[bullcrew]

inverted? ifp or bladder? looks noice.

it is inverted not bladder or ifp thought, there is a full shimstack in there. The site has a TON of info to the Fox 40 system on the site.

Comp is on top, its a sealed system self leveling oil height twin chamber spring preload and swapping shims is STUPID EASY......... top cap pops off and the shim stack is right there.

I'll post up more info later with pics internals etc....

Avalanche cartridge #2 completely different beast and fits the 40, I'll have ride time and breakdown next week.

 

[Inclag]

OK, so finally getting around to installing my cartridge in my Boxxer and I can not get the rebound nut to cinch properly so that I can torque it to 15-20 oz. -in. The nut threads on fully, but will not fully tension on the fork leg like the normal Boxxer nut and crush washer does. I installed grease onto the o-rings, is this why RTV is recommended?

 

[Sandwich]

Look forward to hearing your review there guy...

 

[Jm_]

OK, so finally getting around to installing my cartridge in my Boxxer and I can not get the rebound nut to cinch properly so that I can torque it to 15-20 oz. -in. The nut threads on fully, but will not fully tension on the fork leg like the normal Boxxer nut and crush washer does. I installed grease onto the o-rings, is this why RTV is recommended?

Rebound nut? You talking about the foot-nut (bottom of the leg/houses the compression adjuster)?

 

[Inclag]

Rebound nut? You talking about the foot-nut (bottom of the leg/houses the compression adjuster)?

Yes, the rebound foot-nut. Sorry if it was somewhat ambiguous. I was typing up this post on the phone in bed.

 

[Jm_]

Yes, the rebound foot-nut. Sorry if it was somewhat ambiguous. I was typing up this post on the phone in bed.

Oh, on my Avy cartridge the bottom is the compression adjuster, and top is the rebound. That's what threw me. On my old marzocchi forks I've always had to use an impact wrench to get it to tighten, except the last time I did this I snapped the threads at the bottom of my dummy-shaft (spring-side). Just a little bit of impact wrench might help, but be careful not to torque too much. Sometimes "pulling" the fork apart at the same time as trying to tighten it (using a friend) helps with this. I assume the problem you are having is that it just "spins" without really tightening?

 

[Inclag]

Haha, yea I was reading through the literature from Avy and lo-and-behold the bottom adjuster is actually for compression. Derp. I'll give the impact approach a try and see how that works. Thanks for the tip!

 

[yellowdogx]

Just put my new avalanche cart into my 2010 boxxer teams and I had a few questions.

I used the oil height method to get my levels right and I just wanted to make sure I did it right. The measurement is taken with the stantion and the damper rod at full compression (so you would have to totally remove the top cap/rebound adjuster to allow you to fully compress the rod and actually measure the height)?

And my second question is what is the service interval with the new cartridge? (2010 boxxer)

THANKS!

 

[bullcrew]

Just put my new avalanche cart into my 2010 boxxer teams and I had a few questions.

I used the oil height method to get my levels right and I just wanted to make sure I did it right. The measurement is taken with the stantion and the damper rod at full compression (so you would have to totally remove the top cap/rebound adjuster to allow you to fully compress the rod and actually measure the height)?

And my second question is what is the service interval with the new cartridge? (2010 boxxer)

THANKS!

Yes compress leg with top off and look down the level should be the reuired height of oil to the top of stanchion. Compressed the top of the cartridge should just be under fluid.

I went 18 months on my last one so I between would be fine, mine was fine when i changed it .

 

[yellowdogx]

Yes compress leg with top off and look down the level should be the reuired height of oil to the top of stanchion. Compressed the top of the cartridge should just be under fluid.

I went 18 months on my last one so I between would be fine, mine was fine when i changed it .

Thanks, thats how I did it.

 

[Frisco]

I just put one of these in my 2010 Team Boxxer and have to admit that it is definitely an improvement in suspension quality. I only have one weekend on it but was thinking I'd post a little mini review after a few more weeks (I'm going to whistler and than to a local DH race). I do think I might like to try a little more high speed compression. Has anyone taken it apart to adjust the shims without the special tool Craig sells?

 

[92SE-R]

finally got my avy cartridge in my 2011 boxxer rc. the new rc chassis is still effed up. It was so bad, my cartridge was touching the stantion. I sanded the inside of the lowers like Craig suggested and got it pretty close to centered.

parking lot test, I'm getting a loud clicking on end of compression, start of rebound. crap. turns out, spring heatshrink had migrated to the top right around same time. fixed that and the cartridge is silent.

first few rides, man, this thing is ridiculously plush through medium to large sized rock gardens. its pretty crazy how the faster you go, the less feedback you feel. on fast, small braking bumps, it feels about the same as the stock damper. I also noticed I am bottoming out on 3-6ft drops. I don't notice it till after the ride when I see the oring smashed up against the crown. hydraulic bottomout works.

what I want to know is what you guys would recommend for softening the cartridge a bit right off the top, but having a bit more ramp up at the end of its travel? any suggestions?

 

[Verskis]

Put more oil in the damping leg to reduce the air volume and make the spring effect more progressive.

 

[ocelot]

You can also reduce the air volume inside the damping leg by screwing on the top cap while the leg is compressed.

 

[ocelot]

Whoops. That won't give you a ramp towards the end, but it'll soften the bottoming.

 

[92SE-R]

will oil height only affect ramp up like marz forks, or will it add compression damping as well? what about making it a bit softer off the top?

 

[bustanutley]

Sounds like you are having harshness from friction in the chassis. Make sure you get the damper running as concentric as you can and run a lot of oil in the spring leg, I run 90cc. Turn the fork upside down for a bit before you go ride. I found the damper to be just a little heavy on the rebound from avas initial setting suggestions and backed it off a few clicks. If those things don't help, there is something not concentric in your fork, likely only solved by sanding down bushings or getting new lowers.

Higher Oil height ramp up the bottom of the fork

BTW I love my ava damped boxxer, I love it more eveytime I ride it and it gets better the faster I go.

 

[bullcrew]

If you need to revalve T, stop by my house if it goes that direction....
Sorry bout being non responsive, been dealt a pretty heavy hand in life lately.

 

[Verskis]

Adding oil will not do anything to the damping, it will just alter the effective spring rate.
If you want it to feel softer in small hits and slower riding, back off the low speed compression damping adjuster, if it is not full open yet.

 

[92SE-R]

I have it almost centered, definitely not where it will have an issue. I've cycled it without the spring side and its very smooth with no binding. Craig gave me a few suggestions and ill post up after I get a ride with them tomorrow. loving it so far, but I think I can get it perfect with a couple more tweaks.

 

[92SE-R]

I have it almost centered, definitely not where it will have an issue. I've cycled it without the spring side and its very smooth with no binding. Craig gave me a few suggestions and ill post up after I get a ride with them tomorrow. loving it so far, but I think I can get it perfect with a couple more tweaks.

so I swapped to the light spring from x-light spring. bottomout improved slightly. small bump is still harsh, especially with braking bumps today. any ideas?

 

[Kanye West]

To set the concentricity correctly (which I've found is necessary with these cartridges), install everything, turn the whole thing upside down, bottom it out which basically sets the base valve sleeve inside the bottoming sleeve, and loosen and re-tighten the footnut. Cycle the damper side through by hand, and there should be no "clunking" as the bottoming mechanism engages and disengages.

As for the harshness with that fork...well, I can tell you it's not coming from the damper interfaces. There are only 2 sliding surfaces in that and both are very well finished and free-moving. Polish the bushings and grease the hell out of the seals to start with, and make sure the spring plunger is moving freely.

 

[Verskis]

As for the harshness with that fork...well, I can tell you it's not coming from the damper interfaces. There are only 2 sliding surfaces in that and both are very well finished and free-moving. Polish the bushings and grease the hell out of the seals to start with, and make sure the spring plunger is moving freely.

This, and make sure you are not running excessive low speed compression damping, it's the adjuster at the bottom. You wouldn't be the first one to mix up the compression and rebound adjusters, because they are the other way around in the stock Boxxer damper.

 

[92SE-R]

This, and make sure you are not running excessive low speed compression damping, it's the adjuster at the bottom. You wouldn't be the first one to mix up the compression and rebound adjusters, because they are the other way around in the stock Boxxer damper.

definitely not mistaking rebound and lsc. I'm actually 17 clicks out with rebound right at 12 clicks out. ill try hacktastics method of making sure I'm concentric.

 

[ChrisRobin]

He needs to come out with his Fox 36 cartridge!!!

 

[92SE-R]

So I'm taking it apart to soften up the compression and get the rebound a bit faster. I am trying to get the compression valve off, but the rebound valve broke free first. Any ideas on how to get the compression valve off?

 

[Craig Seekins]

So I'm taking it apart to soften up the compression and get the rebound a bit faster. I am trying to get the compression valve off, but the rebound valve broke free first. Any ideas on how to get the compression valve off?

Reapply Loctite to the cartridge tube cap and tighten using 23.5 mm shaft clamps at the base of the cartridge tube. Wait to cure. Apply propane heat for 2-3 seconds on lower cartridge base in the area of the gold compression adaptor threads. Use the 10 mm shaft clamps to hold the gold compression adaptor and remove using the 4 pronged tool on the cartridge cap.

 

[Craig Seekins]

He needs to come out with his Fox 36 cartridge!!!

Our open bath Cartridge for the Fox 36 O/B, and 2010 and older 160 mm FIT versions(rebound adjuster must be on top of fork) are available now.

http://www.avalanchedownhillracing.com/Fox%2040/Fox%2036%20Open%20Bath%20Cartridge%20Kit.htm

 

[Rhubarb]

So I have an opportunity to finally get some Avy gear. Craig was helpfull to try and help, international shipping and payment, but I have an easy opportunity for payment and handcarrying that I just cant past this up.

The only thing I am stuck on is the oil. I have been servicing my own RS forks for years but this is really just dampener and motor oil. I am not familair with open bath oil and what is best for the Avy Carts. The US oils discussed here dont rely help since they are not available for me. I can really only rely on Motorbike shops in South Africa and Chain Reaction. I need to get this order sorted before I return to SA so I cant confirm oil availbilty there. So I am looking into what is available on CRC. I would hate to get the cartridge and then be stuck on the oil.
What I can see is avialable from CRC is
Rock Oil SVI suspension fluids - multiple weights.
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=8399

Stendec Crystal Fork fluid - multiple weights
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=112

Is anyone familair or experienced enough to recommend these?

 

[sethimus]

check ebay, i was able to get the golden spectro oil form the us quite cheap, i think it was this seller:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/400385575873

 

[Owennn]

Don't go by advertised weight, go by CST. Have a look at the chart here. In my Avalanche I ended up mixing some 2.5w and 5w Motorex suspension fluid according to the CST values in this chart. The one Avalanche recommends is listed at 16.9 CST@40c.

http://www.peterverdone.com/wiki/index.php?title=Suspension_Fluid

 

[bigmotherwhale]

im trying to install my avy cart from 32mm boxxer teams (coil) to 35mm boxxer WC solo air, could anyone here tell me if i need to change my shim-stack to suit the air fork or whether it will be OK how it was set up before, i have tooling to take the thing apart but i will need to know what im changing first,
Also if anyone has the adapters for fitting the cartridge to 35mm boxxers and want to sell them please let me know....

 

[eurotrash666]

im trying to install my avy cart from 32mm boxxer teams (coil) to 35mm boxxer WC solo air, could anyone here tell me if i need to change my shim-stack to suit the air fork or whether it will be OK how it was set up before, i have tooling to take the thing apart but i will need to know what im changing first,
Also if anyone has the adapters for fitting the cartridge to 35mm boxxers and want to sell them please let me know....

Sounds like you need to give Craig a call. Unless you're built like a horse jockey, he'll steer you away from the air spring... he does have a valving setup for the WC if you insist, though. Ava should also be the go-to for spares, kinda obvious.

I took his advice and downgraded my WC to a R2C2. Then I downgraded that to eliminate the bottom-out control that is no longer needed with the ABS on the cartridge. Shoulda just bought the cheap fork to begin with...!

 

[bigmotherwhale]

I would give him a call but im in the UK and it would cost a fortune, you have told me all i need to know really, i sent craig an email but all he told me was how much it would cost for a revalve and the adapters, im thinking of selling my boxxer WC and getting a set of 2013 RC instead, i liked the way the cart was set up and would like to leave it alone i have thought about getting a set of 888 im not yet decided, i like both but they both have their flaws in one way or another, mainly for the 888 the distributor in the uk, boxxer is expensive but the spares are easy to get hold of, anyone got any thoughts on this? might be another thread but which chassis is best boxxer or marzzochi?

 

[Tomasis]

888, IMO! feels pluuussh.

 

[norbar]

I'm thinking of switching my avy boxxer wc to coil. Anyone done that switch? For now the fork is harsh on chatter and Craig suggests that anything over 55psi overpreloads the negative spring causing the stiff feel (yes the air spring has just been completely rebuild, every part is new). Did you feel the same in your air sprung boxxers and was it better after the change?

 

[Udi]

I know I've already given you my opinion - but if it helps, it might be cheaper to just sell your WC as-is (with stock damper reinstalled) and to buy a coil version with the proceeds - rather than spending money on converting. Would have the downside of having some downtime though.

 

[norbar]

I know I've already given you my opinion - but if it helps, it might be cheaper to just sell your WC as-is (with stock damper reinstalled) and to buy a coil version with the proceeds - rather than spending money on converting. Would have the downside of having some downtime though.

I was stupid enough to sell my MiCo damper. If I can buy one I'll gladly do that.

 

[sethimus]

there's a new option avaiable:

http://www.avalanchedownhillracing.com/HSB/High Speed Blow-off System.htm

 

[ChrisRobin]

Yes please! I'll have to re-read that a couple times before I understand what it does though.