[DHOatmeal]

Hi,

I was wondering if anyone could help me with my Fork settings..

First OFF When people refering to clicks does it START from the Knob turned all the way counter clockwise
(-) then (# of clicks - clockwise +)?

Also what would ur suggestion be for a good start. I am still confused about the settings.

There is a preload on both fork leg/red ring (not sure where to start)- not sure where to start

There is then the..

Right Upper CAP - Rebound Brake Knob
Left Upper CAP - Compression Brake Knob on end of travel
Right Wheel Axel Clamp foot - Compression Brake knob

I weight 160 lbs and would like to know a good base. I am so confused on teh settings..

thx

 

[numerik]

Turn the red preload knobs all the way out (left or -), lo speed compresion on the bottom leg also all the way out (-), or just a few clicks in (5), hi seed comp on the top of the fork a few turns in (+), like five to ten turns. Set rebound to your preferencies...

 

[DHOatmeal]

I LOVE u..

haha just joking but thank you.

Do you have any experience ROCO RC World Cup? thx

 

[DHOatmeal]

Ohh on High Speed COMP when u state 5 - 10 turns is this (CLICKS) or full rolation one turn = one rotation?

thx

 

[numerik]

Full rotations...It's my 2nd season on Roco...comp just a few (3-4) rotations in (+), air pressure about 180-190 psi. My weight is 80 kg, spring 450.

 

[DHOatmeal]

I am about 70 Kg.

Ok full rotations = one complete turn!!


Roco WC - 3-4 Turns for compression.

Q1) What about Rebound?

Q2) If you could give me a tip on how reboung more or less would afect riding. The settings can get confusing.

thx..

 

[numerik]

Rebound is a big theme...use "search"...you got loads of stuff about rebound settings

 

[fred.r]

Q2) If you could give me a tip on how reboung more or less would afect riding. The settings can get confusing.

thx..

Rebound, too much and your fork will feel harsh and choppy and fight you in turns. Too little and your fork will start packing up in travel durring repeated hits.

 

[DHOatmeal]

total there are about 10 full rotation or 27+ clicks.

Some state 5-10 turns (rotation) which would be half to all of Compression.

ill try both 5-10 clicks or 5 or 6 full rotation.

Any info on the roco world cup?

i have used the search function and would love second opinions ..

thx

 

[1000-Oaks]

I weigh exactly the same as you and have riden my WC about six times.

I have the preload knobs backed all the way out (counter-clockwise, no preload).

As a starting point I have both compression knobs all the way out (counterclockwise), and will increase the compression only when I notice bottoming or excessive brake dive. The lower compression knob affects compression damping through the full range of travel, however the top knob only affects damping in the last half of travel (bottoming control). Adjust the bottom knob to control brake dive and slow overall compression, however some brake dive is a good thing in corners and I like a "soft" fork to absorb chatter. If I start to notice bottoming I'll turn the top knob clockwise a little at a time until it only bottoms now and then (at our weight it probably won't happen much, unless you ride big). I'd rather be on the soft side and use the travel I paid for than be so stiff the fork never bottoms out.

The rebound is trickier to set, being just one click out of the sweet spot makes a noticable difference. Start with the fork rebounding fast (all the way counterclockwise) and turn clockwise to increase rebound damping until it no longer feels bouncy. If you go to far, it'll start feeling very harsh over rough, bumpy terrain. It's a fine line, mine is currently set at 11 clicks clockwise from fully "open". I like 10 clicks for choppy rocky washboard stuff, 11 for loose dirt (just found that out at Mammoth today) and might go even more on smooth dirt trails. But it depends a lot on your riding style, speed (slower riders are probably more comfortable with slower rebound) and terrain. Fork cartridge manufacturing differences could also be a factor, so don't be surprised if you need a slightly different number of clicks.

 

[bullcrew]

I weight exactly the same as you and have riden my WC about six times.

As a starting point I have both compression knobs all the way out (counterclockwise), and will increase the compression only when I notice bottoming or excessive brake dive. The lower compression knob affects compression damping through the full range of travel, however the top knob only affects damping in the last half of travel (bottoming control). Adjust the bottom knob to control brake dive and slow overall compression, however some brake dive is a good thing in corners and I like a "soft" fork to absorb chatter. If I start to notice bottoming I'll turn the top knob clockwise a little at a time until it only bottoms now and then (at our weight it probably won't happen much).

The rebound is trickier to set, being just one click out of the sweet spot makes a noticable difference. Start with the fork rebounding fast (all the way counterclockwise) and turn clockwise to increase rebound damping until it no longer feels bouncy. If you go to far, it'll start feeling very harsh over rough, bumpy terrain. It's a fine line, mine is currently set at 11 clicks clockwise from fully "open". I like 10 clicks for choppy rocky stuff, 11 for smoother/loose dirt.

Did not, no you didnt and yeah thats a load of BS!

Whats up D, sorry I didnt call back I have been slammed and busy with everything. I will call you tomorrow.
Ive been working, Over clockn the comp and rubbing the pregnant ladys feet.

Settings make all the differnece on the fork especially here in the soutwest. Up north it was prime riding tims set it for hucking and be done, no chatter and nill braking bumps.
Washed out 2 weeks ago and again this weekend so I got some info dialed it and its trackig alot better. Actually really close to your set up.

Sorry there quaker oats dude! I havent had a chance to respond to your PM it looks like the same answer or similair to what i would have given anywase. Rock it like its a groupie!!

 

[1000-Oaks]

Settings make all the differnece on the fork especially here in the soutwest. Up north it was prime riding tims set it for hucking and be done, no chatter and nill braking bumps.
Washed out 2 weeks ago and again this weekend so I got some info dialed it and its trackig alot better. Actually really close to your set up.

And you weigh 70+ lbs more than I do! Lol, I'm sure you need a lot more compression damping. Rebound settings shouldn't change with rider weight though (only spring rate changes), theoretically.

 

[1000-Oaks]

Rebound, too much and your fork will feel harsh and choppy and fight you in turns. Too little and your fork will start packing up in travel durring repeated hits.

I know what you're saying Fred and you're absolutely correct, but the above could give someone the wrong idea, depending on whether they interpret "rebound" as "rebound speed" or "rebound damping". Just trying to clarify for Oats, who sounds confused. Too much rebound 'damping' and the fork will pack up into its travel during repeated hits (can't fully extend before the next hit), and will feel harsh or as if it's not even working. Too little rebound damping and the fork will feel skittish on washboard and bouncy on landings.

 

[bullcrew]

And you weigh 70+ lbs more than I do! Lol, I'm sure you need a lot more compression damping. Rebound settings shouldn't change with rider weight though (only spring rate changes), theoretically.

He!! I just said that to say something because I fely bad for not responding to his PM.
I have no Idea what mine are at I just strart clicking and somehow it worked out.

I know I wouldnt Huck with them where they are now but they are good for a 5' and the stuff around here. Loose and sketchy!

Kinda like my old truck beat it till it breaks then go bigger. I finally did the 3 link and the bypass shocks on the rear with a 9" housing (strange nodular built to the gills).
Needless to say I eliminated the broken situation as wellas aced all that was Toyota under it.