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XC Bike Needs New Brakes. Suggestions?

RockyDriver

Chimp
Mar 10, 2010
3
0
Hi,

New to these forums and new to XC biking. I recently picked up a 01 Rocky Mountain Element Race. Pretty stoked it being my first FS bike. Anyways, the bike is in EXCELLENT condition the only thing that needs to be replaced is the rear hydraulic break (lever, caliper, lines ect.) which I am going to replace the whole system. It currently has some unknown Magura hydraulic breaks, but the rear lever is shot I literally have to pump the lever to get any kind of response from the rear break.

From reviewing breaks on MTBR I've came down to two that seem good for my setup. Either Avid Code 5's, or Avid Elixir 5's. Any personal experiences, and pro's and or con's? OR any other suggestions on brakes? I am looking on paying no more the $250 for the whole setup: levers, lines, calipers, rotors-180mm(R)160mm(F).

TIA
 

pencil_sr

Chimp
Feb 2, 2010
16
0
Utah
Are you set on going with hydraulic brakes? because on an XC bike mechanicals should have plenty of stopping power, and will be a lot cheaper. You can pick up a set of Avid bb7's (front and back) online for around 140 plus shipping for everything. I like the bb7's because they are so easy to adjust because they are mechanical.


This is a whole setup priced out at pricepoint.com



30137 Avid BB7 Mech Disc Brake Grey Fnt/Rer 2009 160mm $44.98
2 at $ 89.96

18044 Avid FR-5 Brake Levers 2009 Silver -- $11.98 each
2 at $23.96

21036 Alligator PTFE Galvanized Cables - Set of 5 $9.98

21046 Alligator AIS Housing 25-ft Roll Brake -- $9.98

Subtotal : $133.88
 

rockarollah

Chimp
Feb 11, 2010
64
1
Waterloo, ON
Could it just be a brake bleed you need?

Last weekend, I picked up Avid BB7's w/o levers or rotors for $30 from a freeride/DJ kid. They're for a friend's bike; she has generic disks which really, really suck. I'll keep you posted on the install, let you how easy it is and how the brakes end up working. I've heard good things about BB7's for sure.

Two of my bikes now have come stock with Avid Juicy 5's, and I like'em. No complaints at all; they're plenty strong with good modulation.
 

RockyDriver

Chimp
Mar 10, 2010
3
0
I think I am pretty set on the hydraulic I like the sure stopping power and quick response. I am pretty newb and need as much breaking response as I possibly can lol.

Its possible that the brakes just need a bleed. Everything on the bike is ORIGINAL except the rear derailer and the shifters. There's a couple kinks in the lines that I noticed. However, like I said the rear lever is shot and I am unsure if its fixable. Lever has a lot of play. Not sure if I take the lever apart if it can even be rebuildable. The caliper pads are in okay condition and the calipers itself are okay. Realizing its an 2001 I can't beleive its even in this condition. I honestly think a 60 year old women had this bike. I bought the bike at a pawn shop found it on craigslist and immediately jumped on it. Cost $550 out the door. Think I got a steal. Bike has no chain slap, no dinks minor scratches and one side part of the "Rocky Mountain" and "Element Race" decal is missing. Did some minor maintenance (cleaned/lubed chain and cassette) Took it out on some downhills nothing major and it performed flawlessly. Except the rear brakes which I scared myself many times.
 

pencil_sr

Chimp
Feb 2, 2010
16
0
Utah
if you are worried about stopping power, for another 6 bucks a piece you can get bb7's with 203 rotors. Thats what I run on my downhill/freeride bike and I have never had any problems with stopping power, and I weigh about 215 plus gear. I just really like the adjustability you get with mechanicals, no bleeding to worry about, and you can maintain/ adjust them on the the trail.
 
Last edited:

oldfart

Turbo Monkey
Jul 5, 2001
1,206
24
North Van
Screw mechanical man, hydraulic brakes are the best way to go. BB7's are the best mechanical brake going, but hydraulic brakes are better. Code for an xc bike is overkill. Codes are DH freeeride strong. Of the two you mentioned the Elixir's are the way to go I think. Maybe choose a 185 front rotor if you're heavy or ride long steeps.

But it may be that the brakes you have now need a simple bleed or maybe some other simple maintenance.