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any good HEADSHOCK mech. here?

So I've got this headshock off an older C'dale that I am trying to overhaul.
I pulled it apart with the Castle tools. Dumped out the old oil and dumped in the new oil. But the problem is, is that after I reinstall the assembly and air it up and push up and down on the forks there is a slight "empty" spot where it feels like the piston is out of the oil, then in it a millimeter later. This produces a "clunk" in the fork. It sucks.
Anyone know how to take of this problem?

Thanks fellow wrenching Monkies!
 
Z

Zonic Man

Guest
Originally posted by Internal14
So I've got this headshock off an older C'dale that I am trying to overhaul.
I pulled it apart with the Castle tools. Dumped out the old oil and dumped in the new oil. But the problem is, is that after I reinstall the assembly and air it up and push up and down on the forks there is a slight "empty" spot where it feels like the piston is out of the oil, then in it a millimeter later. This produces a "clunk" in the fork. It sucks.
Anyone know how to take of this problem?

Thanks fellow wrenching Monkies!
Uh, wait. Something is wrong here....

weren't YOU a V/C mechanic? WTF?
 
you are correct.....but this one is before my time and they have changed....again. Big problem with that company, so technologically driven they make last years **** obsolete before it hits the market. Grrr......You know how many different internal headshocks cartridges there are? I'd venture a guess at over ten different versions.
Now I'm not talking different model of forks....I'm talking actual different damper cart.
 
Originally posted by Nobody
Fatty 50/70 with adjustable damping but no on/off lock out?

or DD60 with on/off lock out?

I'm familiar with both (have a couple years working with them) There's a philips-head screw near the top of the damper that's used for bleeding the chamber of air.

If you add oil through the bleed-hole, whilst working the damper, you should basically be able to 'burp' the damper. The unit's a lot like the old Judy damper - a basic dual-direction piston in a closed chamber.
DD60 with damper control w/lockout.

Yup, saw the phillips head and all that. Dumped out the old oil, which was nasty! and poured in the new oil.

Still after makign sure there is no air in there, to the best of my ability, there is still a small amount of play and an audible knock when ever you go from compression to rebound.

I'm stumped.
 
Originally posted by shocktower
NO ,Do you ;) ,why is it most of the guy`s who work at bike shop`s only get one day off ,poor bastards
Not only do we have to work six days a week, but we get stuck working the holidays....like today, Veterans Day, when it seems like everyone wants to bring their bike in and crab at me about some minute little vibration or sound while they were out enjoying thier day off. Think I really give a rats arse about your tiny little problem? Nope think again. I may smile and fix your problem for a slight cost, making you feel all happy and important, but all in all I loath the fools who try and get me to pity them about some noise while they are out ridding on thier days off.
Grrrrr:angryfire
Bring me some coffee in the morning and beer(NewCastle only please) in the afternoon if you want me to be truly happy about working on your bike on your day off.:think:

OK....Rant done.
Thanks you Fellow :monkey: 's for being here for me. Yet again....
 

cbchess

Chimp
Oct 1, 2001
2
0
Richmond,va
I had the same problem with mine and I thought it was cooked.
Turned out I had put too much air back in .
So there was enough oil but to much air on the other side of the shock so it actually was SHOOTING the whole mechanism back up to the top(or the fork out of the bottom) of the Headshock with a great big Crack or clunk.
I was sure my shock was spent but I let some air out and its been fine ever since!Good luck !:rolleyes: