Any frame can break... Ironhorse, Knolly, intense... whatever.Yea, because no one has ever broken a Banshee.....
Lots of wrong info hereI second the Spitfire recommendation!!
4in travel in back with near DW-like (though not quite all the way) pedaling characteristics, full length seat-tube, tapered HS, geometry optimized for a 160mm fork (66 degrees with a zero-stack lower), and a LOW bottom bracket (about 12.75 I believe with a fox 36 in front). And DANG this bike RIPS. Climbs great, very little tendency to "wander" in front on steep tech climbs and switchbacks, just enough rear susp to help in real nasty stuff, long wheelbase for stability at speed... I could go on and on (but I have to get to a mtg in a few min).
LOVE mine...
I have heard of a lot more issues with other companies than knolly. I have seen a local guy hit huge gaps and drops on the old endorphin with no issues. the newer ones will be stronger and more capable for sure.Take this for what it is... some anecdotal feedback, but a lot of the guys around here that had the Knolly bikes have also BROKEN their knolly bikes. Never an issue before on their intenses, "spots" etc. just the knollys.
Again though, this is just a few guys that I know and may not be indicative of ALL knolly bikes (these were all the chilcotin model btw).
Thats exactly the point. Saying don't buy a certain brand like you did above because you know a few people who broke them (again, prototypes) isn't exactly fair. There seem to actually be more issues with banshees right now (frame's cracking, bushing slop, axle wear, etc) than knolly so saying my suggestion wasn't good is kind of humorous to me after hearing what bike you suggested.Any frame can break... Ironhorse, Knolly, intense... whatever.
Not sure about that. My Spitfire measures bang on 13.1" BB height with a zero stack headset, Fox Van RC 160mm, DHF in front and High Roller in back (low setting).BB height is adjustable with the frame's HA. with a 150mm fork it has a 13.1 to 13.6ish depending on tires on both of those. With a 160mm fork it would be a bit higher.
Yep Dave, that was me. I've owned a ton of bikes in the 6" range and the Dixon is the best all-around in my opinion. It's reasonably light, reasonably burly, and the suspension works amazingly well. It accelerates great, is plenty supple over small stuff, ramps up nicely on big hits, and is composed no matter how rough the trail. Other pluses include large pivot bearings that are all the same size, no pivot hardware threads into the frame, 12mm rear axle, great cable routing, best tapered head tube option (ZS44/ZS56), and has decent tire clearance. I wouldn't mind if the TT/WB was a little longer or if the BB was just a fraction lower, but overall the geometry is dialed. And a couple of nice tweaks are coming on the 2012 models. I just wanted to express my stokage on the Dixon even if isn't on the short list of the OP because it is a rad bike that hasn't had a ton of exposure. Here's a more recent pic setup 1x10.Also someone put a picture up of the Devinci Dixon, which is one of my go-to trail bikes right now. It is lower and slacker than the HD in the low slack setting, and with it's adjustable geometry it can be similar to HD as well. It has 145mm of travel, so less than the HD and really pairs up well with a 32 class 150mm fork.
That should work fine. Basically the same thing at the seat tube mounted XCX on my bike. E13 has a Dtype XCX available as well.The mrp 1x guide has a front derailleur direct mount option....I wonder if this will work with the carbine for a clean 1x10 setup.
And it's a winner! Brian Buell took 2nd on his in the inaugural Winterpark All Mountain Enduro, leading until the final stage when Ross Schnell motored on the longest and least technical route of the weekend.I second the Spitfire recommendation!!
So does that mean it does not have efficient pedaling?And it's a winner! Brian Buell took 2nd on his in the inaugural Winterpark All Mountain Enduro, leading until the final stage when Ross Schnell motored on the longest and least technical route of the weekend.
http://www.trestlebikepark.com/downloads/enduroresultscumulative.pdf
I love my IH mkIII w/offset bushes, if it's anything like a turner 5 spot(I assume it's pretty darn similar,2010 and earlier geometry is very close to the mkIII, both are dw-link although I'm sure dw did some tweaks for turner) especially a 2011 w/the updated geometry it's on the top of my list when/if the mkIII breaks..A DW bike I am impressed with and not sure why it is not on your list is the Turner 5spot
2011 5-spot? Just curious..I demo'd a 5 spot and was not impressed. It does climb better than my sx (4x), but felt tall and spindly. I know part of that was the build (long stem, flimsy wheels and leaky fox float set to 140), but I really expected it to make me hate my sx. Instead, it made me really appreciate my bike. I think the spot is way to xc to be on this list, personally.
Did you demo the 2010 or 2011? Turner made some improvements to the 2011 that made the bike feel a lot better, at least to me. I demo'd a 2010 and got the same impression you did. I now have a 2011 and the lower BB, slacker HA, and shorter headtube fixed that "too tall" feeling. With the 44mm headtube, the bike is now compatible with an Angleset should you want it slacker. Mine's at around 67° with a 160mm Lyrik.I demo'd a 5 spot and was not impressed. It does climb better than my sx (4x), but felt tall and spindly. I know part of that was the build (long stem, flimsy wheels and leaky fox float set to 140), but I really expected it to make me hate my sx. Instead, it made me really appreciate my bike. I think the spot is way to xc to be on this list, personally.
It takes a real man to wear tights.Agreed, it should be 69* and 14.5" BB height. Then it would be a man's bike.
Yeah, like it would matter to someone who buys bikes just to bling them out and post pictures of them on the Toobz.Agreed, it should be 69* and 14.5" BB height. Then it would be a man's bike.
LOL... don't worry, I didnt take this personally. It does seem like pick on BB day though.Lots of wrong info here
It has 5" rear travel, not 4"
It is actually optimized for a 150mm fork but will accept up to a 160mm
BB height is adjustable with the frame's HA. with a 150mm fork it has a 13.1 to 13.6ish depending on tires on both of those. With a 160mm fork it would be a bit higher.
Its a great bike, I owned one for a year and my wife still rides hers (second season).
Saying that all your friends broke chilcotins is also funny. They haven't even released them yet so if they were one of the few to actually be riding one it was a prototype and you can't fault them if they break. That is why they are prototypes. What about intenses cracking issues, mis-aligned rear ends, etc. Also "spots" had major cracking issues when they first came out, as did the DHR's (to the point they had to recall them). ALL COMPANIES have issues at times so if your only evidence of knolly's being crappy is a few guys you know who are on prototype chilcotins then that is not a good indication whatsoever on production knolly bikes at all.
Thats exactly the point. Saying don't buy a certain brand like you did above because you know a few people who broke them (again, prototypes) isn't exactly fair. There seem to actually be more issues with banshees right now (frame's cracking, bushing slop, axle wear, etc) than knolly so saying my suggestion wasn't good is kind of humorous to me after hearing what bike you suggested.
And yes, you are right... the Spitfire is 5in (127mm to be exact... maybe 128, I forget). My conversion is off obviously. And yes, 13.1bb with ZS headset and 160mm fork. That is still dang low though.Take this for what it is... some anecdotal feedback....
Again though, this is just a few guys that I know and may not be indicative of ALL knolly bikes (these were all the chilcotin model btw).
That son of a....Did you demo the 2010 or 2011? Turner made some improvements to the 2011 that made the bike feel a lot better, at least to me. I demo'd a 2010 and got the same impression you did. I now have a 2011 and the lower BB, slacker HA, and shorter headtube fixed that "too tall" feeling. With the 44mm headtube, the bike is now compatible with an Angleset should you want it slacker. Mine's at around 67° with a 160mm Lyrik.
have you played with stem and bar setup? i.e. slightly longer stem, and lower-rise bars?Just a word of caution, don't go too slack with a trail bike just cause it's the flavor of the week.
My Yeti is 66.5 HA and it's just too damn slack for a lot of XC trails. I have to practically kiss the front tire on some climbs, then the rear wheel gets unweighted and occasionally catches roots/rocks and spins the rear wheel. I'm actually going to lower the fork 20mm to steepen the HA
the positioning of your saddle on the seat post, and relative to the cranks/BB is really a big difference too...have you played with stem and bar setup? i.e. slightly longer stem, and lower-rise bars?
my nomad2 measures between 66.5 and 67 HA, and my uzzi/totem clocks in at 66...neither have a travel adjust fork. both (esp the nomad) get ridden on some long steep singletracks, and both tend to sag well into the rear travel.
anyway, for me the difference between a 60 mm and 70 mm stem was night and day in terms of the issue you were describing.
it also helps that both these frames have an ETT slightly on the short side (I'm 6' 3"), which means that for a given amount of fwd lean at my waist, i have more weight over the front wheel on a climb than I would on a longer top tube bike.
Somebody ban this man immediately!!!I'm actually going to lower the fork 20mm to steepen the HA
Oh, didn't realize we were talking about a "man's bike". I thought we were ISO a DHer's AM/ trail bike. My bad...Yeah... it's not a man's bike unless the HA is 64 or slacker and the BB 11" or lower.
Gotta love the e-pose.
Doing this makes the Asr 5 ride better in every way. That bike is still slack at 130mm, and it will give you better handling all around and a better seat tube angle for pedalling.I'm actually going to lower the fork 20mm to steepen the HA
No hate here. That bike looks pretty bad ass. I was the BB was lower, according to the geo chart it should be 14.17 in the low setting.i guess my gullible ass bought into the hype...but f- it, i put down some greenbacks for a deposit on the 2012 Trek Slash frameset today.
criticize/hate away!
thanks smartygirl. you sure showed me with failing lead balloon non-sarcasm!Oh, didn't realize we were talking about a "man's bike". I thought we were ISO a DHer's AM/ trail bike. My bad...
What? Is that English? You'll need to talk slower and use less slang if you want me to understand you. I'm old. I'm not a tough guy, but I know what I like, and I kinda figured the OP was looking for the same thing in a trail bike. That is: NOT the typical slightly slack and tall xc geometry. Sorry if my opinion makes you feel like you need to blindly take swings at me.thanks smartygirl. you sure showed me with failing lead balloon non-sarcasm!
continue posing on the internet as a heroic master of all things "core." it's a real win in life, to be an internet hardguy!
That is a nice looking ride. What's it weigh?Here's a more recent pic setup 1x10.