[mattmatt86]

I'm upgrading the wheelset on my 2010 Spec SJer 29er and I was looking to get some input. I have already have a set of Pro 2s 20mm front and QR rear, Stan's 355 29er rims but I haven't decided what spokes yet. Every wheelset I've built before this one was either a DJ, DH or similar heavy duty wheelset. I'm trying to decide between DT swiss 2.0/1.8 competition or 2.0/1.5 revolution for weight saving, I'm also open to other suggestions. I was also looking for some input on spoke tension. I'm 6' 2", 175ish in gear, I ride a lot of rocky east coast trails and I tend to ride pretty hard seeing as my background is in Freeride, DH and slalom.

Thanks guys!

 

[NuMexJoe]

I'll first admit that although I've built a few wheels for myself, I'm no expert. That said, I don't think you're gonna save appreciable weight between the comps and revs. You might get away w/ running the Revs if you used a really good wheel builder, but given how you described your trails and riding style, and the fact that you didn't indicate you're a racer boi, I think the Comps (or the Wheelsmith or Sapim equivalent) is a no-brainer. I thought I remembered reading that the Stans rims couldn't take really hgh spoke tension, which I think you'd want with the Revolutions. My $0.02,
- Joe

 

[Lumberjack]

The only 29'r rims we use with DT Rev spokes are the Mavic TN719 and the DT 470. Makes a lively wheel for the endurance riders. Because of the tension issues we run 2.0 or 2.0/1.8 on most everything else up here because of the trails. The ones we ride are more typically all-mountain style. My new Flow wheelset is DT 2.0/1.8 with alloy nipples and I flog over everything.

 

[mattmatt86]

I do race but more just for fun and they are usually enduro XC races. I think the weight savings was something like 80 grams, so it might be to my benefit to build a stiffer wheel and sacrifice a little bit of weight. I wasn't aware there was any issues with lower spoke tension on Stan's rims...Does anyone have suggestions for spoke tension or know what the recommended are for the 355 rims? (maybe I'll just e-mail Stan's to be sure)

 

[dirtygirlmagnet]

110 kg/f is the industry standard. UNLESS otherwise specified by the rim itself. 355's are to be built to 110 kg/f though.

What spoke tensiometer will you be using? Lots of them use a number scale and have a chart to figure out the kg/f equivalent. I think the park tensiometer scale, using the guage spoke you're speaking of, will be like 24.2 or close to that.

don't know if I'll be back to this thread if you need more help. but pm me if I'm not around.

 

[drjon]

arent the 355's limited to 80kgf? see stans website.

i built some cross wheels with 355's and dt 240 hubs, to 85kgf with a +/- <8 and have been enjoying them *for cross*.

that was with revos and alloy nips. its a lot lower tension than you'd guess by pinging spokes. you probably need to use a tensionometer unless you have jedi powers. i would use them on race day, for mtb, but not for proper riding/every day. i think the longevity might not be there for my 93kg bulk.

 

[dirtygirlmagnet]

http://www.notubes.com/support_wheelset.php

just found this chart on the Stan's site.

wheel tension for the 355 is "85-95". We'll have to assume this is kg/f. If you ever have a wheel that pings, you should increase your tension to the higher end of the acceptable range. Spokes make those noises when the wheel flexes from a perfectly round shape, to more of an oval shape as it's compressed. This means that the spokes on the top and bottom of a wheel (12 o'clock and 6 o'clock) decrease in tension. At the same time spokes at the sides of the wheel, 3 and 9 o'clock, are taking up the extra load.

So not only will the wheel go through more extreme stress cycles as it is ridden, the wheel will have a 'spongy' or soft feel.

 

[drjon]

when the spokes that have become twisted in truing/building 'detension' and un twist?

i guess in my last post i meant flick, or pluck not "ping"

 

[dirtygirlmagnet]

depending on how you build the wheels, spokes can "wind up" if there is too much friction between the spoke and nipple threads. A properly built wheel will be de-stressed several times throughout the build process to alleviate this. The more you build wheels the less you will need to take this step.

This is why many brand new bikes with machine built wheels will be very noisy for the first 50 feet they're ridden when new. This is just another way of de-stressing those spokes.

Wheels that are built up to a lower tension will continue to make noises throughout their life. The noises are similar to the de-stress pings, but not always as loud. The rider can sometimes create the noise by stomping on the pedals, or leaning the bike to the side and bouncing on the cranks.

Different noises for different reasons, but they both need to be fixed.

 

[Thrillkil]

I'm going to be lacing up a pair of the new Stans ZTR Crest rims to a pair of Tune hubs in a couple weeks using their new lefty hub. My last bike had DT Revolutions, but this time around I'm thinking of using Sapim CX-Rays.

 

[NuMexJoe]

If you're going with Tune and CX-Ray, cost is probably not your primary consideration, but thorusa.com has about the best prices going for Sapim spokes, and Thorsten's got a good rep w/ the Magura cult guys on emptybeer. Disclaimer: My only affiliation is that I've got his site bookmarked for my next blingy wheelbuild.
- Joe

 

[Thrillkil]

If you're going with Tune and CX-Ray, cost is probably not your primary consideration, but thorusa.com has about the best prices going for Sapim spokes, and Thorsten's got a good rep w/ the Magura cult guys on emptybeer. Disclaimer: My only affiliation is that I've got his site bookmarked for my next blingy wheelbuild.
- Joe

oh killer, thanks for the tip. Do they do EP?

 

[mattmatt86]

These wheels are driving me crazy, I built them last week and I can't get even tension and the wheel correctly dished. It's weird though, the side that doesn't have enough tension is the side that is too far off center. Seems counter intuitive...

 

[-B-]

been away for too long from here

build a rear wheel right to left http://wheelfanatyk.blogspot.com/2009/09/wheel-building-tip-no-6-build-rear.html

after you get the tension to a point that you think it is 70-80% of where you want to be you need to insure the balance of the tension, it should be with in 5% at the most ( I built to 2% I have also built over 10k wheels) the more balanced in tension a wheel is the better it will serve you