[stumpjump]

So Ive bled it twice over the past hour, chased bubbles out like none other and tops the fluid just to make sure there is as little air as possible. When I put everything back together it still is a little soft. Definitely not like the other side. Any have any tips besides the obvious sram ones.

Juicy 7's. These brakes are becoming a giant pain in the @$$.

 

[mfzbike]

are you using the avid bleed kit? the one with two syringes..
If so, try pulling and pushing fluid with both syringes. That might dislodge some bubbles.

 

[stumpjump]

Got the kit, followed the video instructions. The only thing I haven't dont as of yet is take the back wheel off and, take the pads out and push the pistons all the way in. I will do that if it will make it engage better, but its a lot of work on a sunday.

 

[mfzbike]

I always take the pads out and put in a spacer. Also i try to spray a little tri flow on the piston walls so there is as little friction as possible.

 

[racingsessions]

I always take the pads out and put in a spacer. Also i try to spray a little tri flow on the piston walls so there is as little friction as possible.

that's a dumb idea, not only are the seals not made for tri flow, but you run the risk of contamination of the pads and the brake fluid.

 

[toodles]

Don't pull as hard on the syringe. Try to maintain a bit of pressure in the system. I swear the seals on those systems are all uni-directional pressure wise. Attempting to 'draw' bubbles out using a vacuum usually gets more air in the system.

I reckon bleed the unit in a single pass bottom to top, take them out and ride for half an hour - then bleed the lever again using minimal vacuum.

 

[stumpjump]

Ok so let me take a little venture on this one, and correct me if I am wrong, if I adjust the lever reach adjust screw to almost all of the way out, and I also push the brake piston all the way in, i will allow the maximum amount of fluid to get into the line/system thus maximizing the pressure build up when I tighten them back to their original settings. I know I need more pressure in the system because if I press down with the syringe it makes the lever grab much earlier and tighter than if I just do a standard textbook bleed.

Someone come out on a limb with me on this one. Ive never debated going to back v-brakes until tonight. I have few ideas leaft.

 

[sanjuro]

Do you have the lever engaged when you bleed just the caliper?

Also, examine your system. I had a problem bleeding and it turned out to be a small crack in the caliper.

 

[big cal]

Don't pull as hard on the syringe. Try to maintain a bit of pressure in the system. I swear the seals on those systems are all uni-directional pressure wise. Attempting to 'draw' bubbles out using a vacuum usually gets more air in the system.

I reckon bleed the unit in a single pass bottom to top, take them out and ride for half an hour - then bleed the lever again using minimal vacuum.

mmm interesting, i never seem to get good bleeds, and when i get frustrated i just keep drawing a vacuum harder and harder wondering where the flip the bubbles are coming from... thanks for the tip.

 

[Jim Mac]

 

[amishmatt]

Also, examine your system. I had a problem bleeding and it turned out to be a small crack in the caliper.

This. I've never had a problem getting a good bleed on my Juicy's unless there was a problem with air getting introduced into the system from the caliper or lever. Once it was the piston seal, once it was the lever reservoir.

Also, take the time to pull the wheel and brake pads, push the pistons all the way in and put in the spacers. If you fill the system without retracting the pads fully, new pads may cause rubbing that you can't dial out.

 

[stumpjump]

Yeah I watched this video and did it step by step exactly how he did it but my level still only starts pulling my lever and its realy squishy at that. My other brake starts to pull right as I grab it and is a tight tight grab.

I should add that these are new brakes and the only reason I had to bleed them is that I unscrewed the lever so I wouldnt have to take the linkage apart. I did a bleed on them for that but they have been soft since.

 

[Jim Mac]

FWIW, I had the same issue on my 1st bleed, but for whatever reason my brakes feel much better now - I think (for myself) it was more of a new pad/rotor wear in issue - replaced all and did a bleed as well.

 

[boogenman]

If you are really doing exactly what the vid demonstrates I am also going to say that you are using to much force on the syringe during the entire process.

Juicy 7's are super easy to bleed and work on.

 

[Big J]

try pulling and pushing fluid with both syringes. That might dislodge some bubbles.

Thus far the 'Best' tip for 2009.....

I couldn't get my rear Code to bleed w/out feeling a little spongy and I was careful not to draw air in to the system. After loading each syringe with fluid and working it back & forth about half dozen bubbles came out of the top end.

Thanks again for the excellent info!

J

 

[stumpjump]

Im going to take out the pads, insert a credit card in between to force as much fluid I can into the system. If this doesnt work I am seriously about fed up with these brakes.

 

[ronan]

Im going to take out the pads, insert a credit card in between to force as much fluid I can into the system. If this doesnt work I am seriously about fed up with these brakes.

good luck fitting a disk in after

 

[jasonvelocity]

I had the same issue after two bleeds. It turns out I had to have the master cylinder replaced.

 

[mr-biker]

Of all the brakes I've bled, I found the avid 7 a pain in the neck. There was air in the lever like you described. what I done was I filled up 20cc of dot fluid in a syringe. Then I put it on the calliper bleed nipple with some tubing, opened that, then opened the bleed screw on the lever. I then flushed the 20cc through the brake and out of the lever. I then closed the two bleed ports and I had now issues since.

make sure you vibrate the calliper, hose and MC when bleeding avids.

 

[slyfink]

Question for you all: what do you do with used DOT fluid?

 

[slowitdown]

Question for you all: what do you do with used DOT fluid?

I'd check at a local auto parts store or repair garage, either one should be able to tell you who recycles DOT fluids. Most any place that does brake work on cars & trucks will know who in your area will take used DOT fluids.

 

[slyfink]

I'd check at a local auto parts store or repair garage, either one should be able to tell you who recycles DOT fluids. Most any place that does brake work on cars & trucks will know who in your area will take used DOT fluids.

good point. thanks.

 

[stumpjump]

Of all the brakes I've bled, I found the avid 7 a pain in the neck. There was air in the lever like you described. what I done was I filled up 20cc of dot fluid in a syringe. Then I put it on the calliper bleed nipple with some tubing, opened that, then opened the bleed screw on the lever. I then flushed the 20cc through the brake and out of the lever. I then closed the two bleed ports and I had now issues since.

make sure you vibrate the calliper, hose and MC when bleeding avids.

Does anyone get what he means?

Just open the bleed screw at the lever and vibrate the crap out of the line and insert more fluid?

 

[stumpjump]

I had the same issue after two bleeds. It turns out I had to have the master cylinder replaced.

These brakes are less than a week old. I would highly doubt that that is the problemo.

 

[mr-biker]

Does anyone get what he means?

Just open the bleed screw at the lever and vibrate the crap out of the line and insert more fluid?

That won't be enough to get the air out, you have to force out the air with pressure i.e. a syringe. I didn't have the bleed kit so I left the lever bleed screw open, while pumping fluid in from the calliper, once I seen no air coming through, I sealed the system.


If you are trying it this way, make sure you have plenty of rags.

The Last sentence of my previous post is a general tip for bleeding avids (reading the thread name gave me reason to).