lets say your 6'4'' and you were looking for a hardtail frame that is under $700 that could hold up to dj'ing and street. what would you get?
6.4
- Thread starter willyboy8576
- Start date
Giant STP One, long...
The longer version of the Evil DOC. They're purty long, purty burly and just plain purty. I've ridden the shorter version and it's pretty neat-o. I would think the longer top tube would fit you well.
www.evilbikes.com
$450!!!!!!!!
www.evilbikes.com
$450!!!!!!!!
I'm 6'1" and my long azonic steelhead isn't bad.
For $650 you can get a custom though.
Call Paul at Peyto Cycles.
For $650 you can get a custom though.
Call Paul at Peyto Cycles.
banshee morphine size 16". that is what i ride and i'm 6'5" and i DJ, urban, fr, dh, what ever on the thing and it has not missed a beat!
Not to derail the subject, but steel bikes beiong stronger than aluminum bikes/ steel bikes being more fatigue resistant than aluminim bikes is a myth in the bike world that has to die. Any mechanical engineer who is qualified to discuss materials will tell you that.Gary said:
Basically, all bikes have a fatigue life, and furthermore, there are aluminum frames out there that consistently test LONGER fatigue lives than some steel frames of the same weight class.
To willyboy, there are a lot of long front end dirt jumpers out there. Take as many as you can for a ride and try to make a choice. Play with par/ stem choices and you will probably be able to get whatever you choose dialed for you.
Dave
The Kona HT frames chute, stuff etc. can be found cheap and in large sizes. I am 6.2 and I have ridden all dj, street, dh and trail without a problem on a 15" frame.
True Dat,CBJ said:
I don't get toe-overlap on a 13" Kona! I am 5'10" with an 11 shoe.
Wheel World is blowing out Kona hardtail frames super cheap! I think they even have the Cro-Mo "Scab"...
Hi Dave,dw said:
This is an interesting topic. There are two sides to the problem: the design side and the material selection side. Here are a few thoughts on the steel vs. alu question.
From the material selection side there are a few important issues to consider. The big one that you mention is fatigue. the chrome molybdenem alloys that we use to 'steel' build frames have no fatigue limit. The aluminum alloys used to build frames do. Nothing anyone can do about that. It is the nature of non-ferrous alloys.
From the design side there are a couple of problems as well. A lot of failures that are blamed on fatigue failure are probably more general design or manufacturing flaws: Gussets too short, poorly shaped or simply in the wrong places. Welds with bad penetration or sh!tty post weld HT. These troubles will effect steel and alu of course.
The biggest design issue i have with alu is the second moment of area necessary to get a decently stiff tube necessities large diameter tubing. Dent resistance is equivalent to the reciprocal of diameter. Since steel tubes have smaller diameters all other things being equal (they're not, i know) steel tubes will be less likely to dent. And yes, I do think dent resistance is an important structural concern.
Long lasting and durable bikes can be built from both Al and Steel. The importnat question is: Is the frame a quality built product with good quality control? This is a far more important question than which material was used!
.03
large 243! Im nearly 6ft on a very comfy medium. Man, so many choices....
a large lifetime or Sinister DNA (Ebbet is 6'5")
Transition Trail or Park is huge. At 6'5 I have no issues with the long being to short.