[Spunger]

So I got this P1 frame and would like to use my wheelset with it. It says it's " 6mm offset rear end for 0 dish rear wheel".

All my current wheels are normal 135mm spaced, wheel is in the center of the dropouts. Can one of my wheels be redished without completly re-lacing the entire wheel? If not should I just have a wheelset built up with the 0 dish?

 

[sanjuro]

So I got this P1 frame and would like to use my wheelset with it. It says it's " 6mm offset rear end for 0 dish rear wheel".

All my current wheels are normal 135mm spaced, wheel is in the center of the dropouts. Can one of my wheels be redished without completly re-lacing the entire wheel? If not should I just have a wheelset built up with the 0 dish?

Wheels have to be equally dished on both sides for them to work properly (i.e. rim between both locknuts). However, how it is achieved is another story.

If you look at your front wheel, the flanges are as far fron the hub center as possible (almost right next to the dropouts), so the angle of the spoke makes for the strongest wheel possible.

With rear wheels, the drive side flange is typically closer to the center than the non-drive side to accomodate the cassette. This makes for a weaker wheel than the front, because the drive side spoke angle is not as wide as the non-drive side.

While most rear wheels are made this way, there is a simple solution, which is to offset the non-drive side flange so it is equally distant from the hub middle as the drive side flange. I suspect that is how your rear wheel is made.

I would check the dish but I suspect it is properly dished. It is probably the non-drive flange which is offset.

 

[Dartman]

Wheels have to be equally dished on both sides for them to work properly (i.e. rim between both locknuts). However, how it is achieved is another story.

If you look at your front wheel, the flanges are as far fron the hub center as possible (almost right next to the dropouts), so the angle of the spoke makes for the strongest wheel possible.

With rear wheels, the drive side flange is typically closer to the center than the non-drive side to accomodate the cassette. This makes for a weaker wheel than the front, because the drive side spoke angle is not as wide as the non-drive side.

While most rear wheels are made this way, there is a simple solution, which is to offset the non-drive side flange so it is equally distant from the hub middle as the drive side flange. I suspect that is how your rear wheel is made.

I would check the dish but I suspect it is properly dished. It is probably the non-drive flange which is offset.

It sounds to me like the rear dropouts on the P1 frame were made with a 6mm offset (to the drive side) from the centerline of the bike so the rear wheel could be built with zero dish. The rim would be off center between the locknuts of the hub but would be in line with the front wheel. This would allow for the same spoke tension on both sides of the rear wheel and it would be stronger.

Spunger, you could take one of your "normal" rear wheels and move the rim over 6mm. I ran spoke calc on it and there's only 1mm difference in spoke length this way. The tension would be nearly equal on both sides with a wheel dished this way.

Mike

 

[Ridge Rider]

It sounds to me like the rear dropouts on the P1 frame were made with a 6mm offset (to the drive side) from the centerline of the bike so the rear wheel could be built with zero dish. The rim would be off center between the locknuts of the hub but would be in line with the front wheel. This would allow for the same spoke tension on both sides of the rear wheel and it would be stronger.

Spunger, you could take one of your "normal" rear wheels and move the rim over 6mm. I ran spoke calc on it and there's only 1mm difference in spoke length this way. The tension would be nearly equal on both sides with a wheel dished this way.

Mike

Specialized uses the assymetrice rear end on the Big Hit (since 2003), Demo 8 & 9, 05 & 06 Enduro and SX Trail, and some of the P series. One of the main reasons they do it is for tire clearance relative to the chain. It also does give a wheel build with near equal tensions. I have successfully taken a wheel built with standard dish and different length spokes and dished it 6mm to the non-drive side without changing spokes.

 

[Spunger]

Good to know. I have a wheelset that I'd like to get that done to. Most bike shops I'm assuming can do this with little problem correct?

 

[RhinofromWA]

Good to know. I have a wheelset that I'd like to get that done to. Most bike shops I'm assuming can do this with little problem correct?

I had a wheel redished to run on my Rotec from a buddies old KHS Dominatrax. Nothing more than loosening one side and tightening the other to move it over.

I had a bike store do it because I value my own life and know I have difficulty tensioning a wheel. Any LBS that can tell a derailleur from a head light should be able to do it.

 

[Spunger]

Good to know. Thank god it doesn't have to be relaced to do this, saves some $$$.

 

[sanjuro]

Specialized uses the assymetrice rear end on the Big Hit (since 2003), Demo 8 & 9, 05 & 06 Enduro and SX Trail, and some of the P series. One of the main reasons they do it is for tire clearance relative to the chain. It also does give a wheel build with near equal tensions. I have successfully taken a wheel built with standard dish and different length spokes and dished it 6mm to the non-drive side without changing spokes.

Thanks for the info. Great to make a non-standard wheel, Specialized!!!

 

[Udi]

Dartman is pretty much on the money.

I had to go through this process a few weeks ago, getting a new wheel built up for my bighit.

I didn't leave my frame in but mentioned the 6mm offset over the phone, so the shop guy built the wheel 6mm offset to non-driveside (compared to a normal wheel).

However when I went to pick it up, I took in my original wheel, and he had to (un)dish the new one even more to match it - he said it was actually about 12mm (to non-driveside) not 6. When I took the new one home it sat perfectly centered in my frame, so I imagine he was right??

I think your best bet is to build/redish the wheel (or get the shop to do it) with it bolted into the actual frame. You'll find out if the spokes will take it or not, you might need new ones though. I ordered (and run) the same length spokes for both sides in my wheel.

Sanjuro - it is actually pretty cool, a zero-dish wheel is stronger and you get even spoke lengths, angles, and tensions on both sides of the wheel. All with a normal 135x10mm hub.

 

[ZachTheMech]

Its not hard to make a dished wheel be not dishes per say. Specially if you know how to build wheels. the avg wheel builder can do it. You dont neccessarily have to change the spokes either. most wheel swill have for example 260 on the non drive and 262 on the drive ( for disc hubs) that would put your rim being in dish with the hub axles so its centered in the bike, if you were to use 260 and 260 on each side thats gonen make the rim centered on the hub flanges itself which is basically what Specialized does. When you throw it in a trueing stand it will look way outta dish but because of the Bighit and P bike stays its centered for the above reasons already stated.

So in your case with a 2mm diff on avg for your spokes, really all its gonna take is some retensioning by loosening the drive side maybe 2 turns or 1 and a half then tighting the nondrive by the same( that should pull the rim over enough ). then just pop it in a stand and true it. It really shouldnt be a problem for your local shop, and if they tell you you * NEED * to get new spokes, there jsut tryin to make more cash off ya for parts and labor.