some mechanix gloves sometimes, it helps keep my hands from being covered with grease, especially if i need to go somewhere afterwords.
     
    #2 -   Jan 7, 2007
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  3. Quo Fan

    Quo Fan don't make me kick your ass

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    To get some tires to seat with Stans, I stretch a tube around the outside of the tire. This pushes the bead to the rim and forms a seal so the air can inflate the tire.

    I grease each and every screw, bolt and nut I put on any of my bikes.

    When bleeding hydraulic brakes, I wear rubber gloves. Protects my hands way better than my mechanics gloves and my mechanics gloves don't get soaked in hydraulic fluid.
     
    #3 -   Jan 7, 2007
  4. Westy

    Westy the teste

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    Using moisturizer on your hands before you work on something greasy will make it easier to wash them later. Dry skin will absorb grime better.
     
    #4 -   Jan 7, 2007
  5. giantrider89

    giantrider89 Monkey

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    Don't throw away a couple old spokes, sharpen one end with a grinding wheel or something and you've got yourself a poker! Sounds stupid, but it actually turns out to be really useful...especially for opening up the ends of cable housings after cutting....
     
    #5 -   Jan 9, 2007
  6. BikeMike

    BikeMike Monkey

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    Also you can make a spoke nipple holder/starter for building single eyleted rims. Thread a short nipple all the way onto a spoke so the threads poke out far enough to engage another nipple from the top. Cut the spoke down to a managable size, and bend it however you want. No more nipples dropped into the rim's inner cavity!
     
    #6 -   Jan 9, 2007
  7. loco-gringo

    loco-gringo Crusading Clamp Monkey

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    I powdered the inside of the rim ever so slightly when installing Stan's strips on some Rolf Satellites today. Not enough to let things really move, but just enough to let them move a little. I don't know if this is recommended, but it made things super simple. I used a light rubbing of citrus spray to lube the bead. It went flawlessly. These strips are way better than the originals, IMO.
     
  8. Quo Fan

    Quo Fan don't make me kick your ass

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    Use baby powder when mounting a tire with a tube. Coat the inside of the tire with baby powder, it allows the tube to move inside the tire, and if you have to remove the tube to patch it, it comes out easily.
     
  9. Dirtbike

    Dirtbike Monkey

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    Bend a spoke into this shape, making a loop in the middle for a handle. You can use it to hold a chain under tension while you grab the chain tool off your workbench, or grab the powerlinks.

    The image is just a little bit bigger than life size.
     
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  10. Dh_Addict44

    Dh_Addict44 Chimp

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    That is actually a good idea, i hate it when im at the shop and the chain flys off when im reaching for the breaker. I will have to make one of those.
     
  11. GumbaFish

    GumbaFish Turbo Monkey

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    Wow yeah that happens to me as well, nice idea.
     
  12. Sorgie

    Sorgie Monkey

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    -Go to the pharmacy and ask for a plastic syringe with a curved tip (10 or 20cc I believe). They usually just give them to you. The ones with a curved tip are great for getting into hard to reach areas like rear der. pivots.

    -I find that the knurled Torx wrench for the Avid rotors is a pain to work with. I slide a small diameter deep well socket over the long arm to give myself more to hang onto.

    -When you remove your rear wheel, instead of going to the smallest cog, move the chain up to the third smallest (7 for those w/ 9 spd.). It gets the der. out of the way and makes it much easier.
     
  13. Biscuit

    Biscuit Turbo Monkey

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    Freaking brilliant! I must try.
     
  14. spincrazy

    spincrazy I love to climb

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    Sometimes I will wear latex gloves to ease the clean up when wrenching.

    Pledge does wonders to clean the bike up when you can't get everything wet. Some say it keeps it cleaner in the long run. Been awhile since I've used it.
     
  15. gonefirefightin

    gonefirefightin free wieners

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    I will make a tube repair/chain kit and stuff it to fit in my bars behind the lock on grips. wrap it with rag material so it doesnt move around and tie a string around it so you can pull it out when in need.

    I put small clear adhesive dots on my frame to prevent rubbing cables from rubbing off the paint (or stickers)

    i as well use pledge for bike clean up, it seems to make a wax like effect to mud as well. it beads up and fall off when dry.
     
  16. Dartman

    Dartman Old Bastard Mike

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    They're also good for squirting water or alcohol under a stubborn grip to help it slide off easier.

    I got mine after getting my wisdom teeth yanked.

    Mike
     
  17. soreback

    soreback Chimp

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    i do the powder in the tire trick..., it works good
     
  18. $tinkle

    $tinkle Expert on blowing

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    take 'before' pictures when working w/ lots of non-intuitively interactive* parts. have wife on-hand to navigate the computer (your hands are filthy).


    *alternatively, botch the job a few times & it becomes intuitive, but for the wrong reasons
     
  19. urbaindk

    urbaindk The Real Dr. Science

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    We just had a baby and I subsequently discovered that Pampers brand moisturizing wipes kick ass for cleaning small parts and wiping down your frame. There's a little silicone oil in them. Makes stuff nice and shiny and they really pick up grease. They are pretty durable, much more so than a paper towel, strong enough to wipe a chain with out disintegrating. One or two will do a whole frame if it's not to dirty.

    Wipe warmer optional, but a nice bonus. Who likes clammy cold wipes anyway?

    Also for you that don't like dirty hands, I highly recommend Mechanics GOOP. It's available at any car parts store. If you haven't tried it, it's amazing. Just keep the tub near by. Dip some on your fingers, rub and wipe off on a rag, hands are clean and good to go. Great if you are doing something greasy but might need clean hands in the middle of the task. Saves you from running back and forth to the sink in the middle of a job. Does a hell of a lot better job than soap, and is less hard on your hands than laundry detergent or gasoline.
     
  20. Sorgie

    Sorgie Monkey

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    I just discovered a new one last night for all those scuffs and fine scratches on your frame. Go to the hobby store and get some Testors enamel for model cars (it was easy for me because my bike is flat black, so your mileage may vary).
    Take an old T-shirt or something similar with no lint. Put it over your finger and dab a little bit on the rag. Then "buff" it over the scratched area. The scratches fill in, no brush marks, no globs. I can't even tell anything was there. If you can't find paint that matches maybe rubbing some thinner over it after it dries would help blend it.
     
  21. MMcG

    MMcG Ride till you puke!

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    IF not, this thread should become a sticky.
     
  22. -dustin

    -dustin boring

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    long piece of small tubing to be used as a sheath when routing new internal cables and housing.
     
  23. chinkerjuarez

    chinkerjuarez Monkey

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    The hayes bleed kit is horrible make your own. Instead of using the bottle to force the fluid use a syringe to force the fluid through the lines and up to the master cylinder. The hose fits the syringe better and the fit is tight enough to where it doesn't pop off like it does sometimes with the bottle.

    Syringes are also good to recycle stans. They serve many purposes
     
  24. trailblazer

    trailblazer Monkey

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    tubeless myths......1-crazy glue seals...wrong. it falls off after it gets hard and the tyre moves around.
    ............................2-use soapy bubbles to help seat/seal-the soap negates Stan's sealant and converts it into useless milk.
    ............................3-you have to overinflate the tyre to seat/seal-wrong-this hamfist technique streaches the bead and makes it into a cincher that requires a tube by ruining the UST bead. Use sense here and just inflate the tyre with no more than 50psi and a compressor in never needed and should be avoided.
    tubeless solutions:
    ...1-a small hole will seal itself using Stan's properly
    ....2-a bigger hole, say, the size of a presta pin- I carry Q-tips in my fix it case. Use the fluff from one with some Stan's and jam it into the hole.
    ....3-big holes-1/4" and bigger- Use a tube patch kit and address the hole like you do a car tyre. Clean it out and push a piece of rubber drenched in rubber glue into the hole 1/2 way and let it dry. I don't even cut off the extra it just gets rubbed off. This is just to get you home. A huge as* hole ruins tyres and it's time for new rubber.


    tip # 2- if you lost a bolt from your shoe[cleat] then use one of your rotor bolts. They fit.
     
  25. nutter

    nutter Chimp

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    if you want to get grips on or off easily, without cutting them or using anything messy, use compressed air to slide them on. takes a bit of practice, but makes it a lot easier, and takes a fraction of the time
     
  26. BikeMike

    BikeMike Monkey

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    Ooohh. With compressed air you can also shoot grips really far. I managed to send one about 35 feet (which placed it squarely in the front of the shop) and I wasn't even trying. It's also possible to make a grip launcher by cutting a piece off an old handlebar, if one were ever so inclined.

    If you don't have compressed air available, a needle (blunted) and syringe with isopropyl alcohol in it can help loosen up grips.
     
  27. ultraNoob

    ultraNoob Yoshinoya Destroyer

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    Lubricating "sealed bearings"

    We know they're not reallllllly sealed, but what the hey, they stay cleaner longer than unsealed. I attach the bearing to a shop vac and suck lube directly into the bearings. Optional coaxing can be performed by using a needle to gently lift the seal away from the bearing shaft or bearing race, allowing more lube to get in. Wet lube or a high viscosity grease works great.
     
  28. $tinkle

    $tinkle Expert on blowing

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    first post of the thread.
    first tip of the post.

    it's like a friggin' cocktail party where you forget the first chick's name you meet:

    and after all this to replace what i thought were SPDs turned out to be ritchies....and i can't find the cleats.


    ** pre-emptive edit: "attached thumbnail" - heh.
    it's like rain on a slippery rock
     

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  29. MtnbikeMike

    MtnbikeMike Turbo Monkey

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    I find it easier to use a hobby knife to remove both seals, clean the crud out with something like Clean Streak, allow to dry, then re-grease and replace the seals.
     
  30. sunnerbeanmtb

    sunnerbeanmtb Monkey

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    Have a rusty bolt that wont budge? A bottom bracket that wont come out?

    Use soda (I prefer coke) and poor it on or around the rusty or corroded area. Ive poored coke down seat tubes before to get bottom brackets out. It is magic.
     
  31. Rob Munro

    Rob Munro Monkey

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    pros will think this is stupid, but guys like me that only change pedals once, maybe twice per year may find it handy. to remember which pedal is reverse threaded, I remember "back tire backs out". meaning, of course, that you spin the wrench toward the back tire to loosen the pedals. sounds dumb, but it saved me many stripped threads and busted knuckles, not to mention, you don't want to look like a dork when everyone is watching.
     
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  32. Green Flame

    Green Flame Chimp

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    Heres a good one. Instead of using a normal derailuer housing end at the rear derailuer. A v-brake noodle works great instead. They fit perfectly inside the barrel adjusters.
     
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  33. Wumpus

    Wumpus makes avatars better

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    From Car!os on Bikemojo...

     
  34. Wumpus

    Wumpus makes avatars better

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    ERD part 2

     
  35. $tinkle

    $tinkle Expert on blowing

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    if nothing else, this thread has made my decision to give my bike to someone barnett's certified easy
     
  36. 46chief

    46chief Monkey

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    coke/pepsi etc. is a bicarbonate, you can use it to clean your battery terminals on your car as well. You can also mix baking soda and water to get the same result with less stickiness.
     
  37. spencer-from-uk

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    simple yet effective...


    if a crank bolt wont come off, try just placing the ratchet on the bolt get a metal pipe to go over the handle of the ratchet this way you get ALOT more leverage and it is waaayy easier.
     
  38. dmilkman589

    dmilkman589 Chimp

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    dont take the hole bike apart at once to rebuild you might lose bolts i did
     
  39. Arkayne

    Arkayne I come bearing GIFs

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    I keep a portable air tank in my trunk if I'm going to do a muddy trail ride. When I get back to the car, I do a quick scrub and rinse from water bottles and brush and then blow off the water with the BlowGun attachment. It beats having the mud dry into cement just in case you get lazy when you get home and don't want to clean.

     
  40. $tinkle

    $tinkle Expert on blowing

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    i take it you're rather skilled at upgrading/replacing bearings & seals, then?