Is there any way to true wheel with only a spoke wrench? I don't have any of the specialized trueing tools.
How much should it cost to true a front wheel?
How much should it cost to true a front wheel?
wheel out of true?
- Thread starter mr_dove
- Start date
K
kitchenware
Guest
I've done it with an old frame or fork, spoke wrench and a popsicle stick, but a stand is helpful. 
"How much should it cost to true a front wheel?"
I'm not sure about this, my wheels used to be so far out when I took them in, that it required 'extra' effort. I just do it myself now, still w/out a stand.
jim
"How much should it cost to true a front wheel?"
I'm not sure about this, my wheels used to be so far out when I took them in, that it required 'extra' effort. I just do it myself now, still w/out a stand.
jim
To get the wheel just right - dished right, true and round, a truing stand and etc. are necessary. If the wheel just needs a little tweaking, then leaving it on the bike and using either the v brake pads, or a spoke taped to the V-brake bosses will work as a makeshift truing stand. Still, it takes some experience to tension the spokes correctly, so for a long term fix, I'd say get the wheel to your LBS and / or get the tools and training to do it just right. That said, I rebuilt a couple wheels using the makeshift method, and they turned out OK.
Most shops charge $10-15 if it's standard stuff (no new spokes/nips/rims needed).
You can do it just by rotating the wheel in the frame, but KW is right, it really is a lot easier with a stand. Of course, that's very expensive.
I've done it by taping a spoke or something to the frame or fork, and spinning the wheel to see where it's out of whack. Same thing as a truing stand does, but not as easy.
I've trued many wheels, and only once was it with a truing stand. What I do is I put zip ties on the seatstays and have the extra part of the tie right up to the rim. But yes, using a truing stand is way easier and precise.
i've managed to build about 8 wheels using the frame and a few spokes as guides. yes, its harder to get a perfect wheel within 0.5mm in every direction, but you just have to take some time about it, give it a try yourself, if you screw up, it won't cost much if any more, and if you get it right, thats extra beer money
try http://www.sheldonbrown.com/wheels/ for a large heap of wheelbilding info, thats all i needed to get started.
try http://www.sheldonbrown.com/wheels/ for a large heap of wheelbilding info, thats all i needed to get started.
The minoura/performance budget stands are WELL worth the $40-50 they normally go for. They'll pay for themselves within a wheel or two, really. Frustration using ghetto methods is (for me) not worth the aggravation and time. Right tool for the right job...
They work well and are portable. The feelers screw in and out, which makes them far superior to the inexpensive Park stand in my humble opinion. The plastic dropouts suck, but that's a minor concern. Just don't torque your QR down really hard on it; I simply screw it down till it's tight.
I think Nashbar, performance, and Cambria usually carry them. Check it out! Once you have one, you'll wonder how you did without it. And when you're eventually riding your own hand-built wheels, you'll see how well that $50 investment did you.
-MD
They work well and are portable. The feelers screw in and out, which makes them far superior to the inexpensive Park stand in my humble opinion. The plastic dropouts suck, but that's a minor concern. Just don't torque your QR down really hard on it; I simply screw it down till it's tight.
I think Nashbar, performance, and Cambria usually carry them. Check it out! Once you have one, you'll wonder how you did without it. And when you're eventually riding your own hand-built wheels, you'll see how well that $50 investment did you.
-MD