16" & 18" in stock at PricePoint ....quite pleased with mine. Durable enough, although I hesitate to accept the 'freeride' nomenclature of the marketing gurus.
Another steel frame thread.
- Thread starter i-ride
- Start date
I stand corrected.
the nashbar reynolds 853 is a great value in the low 200 range when the 20% discounts come around. -
http://www.nashbar.com/profile.cfm?sku=17655
Here's what I built up:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/soreyes/sets/72157600318479875/
Some of those pics show off the burly nature of the rear triangle tubing.
and some reviews -
http://www.mtbr.com/reviews/Bike_hardtail/product_128520.shtml
http://www.nashbar.com/profile.cfm?sku=17655
Here's what I built up:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/soreyes/sets/72157600318479875/
Some of those pics show off the burly nature of the rear triangle tubing.
and some reviews -
http://www.mtbr.com/reviews/Bike_hardtail/product_128520.shtml
I have to admit, that frame looks like a steal for only a couple hundred. I'd easily drop the dough if the geometry matched up (I didn't care to look as I don't need another steel frame).
Zion 660 Hardtail frame. Cro-Mo They say it's only good up to a 100mm fork but I've been using mine with a 120mm one and it handles fine.
It's also a cheaper option. It's my number two hardtail.
http://www.jensonusa.com/store/product/FR410A01-Zion+660+Frame.aspx
.. until it pulls the head tube clean off! it's not always just the handling, but how much leverage force the head tube can take, correct?
Not necessarily, especially if the frame isn't designed to be a lightweight race frame. I rode my 2000 Dean 853, with no headtube gussets, for 1 year with a 5" Forx on the front. Why? Because it came that way and was too lazy to lower the travel. Granted my riding was limited to xc and trail riding (NO JUMPS), but the bike is still running perfect to this day.
Thanks for your concern.
It seems pretty obvious that you don't ride a Steel Cro-Mo frame as a XC hardtail.
With a 20mm difference (a little less than an inch 25.4mm) I'm really living on the edge....Oh yeah!
Well if it's such an undiscernable difference, why mention it in the first place? Plus, it's the slippery slope deal. There are manufacturer recs for a reason.
Besides, for something like this, I don't think you'll notice any issues.. UNTIL you encounter a catastrophic one. No, I don't ride a steel bike.
I mean, isn't it conceivable that you could break the ht or junction by running a fork that's too big? It's not like I'm way out in left field.
Besides, for something like this, I don't think you'll notice any issues.. UNTIL you encounter a catastrophic one. No, I don't ride a steel bike.
I mean, isn't it conceivable that you could break the ht or junction by running a fork that's too big? It's not like I'm way out in left field.
I have been riding my Cotic Soul for about 18 months now. And it's still rocking my world big time. 
http://www.vorb.org.nz/ftopicp-726611.html#726611
http://www.cotic.co.uk/
They are now making a burlier version of my bike. The Bfe.
It's rated for 100-130 mm forks.
Go Cotic. You wont regret it.
http://www.vorb.org.nz/ftopicp-726611.html#726611
http://www.cotic.co.uk/
They are now making a burlier version of my bike. The Bfe.
It's rated for 100-130 mm forks.
Go Cotic. You wont regret it.
I switched From a full sus to this two years ago and ive been really happy with it. I dont know if you being tall is a issue. I read something about leg extension but im 6'3 and its all in the legs.
Aaaah steel....
