[Kanye West]

cool.
Then you should have no problem figuring out how to get your hands on spare or warranty parts. Really it is common sense.

If your power steering goes on your 2010 ford exlporer do you call Ford or take it to a dealer?

I sure as sh*t don't have it towed to a dealer to be exclusively at their mercy.

 

[General Lee]

Things that are supposed to be user serviceable shouldn't have internal parts fail/snap when someone slightly overtightens a bolt. It's called PROPER DESIGN.



Ya it's really awezome how clear they are about that on their site too! Especially since every mfg. is the same about these kinda things everybody should just intrinsically know that they have to go through the LBS, even if they didn't buy it through one!

I'm not going to bother with a proper design vs. proper use argument and who is at fault, but clearly the new one is designed to be more hack-proof.

But their warranty policy is crystal clear: www.scram.com and click 'service' (duh), then click 'warranty info' (getting warm), then 'warranty policy' (hotter), then read the first paragraph 'SRAM warrants its products to be free from defects in materials or workmanship for a period of two
years after original purchase. This warranty only applies to the original owner and is not transferable. Claims under this warranty must be made through the retailer where the bicycle or the SRAM component was purchased. Original proof of purchase is required.' (That was easy)

thankfully they make it really easy and let you take it to your LBS too, and often w/out proof of purchase if its within that model year. then they send a new part/fork/caliper/etc to the the shop with a prepaid shipping container so you can mail the broken part back after the new part arrives in about 2-3 days. unlike Fox and a number of other companies who make you send everything back first (on your dime no less) before they ship out a replacement and make you wait as much as several weeks.

 

[Kanye West]

All the other big suspension manufacturers are perfectly happy to deal with a customer directly if they so desire. Not sure why RockShox has to be the exception.

SRAM/RockShox nut-huggers amuse me.

 

[boogenman]

I sure as sh*t don't have it towed to a dealer to be exclusively at their mercy.

You are the 0.01% of people who would not return a new product to the place of purchase to have a defect repaired free of charge.

 

[gemini2k]

cool.
Then you should have no problem figuring out

You're right, I can figure it out, don't buy RS, buy zoke. If I ever have any questions/problems with my zoke forks I call ZOKE USA and talk directly to their tech guys. They give me straight honest answers and will give me valuable tips for the fork. ALSO, they'll send parts directly to my door (IMAGINE THAT!) and I'll get them in a day or 2! OH ya, and their forks don't suck, which is a plus.

 

[Kanye West]

You are the 0.01% of people who would not return a new product to the place of purchase to have a defect repaired free of charge.

No, I am of a large part of the population who will NOT have their vehicle towed to be at the mercy of crooks. It's one thing if I can drive my car back out of there if they don't do something right. If it's stuck there, you WILL get fvcked somehow.

 

[gemini2k]

You are the 0.01% of people who would not return a new product to the place of purchase to have a defect repaired free of charge.

Yep, were part of that strange group of DH/FR people who ride so much, and push our stuff so hard we have to be able to work on gear on our own. We're also part of that CRAZY group of people who wouldn't want ANYONE touching parts on our bike that our lives will depend on without us watching them.

 

[boogenman]

All the other big suspension manufacturers are perfectly happy to deal with a customer directly if they so desire. Not sure why RockShox has to be the exception.

SRAM/RockShox nut-huggers amuse me.

It is so they do not have every grom, hack, e-whore and tool blowing up thier phone lines 24/7 with stupid questions and complaints.

Sram even uses BTI and QBP to handle a majority of the warranty and spare part business to better serve the cycling community.

I'm no sram nut-hugger either. My trail bikes are 100% decked out with Fox by choice.

Man I missed this place!!

 

[General Lee]

dang it, i just pulled it all apart and lubed everything and put oil in it. It was messy too. i came out looking like i lost in a grease gun fight ha ha ha.

ill be riding it today so is there anything i can look for performance wise? will it be harsh or lack rebound adjustment or what?

the change in parts addresses 2 things:

1. a top-out 'click' that bothered some people but was not a performance problem. good on them for fixing it though.

2. a circlip on top of the rebound assembly that could fail if the user turned the adjuster too far or too hard (or aimlessly without knowing what it was doing a i suspect some did).

performance-wise it should be the same fork; a c-clip and a top out spring don't do much for performance. but lube and maintenance do!!

 

[Kanye West]

It is so they do not have every grom, hack, e-whore and tool blowing up thier phone lines 24/7 with stupid questions and complaints.

Sram even uses BTI and QBP to handle a majority of the warranty and spare part business to better serve the cycling community.

I'm no sram nut-hugger either. My trail bikes are 100% decked out with Fox by choice.

Man I missed this place!!

Well, that's because they HAVE to.

I used to be kinda neutral on the SRAM/RS thing. They made a pricepoint product and you would get what you pay for. It filled a market niche very nicely. Now it's just as expensive as anything else and they're made even cheaper and are more of a liability.

 

[boogenman]

So if you you are not happy with the product why are you hanging out here trolling?

Go hug some Zoke/Manitou nuts somewhere and beat it.

 

[Kanye West]

I don't think ANYONE is making a proper suspension fork these days to be honest. They've all got their major faults. Some are just more of a liability than others.

 

[go-ride.com]

the change in parts addresses 2 things:

1. a top-out 'click' that bothered some people but was not a performance problem. good on them for fixing it though.

2. a circlip on top of the rebound assembly that could fail if the user turned the adjuster too far or too hard (or aimlessly without knowing what it was doing a i suspect some did).

performance-wise it should be the same fork; a c-clip and a top out spring don't do much for performance. but lube and maintenance do!!

There's a 3rd improvement that is alluded to in the video. The red rebound seal head had binding issues in some forks. That is why the new one has a machined ring in it so you can tell if a fork has the new seal head or not. For those of you will rebound stiction this is probably the cause. Once you get a new seal head the fork is very smooth.

 

[boogenman]

Although SRAM has come up witha fix for the issues I am glad I/my wallet decided to wait until next year to get my hands on this fork.

I might even wait longer to get one if I ever get my push internals for my current boxxer (-:

 

[Huck Banzai]

Whatever happened to "There's nothing wrong with them; why bring this up on the net; mine's fine....." line on 2010 Boxxers?

Many smarty-pants singing different tunes now.

And why is SRAM the *ONLY* company that wont EVER assist a person directly? Hell, I got small parts direct from Shimano, who's bigger in this business?

And why are you replying to make excuses for that?

 

[Kanye West]

Whatever happened to "There's nothing wrong with them; why bring this up on the net; mine's fine....." line on 2010 Boxxers?

Many smarty-pants singing different tunes now.

And why is SRAM the *ONLY* company that wont EVER assist a person directly? Hell, I got small parts direct from Shimano, who's bigger in this business?

And why are you replying to make excuses for that?

It's just changed into a different line of excuses. Watch closely. The SRAM/RS nut-huggers are a crafty bunch.

 

[slowmtb]

BA HA HA HA HA HA HA

 

[Zark]

There's a 3rd improvement that is alluded to in the video. The red rebound seal head had binding issues in some forks. That is why the new one has a machined ring in it so you can tell if a fork has the new seal head or not. For those of you will rebound stiction this is probably the cause. Once you get a new seal head the fork is very smooth.

Bingo, That was the case on my buddies wc fork.

Now the Team still has issues regarding spring rate, its too bloody progressive. You shouldn't have to cut the elastomer to tune a suspension rate, total BS. Why isn't this new high-lo independant compression handling these forces? Why revert back to goaddamned hard as rock elastomers to prevent bottom out? Why no progressive rate steel spring? I'm 180 geared up, riding and racing over the last 3 months I can only get 6.5" out of the medium spring and I'm topping the spring weight classification. What do you do to get full travel? huck to flat off a roof? Please

 

[miuan]

I can only get 6.5" out of the medium spring. What do you do to get full travel? Why isn't this new high-lo independant compression handling these forces?

Have you tried to decrease the air/oil volume in lowers?
HSC/LSC damping is not primarily meant to prevent bottom outs. It is SPEED, not position sensitive.

 

[iRider]

Opened my WC yesterday to see what is going on as RS couldn't tell my LBS if my fork has the new or old rebound assembly (great CS for sure, why do they even have serial #s on their forks? ) and I have to say I was pleasantly surprised. Amounts of oil were OK, it had the new rebound assembly and there was grease on the seals, although not a whole lot.

 

[go-ride.com]

Bingo, That was the case on my buddies wc fork.

Now the Team still has issues regarding spring rate, its too bloody progressive. You shouldn't have to cut the elastomer to tune a suspension rate, total BS. Why isn't this new high-lo independant compression handling these forces? Why revert back to goaddamned hard as rock elastomers to prevent bottom out? Why no progressive rate steel spring? I'm 180 geared up, riding and racing over the last 3 months I can only get 6.5" out of the medium spring and I'm topping the spring weight classification. What do you do to get full travel? huck to flat off a roof? Please

I've got two fast (Mid pack Pro) guys who weigh 180 w/o gear and run the soft spring. If you want to stay with the med just remove the elastomer, or cut about 1" - 1.5" off.

 

[climbingbubba]

so after rebuilding mine it seems to be leaking out of the rebound knobs. any suggestion on this?

i took it apart and re did it to make sure everything was tight. the way i did it was

1. washer/oring combo with the rubber side touching the fork and the metal side touching the red knob

2. tightened down the metal piece with the rebound adjusters on it

3. put the red rebound knob on

4. put the plastic washer on

5. put the gray rebound knob on

6. put the clip on

so it seems to somehow be leaking from the actual knobs and its coming up through part # 2 i listed above. it is not coming from around the #1 part.

when you have the knobs off and you are looking at part #2 it is red and it has a big C clip on it. the oil is first noticable building up there.

any suggestions? im about to take it into get it looked at

 

[iRider]

I had the same but I am pretty sure it is just the lubrication oil that gets into the damper shaft when you fill it in and then slowly leaks out.

so after rebuilding mine it seems to be leaking out of the rebound knobs. any suggestion on this?

i took it apart and re did it to make sure everything was tight. the way i did it was

1. washer/oring combo with the rubber side touching the fork and the metal side touching the red knob

2. tightened down the metal piece with the rebound adjusters on it

3. put the red rebound knob on

4. put the plastic washer on

5. put the gray rebound knob on

6. put the clip on

so it seems to somehow be leaking from the actual knobs and its coming up through part # 2 i listed above. it is not coming from around the #1 part.

when you have the knobs off and you are looking at part #2 it is red and it has a big C clip on it. the oil is first noticable building up there.

any suggestions? im about to take it into get it looked at