[Zonic Man]

Building a set of 317 to Am Classic Disc hubs for suzy....

14/17 revolutions/alloy nipples?

MMC Ti?

14/16/15 supercomps?

14/17 non-disc side front; 14/15 disc side front
and
14/17 disc side rear; 14/15 drive side rear?

Opinions greatly appreciated.

 

[Motionboy2]

Well DT doesn't warranty or condone a disc wheel built with the 14-17 revos. I would stick with the 14-15 g and use alloy nipples. There is too much torque on the spokes with the disc breaks otherwise. Ti isn't really a good idea cause it is kind springy. Simple tried and true 14-15, plus they are easy to build with. (they dont wind up like revos)

 

[Motionboy2]

Oh and get ROX rimstrips they will save a little weight!

 

[sub6]

Yeah. What he said. The windup on Revo's makes them a royal pain to build with. I'd do 14/15; alloy nips are fine.

 

[Zonic Man]

Originally posted by Motionboy2
Oh and get ROX rimstrips they will save a little weight!

She's going to be going with Stan's system of tubeless.

 

[oldfart]

I used revolutions last year with Tioga XC rims on Hugi 240 disc hubs. I weigh around 140#'s. I broke one spoke last year on the rear wheel and had to true it a couple times, maybe. The front stayed true and I never touched it. In the spring I found it had lost some dish. I had a 2.3 Mosquito on there and it was close to the frame. I think I was given spokes a little too long because I couldn't get it back into dish. Nipples quit turning and I wasn't about to loosen the other side. I live and ride the North shore in North Vancouver so wheels got a lot of hard riding.

I would say that at her weight revo's would be fine. Just be aware that for everyday wheels, if she rides a lot of drops, steep descents where she's hard on the brakes all they way down that they might not be as durable as using bigger spokes.

 

[rfemurfx]

if she wieghs 125lbs soaken wet the super comps with alloy nips would rock!! they would make an awsome race wheel. the key is to make sure you spoke lengths are perfect. if you go to a shop and they look in the computer and give you spoke lengths, it probably came from bike-a-log and they will be about 1mm short. (this is not a given, but in my expiriences it has been the norm) 1mm may not sound like alot but it does not allow the spoke end to be flush with end of the nipple. it is very important that happens with alloy nipples. also wheels do not come out dish. that is an imposability. they do come out of true, if the tension was wrong or it was not tensioned balanced at the end of the build. if the spokes are not balanced, eventhogh the wheel is true the spokes that have the lowest tension would start to come loose and cause the others to come loose.
if she is aggressive tie and solder the crosses and that will make the wheel much stiffer w/o a weight penalty. there is no reason she can not use those spokes. as far as winding, if you are patient that will not be an issue.
i know every other reply has been different but what has been the same is the complaints of problems. all due to poor wheel building. the problems discribed are failures from too little tension or not checking dish and spoke lenghths after the wheel was complete.

 

[Brian HCM#1]

14/15/14 is what I recommend 14/17/14 are too small.

 

[oldfart]

[also wheels do not come out dish. that is an imposability.

Bull. It was a perfectly true and centered wheel when I built it. Over time spokes will become loose if you don't tension them enough at the start. Spoke heads will deform the spoke holes in the hub flange, the spokes will straighten out a bit, the elbow will bend into place. If the spokes are not tight enough at the get go and not stressed to seat them and straighten them, they will all become a little loose through this process. If all spokes loosen the same amount, the side with greater tension will loose more tension on a percentage basis than the less tight side. That means the dish will go out. Like my wheel did. I confess I did a bad build. I was in a rush, it was getting late, I was tired and I may have gotten the wrong spoke length but was too lazy to dismantle and rebuild and actually reorder spokes as the shop special ordered the spokes for me.

 

[rfemurfx]

Dear old fart,

i am not calling you a lyer, but for a wheel to come out of dish and still be true is quite a strech. think about it, what your are saying is that every single spoke on the tighter side "broke in" the exact same amount and made the wheel come out of dish. that in percenatges alone is almost impossible. i believe the wheel came out of true but to actualy move over and stiil be straight is not an easy thing to do. i have been doing this for over 13 yrs and i have never seen this happen, or heard it happen from any of my other mechanics pro and non-pro.

 

[oldfart]

It did. Although it wasn't perfectly true, but pretty close. With disc brakes I don't pay as much attention to trueness. What the real problem was as I remember a bit better now, was that the spoke length I got was a bit long and I think I ran out out of threads on the drive side. So to get it dished I ended up loosening the non drive side just a bit. I don't remember why but it was a really weird build. Might have something to do with skinny spokes, slightly wrong length and impatients.