[captainspauldin]

So I pretty much have my heart set on a Stumpjumper Evo(and my LBS can get me a good deal on it), my question is do I wait for the 2012s or do I snatch up a 2011 now? Main difference between the '11 and '12 seemes to be 145mm vs 150mm of travel. Can't work out if the 2011 has the 12x142 or just standard 10/12 x135? '12 has the new kashima coated rp23 with autosag and adaptive logic(I've heard this sucks), '11 is boost valve rp23-s with no auto sag. '12 has a updated seatpost(both are still 3-position 125mm of travel). decisions, decisions, anybody know what rear spacing is on the '11? I have a 10x135 rear wheel, and probably need to get a new hub anyways, but if I can run that wheel on a '11 it might sway my decision..
'12

'11

 

[golgiaparatus]

Get one with a brain or get something else IMO. The brain is what makes specialized's suspension unique... without it there are many better/cheaper frames.

 

[captainspauldin]

Although I do agree to a point, not many bikes offer the geometry I want at that price that come with a dropper post. I have a ironhorse mk3 with offset bushes to get it more aggressive. Love the bike, but im afraid of the rear snapping like so many others

 

[Mulestar]

2011 is a standard 135 rear. Not sure what autosag is but mine just has a 25% indicator on the frame. Pretty easy to set up and the 3 position lsc adjust works well for what it is.

Lemme know if you have other questions, I've been on the 2011 evo since May.

 

[captainspauldin]

2011 is a standard 135 rear. Not sure what autosag is but mine just has a 25% indicator on the frame. Pretty easy to set up and the 3 position lsc adjust works well for what it is.

Lemme know if you have other questions, I've been on the 2011 evo since May.

Awesome thanks for the info, so normal as in QR/10m x 135 rear? How's the seatpost been holding up? it's the same as joplin right? How's the bike been so far(maybe in comparison to your old bike or w/e)?

 

[IH8Rice]

'12 has the new kashima coated rp23 with autosag and adaptive logic(I've heard this sucks), '11 is boost valve rp23-s with no auto sag.

i absolutely love my RP23 with adaptive logic.
and what the heck is auto sag??


edit: leave it to Specialized...
http://sparkbrs.com/archives/3307

 

[4130biker]

Normal q/r 135 set up on my 2011. It's been a great bike. Sag gradients are easy to use, so I don't see autosag as a benefit (to me at least). 142 rear end might be nice as that's the main weakness of the frame, a flexy rear end. How much it affects the quality of the ride, I don't know without trying a 142 version...
As far as the seatpost goes, my 2011 125mm version has been working great. It is MUCH better than the joplin I had- negligible side-to-side play at the seat, lots more travel, and doesn't quit working when it gets wet/dirty at the seal.

The bike is easy to ride above what it can handle since it's so comfortable going fast. Climbing seems fine to me- the suspension moves, but it still feels very snappy, especially on flatter (what I used to think of as boring) sections of trail. I have always been on heavier freeride bikes and just came from an enduro, for what it's worth.

The main thing that I think you lose with a bike like this over an "all mountain" bike is some stiffness, and a little bit of confidence in the jumping department. It jumps fine, but I really try to avoid casing the s*** out of things. I try to avoid casing at all times, but I'm a bit more careful with this bike as I don't want to mess it up.
In the end, I think the improved climbing makes it a better do it all bike for me than say an enduro.

 

[JohnnyH]

Adaptive logic might be nice, and I have heard that Kashima coating is great for rear shocks and adds a bit more small bump compliance. I don't really see the point of auto-sag for a bike you would own. I think it could be great for demo bikes, but it seems kind of gimmicky in the long run.

I think if you are a heavier rider, then going for 142 x 12 might be a plus. I have had little issue running a bolt-on 135 x 10, but I am only about 150 lbs...

If you plan to ride the bike for a couple of years and sell the frame, then the 2012 would have better re-sale value. In the end though it sounds like you are spoiled for choice and couldn't really go wrong either way.

 

[captainspauldin]

Thanks for the comments.

Agreed, autosag is nice to have if you have trouble getting your rear sag right, but I've never had any issues getting sag right on my mkIII. Good to know there are indicators on the 2011 to show correct sag and whatnot. I've heard mixed reviews on the adaptive logic(I remember reading somewhere it doesn't play nice with the new commencal metas, no mid-stroke support or something like that). Kashima is nice, but the updated rp23 isn't going to be the only reason I get a '12 if I decide to.

Yeah, I'm 6' 4" 230, so maybe that 12 x142mm rear end might make a difference. I gotta take a closer look at the geometry chart a bit more and compare it to the mk3. I also might just throw the throw the money have set aside for the new frame in the bank and ride the crap outta my mk3 until breaks and go from there.

 

[captainspauldin]

Sidenote, I believe the price difference between a 2011 vs 2012 frameset is like $50, for anyone that's curious.. Kinda odd if you ask me, but they have a ton of 2011s in stock so that's probably why.

 

[IH8Rice]

Sidenote, I believe the price difference between a 2011 vs 2012 frameset is like $50, for anyone that's curious.. Kinda odd if you ask me, but they have a ton of 2011s in stock so that's probably why.

that is odd. doesnt seem like your LBS wants to move those 2011's

 

[captainspauldin]

I think it's the Big S, as their price is based on what they get the frame from Specialized..

 

[4130biker]

If you can hold out a bit longer, I wouldn't be suprised if those '11s go on closeout soon. Unless your LBS already has it on the showroom floor, they payed the old price so it is unlikely to get cheaper.

This is from when i worked at shops with specialized, there may be someone here who can give you a clearer picture of what's going on.

OH YEAH, scenario #2 is that they are able to produce the 2012 for less $$ and that's the lowest the '11's will ever go, even though the new one is a bit better.

 

[captainspauldin]

Sorry, I wasn't fully clear. LBS doesn't have any EVOs in stock, they're just basing the pricing on what they can get it for from Specialized. MSRP is $2400 on the '11s and $2000 on the '12s.. leads me to believe scenario #2 is more likely.

 

[IH8Rice]

Sorry, I wasn't fully clear. LBS doesn't have any EVOs in stock, they're just basing the pricing on what they can get it for from Specialized. MSRP is $2400 on the '11s and $2000 on the '12s.. leads me to believe scenario #2 is more likely.

Wow prices went down on their bikes? They are probably the only mfg to lower their prices on 2012 models

 

[4130biker]

Wow prices went down on their bikes? They are probably the only mfg to lower their prices on 2012 models

It might be this particular bike. Since it's replacing the pitch, I'm guessing they did a much larger volume than last year- also I bet most of the tooling needed for the bike was paid for last year on the first model year run, so now they can drop the price a bit.

I would also be suprised if everything is cheaper in their line this year.

 

[4130biker]

Captainspauldin- what'd you decide!?

 

[captainspauldin]

Captainspauldin- what'd you decide!?

Broke down and ordered the '12 last week, should have it this week or next week. Pretty pumped, gotta sort out a rear wheel and what bottom bracket/adapter I need then I should be set.

 

[IH8Rice]

also I bet most of the tooling needed for the bike was paid for last year on the first model year run, so now they can drop the price a bit.

I would also be suprised if everything is cheaper in their line this year.

other mfgs who carry over a model have increased their prices for 2012....at least for the 10 or so brands ive looked into and the 6-7 we carry

 

[4130biker]

other mfgs who carry over a model have increased their prices for 2012....at least for the 10 or so brands ive looked into and the 6-7 we carry

Maybe it's to stay competetive in the "price-point" AM type bike category that the pitch was?

 

[4130biker]

Broke down and ordered the '12 last week, should have it this week or next week. Pretty pumped, gotta sort out a rear wheel and what bottom bracket/adapter I need then I should be set.

Awesome! I bet you'll like it

 

[captainspauldin]

Awesome! I bet you'll like it

Sure hope so..

Random questions, see if anybody w/'12 stumpy/epic knows:
-Does the frameset come with adapters to run a 12x135 rear wheel(I heard it does, but can't confirm)? I'm gonna try and get a cheap 12x135 wheel and wait for one of those fancy 9T hubs to come out and then re-lace my current trail bike rear wheel to one of those new hubs..
-I have stylo OCT cranks and a bb-mounted chainguide (MRP Lopes guide), should I use the press-in BB adapter and just run it like normal? Or should I get a press-in BB and a iscg-mounted guide? Are the press-in BB worth the $$$? Not that concerned w/weight, and I kinda don't like having zero protection w/the lopes guide, so don't really mind ponying up for a guide w/a bashguard..
-Running a 140mm fork(my beloved pike), any reason I should be concerned about not running a 150mm fork?

 

[4130biker]

I would just put an ISCG '05 guide on and not worry about it. It may be funky running the lopes sandwiched between the bottom bracket and a press-in adapter.

I would check the pike A-C height. I had to reduce my revelation to 140 to keep the geometry stock. I wouldn't be suprised if the pike is similiar and will be perfect for the bike.

I can't help you with the wheel, but I'd try running adapters until the fancy 9t stuff comes out!

 

[Da Peach]

Funny, I've got on '06 MKIII with a Pike 454 U-turn currently. I too am considering the Stumpy EVO.

I'll be paying close attention to this thread.... When is your's scheduled to arrive? Post pics!

 

[captainspauldin]

I gotta call my LBS today to see what's up. Got some odds and ends arriving today, and found a good deal on a wheelset that will work. So it's coming together, hoping to have it all together before next weekend. But yeah, I'm def interested to see how it rides vs my mkIII.

 

[kidwithbike]

NICE! This sounds freaking awesome. you are kinda my hero Shaun. I call dibs on a test ride!

 

[captainspauldin]

Showed up! Now just waiting on the axle for my wheels and I'll be able to put it all together.

 

[captainspauldin]

Finally got the hub adapters I was waiting on should have built pics soon, can't wait to ride!

 

[oliv06]

Showed up! Now just waiting on the axle for my wheels and I'll be able to put it all together.

Hi,

I would like to know which size did you select, and how tall are your?

regards,

 

[captainspauldin]

Hi,

I would like to know which size did you select, and how tall are your?

regards,

Sure, XL and I'm 6' 4"

 

[captainspauldin]

Finally got the hub adapters in for my pro2 last week and got it all together. Rode saturday and sunday at my normal trails, some of my initial impressions:
-Top tube feels super long and rear-end feels super short compared to my mk3, been adjusting my riding position accordingly
-This bike is FAST, carries speed much better than the mk3, turns I'm used to breaking traction on the mk3, hold on the stumpy, the extra 1" of travel def. is noticeable
-Pedaling isn't significantly different than my mk3, I thought it would actually be noticeably worse, so I was pleasantly surprised when it wasn't. Might have something to do with the longer top tube as well, I feel like I can put power down better.
-Rubbed the rear chain stays w/my heals a couples times, but not super-noticeable like some people have pointed out about the 142 rear end.
-Rear axle came loose twice over the weekend, both times near the end of my ride, actually almost came completely out on saturday. Dunno why this is happening, maybe I have too much grease on the threads or something.

Weighed the bike yesterday came in at 30 lbs 3 ounces, not bad when I compare it to my mk3 that came in 30lbs 13 ounces without the dropper post/water bottle cage and mostly identical build(lighter chain guide on the mk3, but heavier cranks). So overall I'm very happy.
On the trails:

 

[4130biker]

Looks awesome!

 

[gonefirefightin]

I bet you wouldnt notice the difference in a blind taste test.....get one and ride, you wont be dissapointed

 

[Da Peach]

pretty sweet. stuck with the Pike, eh? I should really weigh my MKIII one of these days... Or, perhaps I shouldn't...heh.

 

[captainspauldin]

pretty sweet. stuck with the Pike, eh? I should really weigh my MKIII one of these days... Or, perhaps I shouldn't...heh.

Yeah, for now at least. Mk3 isn't really that heavy, to be fair I read somewhere that the Stumpy is the lightest frame in it's class.

I kinda wonder how the mk3 would feel with a kashima rp23, I feel like that might have a lot to do with how the stumpy pedals and the general(awesome) feel. Also so other mk3 vs stumpy thing I noticed. Hopping over logs I seemed to bash my chainring/bashguard more on the mk3, but never seemed to have any pedal strikes. Opposite is true with the stumpy, never seem to hit the chainring, but I've noticed a couple small pedal strikes when pedaling. Probably just a dw-link vs. FSR difference or something, but worth noting.

 

[denjen]

Thanks for the write up. I am hoping to order that same frame early next year. What set up did you end up going with for the BB? I just got an SLX crank set and would rather just use the adapter vs a new BB.

 

[captainspauldin]

Thanks for the write up. I am hoping to order that same frame early next year. What set up did you end up going with for the BB? I just got an SLX crank set and would rather just use the adapter vs a new BB.

Just got the adapter for Stylo OCT cranks. Kinda wish I just got a pressfit BB, seemes way simplier and not sure how much life is left in my BB. But if yours is new, just go for the adapter.

Oh and since we're on the subject of BB/Cranks, I installed an older e13 LG-1 chainguide I had laying around. I tried to fit the bashguard portion of the guide, but there isn't enough clearance because of the downtube. Dunno if it's just b/c of my setup, but it was nowhere near clearing.. I plan on getting either a LG-1+ or 32T SRS+ once I get the $$$

 

[denjen]

Please give us a long term review once you get some time on it. I will have to live vicariously through you until I can order mine. Unfortunately my wife insists we get toys for my son for Christmas before I can get my toys.

 

[captainspauldin]

Got another 4 days on the Evo. I'm seriously considering trying out a 50mm stem, I've been swapping between a 70mm 0 rise thomson and 70mm 12* rise syncros stem and I've been liking the syncros stem better. Makes me think I'll like a 50mm even more. I'm nowhere near hitting my knees on the shifters(problem I used to have on just about all my old bikes), so I feel like I'd do fine with a 50mm stem. I'm thinking about getting another geax dhea and throwing it the back, the saguaro was fun on the mk3, but a bit scary sometimes on the evo.

 

[daday]

hey,

I'm trying to swap out the bearings in a stumpy evo from 2012 - and i have no idea how to get out the ones in the main frame (3 bearings total - and they are all totally broken - compared to the ones in the link)... any idea if i can pry them out both sides or something??!?