[Zagreus]

Having a little left-over money from 2009s budget, I am looking to invest in an upgrade on my bike. All things considered, I am relatively new to mountain-biking (had about 18 months on the trail, 4+ days per week, no off-season) and not sure where my money would be best spent. I have about $350 left after my brake/lever upgrade.


My primary goal is to ease the climb (though all suggestions are welcome). I do about 9-12 uphill miles worth of mixed single-track/fire-road 5-6 mornings per week, and would really love to lighten it up-- perhaps by lightening up my wheelset? using a new tire-set for better climbing traction? a low-normal/rapid-rise derailleur? new crankset?

My current bike is a Kona Blast with the following specs:
Frame [stock]: Kona All-Mountain
Fork [upgraded]: RockShox Dart 3 w/ remote lockout
Front Derailleur [stock]: Shimano Acera
Rear Derailleur [stock]: Shimano Deore
Shifters [stock]: Shimano Acera
Chainset [stock]: FSA Alpha Drive
Chainrings [stock]: 44/32/22 tooth chainrings
Bottom Bracket [stock]: FSA Powerdrive
Cassette [stock]]: Shimano Alivio (11-32 tooth range, 8 speed)
Chain [stock]: Shimano HG40
Pedals [upgraded]: Crank Brothers Candy SL Pedals
Front Brake [upgraded]: Avid Juicy 7 Hydraulic Disc Brake
Rear Brake [upgraded]: Avid Juicy 7 Hydraulic Disc Brake
Brake Levers [upgraded]: Straitline
Handlebars [stock]: Kona XC/BC Riser
Stem [stock]: Kona XC/BC
Headset [stock]: TH
Grips [upgraded]: Lizard Skins Lock-On
Rims [stock]: Alex ACE-18
Front Hub [stock]: Formula Disc
Rear Hub [stock]: Shimano M475 disc
Tires [stock]: Maxxis Ignitor 26x2.1
Saddle [stock]: WTB Speed V Sport SE
Seatpost [stock]: Kona Thumb
Seat Binder [stock]: Kona QR


So, for those who have gone through more replacements or upgrades than myself: where would my money best be spent?

 

[Banshee Rider]

Honestly, I would hold onto the $350 you currently have based on this: It sounds like you've been putting a good ammount of riding on the bike, rad. However, in the forseeable future you're drivetrain (chain, cassette, middle chainring) will become worn to the point that it will skip under load. It's not possible to replace just one item, as they wear together. Given the quality of your current crankset, it'll probably be worth upgrading to an entire new one with new rings, rather than replace the worn ones individually. Thankfully you can pick up a nice Truvativ Stylo crankset with BB for $125, and spend whats needed on the chain and cassette. If you have money left over, upgrade the tires, which are surely approaching the same condition as your drivetrain. Use your 2010 budget to upgrade the wheels, which I agree, would be a worthwhile upgrade.

 

[BadDNA]

Honestly, I would hold onto the $350 you currently have based on this: It sounds like you've been putting a good ammount of riding on the bike, rad. However, in the forseeable future you're drivetrain (chain, cassette, middle chainring) will become worn to the point that it will skip under load. It's not possible to replace just one item, as they wear together. Given the quality of your current crankset, it'll probably be worth upgrading to an entire new one with new rings, rather than replace the worn ones individually. Thankfully you can pick up a nice Truvativ Stylo crankset with BB for $125, and spend whats needed on the chain and cassette. If you have money left over, upgrade the tires, which are surely approaching the same condition as your drivetrain. Use your 2010 budget to upgrade the wheels, which I agree, would be a worthwhile upgrade.

This man speaks the truth, I agree with him. Hang onto the money for now and use it on the drivetrain when that's shot.

 

[-BB-]

Double Ditto...

And when you do upgrade the drivetrain, you may want to think about doing the shifters as well so that you can move up to 9sp.

 

[TreeSaw]

Double Ditto...

And when you do upgrade the drivetrain, you may want to think about doing the shifters as well so that you can move up to 9sp.

Another vote for the same. 9speed drivetrain, new cranks & tires (not until they need it and wait to decide if you're moving to tubeless ). Then, upgrade the wheels (and tires if you decide to go tubeless).

 

[sanjuro]

The problem with upgrading your bike is that it is heavy and with so/so suspension.

So you can throw on a lighter crankset or seatpost, but considering the weight of the frame/fork/wheels, you won't see much of an improvement.

And if you are going to replace the frame, fork, or wheels; it is so expensive, you should buy a new bike.

I would definitely get lighter tires, since they wear relatively quickly and you will notice a big difference.

Otherwise, I would save the money for your next bike.

P.S. I would not have upgraded to a Dart. I assume you did it because of the lockout, but the most important feature of any fork is plushness. Lockouts typically do not work that well and are designed to blow-off. If you have a smooth riding style, you will not bob the fork as much.

I would have upgraded to an used Marzocchi. They are very plush and easily rebuildable. They are not the lightest, but the price is right, and I have 10 year old Marzocchis I still use.

 

[Zagreus]

Alright--

here I am, about 3 months later with a few more questions. I greatly appreciate the advice, and took it to heart; stashed that money away and rode my ass off for the past few months.

So, I am embarking on 500 miles of the Colorado Trail starting in early June-- thus, having 2 months to wrap up training (been rocking 40+ miles/day with 35+lbs gear [way more than I'll actually take with me]) and make any last minute adjustments to my bike before heading out for 21 days through Colorado (18 on trail).

Since then, I have upgraded to a Shimano XTR rear derailleur and MountainKing tires (2.4 front, 2.0 back).

Now fast-forward from my previous post and add a fair amount of money to that original $350, lets call it $900-1k. My biggest concerns remain: weight and climbing. So I am considering a new frame (I know, the Kona Blast is an absurdly heavy frame), or perhaps a new fork, and still toying with the idea of a new wheelset.

Whatever the upgrade, it should be compatible with the concept of long, hard days on single-track-- I'm concerned with durability as I give my bike a fair-beating, but no 5+ft drops or the like.

P.S. I would not have upgraded to a Dart. I assume you did it because of the lockout, but the most important feature of any fork is plushness. Lockouts typically do not work that well and are designed to blow-off. If you have a smooth riding style, you will not bob the fork as much.

I appreciate the advice, but that upgrade was out of my hands. In fact, the bike came with a Dart2 fork which blew out and required a warranty-trade-in. Instead of sending me back a Dart2, I received a Dart3 in the mail. If it had been up to me, that is not the upgrade that I would have made. Thank you for the advice, though.

As per your suggestion, I have been looking into Marzocchi forks and am loving what I read and hear. This may be the direction I take, though I would love further advice on the matter and if you still think that is the right route, considering the cross-state journey ahead.


Again, thank you all for your help. This site is a great pleasure to read through, and I only wish I had more to contribute-- perhaps I'll keep a solid journal of the Colorado Trail, or write a thread on the physiology of muscle-fiber recruitment as it applies to MTBKing.

Thoughts? Feedback?

Thanks

 

[andres611]

One of the best noticeable upgrades are the wheels. Getting a lighter yet strong wheelset will really improve your ride. You will not only loose some overall weight but you will loose rotational weight. Maybe a Crank Bros iodine? Some other people know better on the subject and can probably recommend soemthing else.