I find it odd that there are no stats listed anywhere for the bike that I could find. Also, the dual top tube thing is odd to me as well. But those whitewalls look sick! (And remind me of a beach cruiser.)
I raced a Profile for cruiser class back in the 80's and actual dug it out when I started riding DJ trails and park back in the late 90's (jeeez, I'm an old fart) and can spot a Profile frame a mile away. I actually have a 20" complete that I bought from someone local and my daughter uses it.
WCH - some more info on that mid-tube:
BMX Plus February 1983 said:
Over a year and a half was spent in experimenting with different styles designed around one constantly remaining feature: the original Champion's dual front triangle. From a visual standpoint it appears as if the middle-gusset tube is connected to the down-tube and seat mast. Don't be misled. The gusset tube actually extends though and is welded to the head tube. To accomplish this, all the tubes are jigged up in a fixture. A welder then tacks the gusset tube to the seat mast. The down tube is carefully slipped rearward along the gusset tube to expose the head-tube/gusset-tube butt joint. After that joint is welded, the down tube is moved back into its position and welded. From that point the frame is 100% welded in the jig.
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The objective of the dual triangulation is to spread out the concentration of stress loads in the most efficient fashion. To do this, the gusset tube has to be connected directly to the head tube and triangled with the top tube where it ends at the seat mast. Any other arrangement would not fully be effective. Champion's dual triangle gives it perhaps the best strength to weight ratio going."
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The frame designer (Mike Konle) on the Double Triangulation:
"It's been my experience, in aircraft and in crane booms, the way you get strength is through heavier wall thickness. You can make a frame lighter and equally as strong if it's triangulated correctly. It's the same as a boom on a big crane. They are triangulated all the way out to the tips with small diameter tubing, yet they're as strong as if they were a solid stock six-foot square. But a solid square of solid stock would bend like a garden hose under its own weight if you lifted it from one end. At the same time, your triangulated box section would barley sag under its own weight.
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When you land from a jump, imagine as the front wheel hits the ground it wants to spread the wheelbase apart. That 5/8" tube welded in there gives us a straight-pull reinforcement of the head tube area.
i also raced a profile way back then, but i had a 20 instead of the cruiser. easily one of my favorites back then. so anytime i see a mid-tube, that's the first place my mind goes, regardless if the configuration is the same. at that time i wasn't aware of any of the other bikes that used them.
interesting about them continuing to the head tube, that part i was completely unaware of...
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