[Scurry]

I just got a near new 2003 boxxer race off a freind for a fairly good price, I think, problem, When he originally got it from rockshox it was in 6 in. He called them and tried to get it into 7 inches. He didnt do it correctly, so it has some parts mixed up inside. Like it has the big all travle spacers on top but when I take off the top caps and compress it it only goes down to about 6 inches. Can somone point me in the right direction here? I am not very good with the fork thing, this is my first DC.

Also at my firts race (a snow race, lots of crashes) I twisted the fork some how, i figure Ill, loosen everything up and it will be ok, WRONG! I also cant figure this out, I am sure I can ride it like this but I would rather have my fork look straight.

Any help would be greatly apreciated, the rock shox site isnt exactly helping me much, so a point in the right direction is what I need.

Sorry, I had a topic that was knda related to this.

 

[RhinofromWA]

Go to their site.

click here

select manuals and more

select Consumer

select RS Service guide

select 2003-2004 Boxxer Service guide

Print this out and you have everything you need to figure out the 7 inch travel setting is where it should be.

As for the twisting you might have twisted your lowers...and that is not repairable...but it is replaceable. I doubt just loosening everything would straighten it out. It may be time for a new lower....is it so bent you can tell easily....then it is definately time to replace.

Rhino

 

[jackalope]

Kinda had the same problem with my 03' Boxxer race (sans the twisted lowers)...Basically couldn't get more than 6 inches of travel, and I did have the spacers on top of the springs...So I then downloaded the above mentioned manual and thought that something was wrong with lower spacer configuration...Decided to take the fork apart, given how simple it looked in the manual (and being a Race model, there's really not much to it)...Turns out the lower spacers were configured correctly, so I dejectedly put it back together and poured in new oil (same oil weight by the way)...Now I get 7 inches of travel and it's much plusher - go figure...I didn't think the old oil looked that bad, but apparently it was ready to be changed...

(As a side note, does anybody actually run these forks in 6 inch mode on purpose?? Just curious...)

All that being said, you may also consider changing to a softer spring(s) if the oil changing trick doesn't work...

I will also say that while you can certainly argue that RS(Sram) products are not the best on the market, but their tech manuals and customer assistance lines are head and shoulders above the comps...Plus, like I said, Boxxer race is a very simple fork, which is good when learning how to service forks...


Good luck...

 

[snipes287]

ya I run it at 6 on purpose...but thats only cuase I got the fork used and it didn't come with the spacers...

 

[RhinofromWA]

Originally posted by snipes287
ya I run it at 6 on purpose...but thats only cuase I got the fork used and it didn't come with the spacers...

You need the spacers to run it is 6" mode and you move them around to another part of teh fork for the 7"mode.

So my guess is that you have had the spacers all the time. Unless you are running a 98 or 99 that came at 6" only.......

You can bump your up to 7" if you want.....print the PDF file I mentioned above. It tells you where they are, and what position they should be in.

Rhino

 

[Dingus McGee]

Originally posted by jackalope

(As a side note, does anybody actually run these forks in 6 inch mode on purpose?? Just curious...)

Yeah, I know some peole who run the Race at 6"...on Hecklers for example. The Slider + was not available at the time.....

 

[snipes287]

just read it and see where they are hiding. now my question is, will I have to replace anything when I take the fork appart to get the spacers? like Ill have to replace the oil for sure...but as far as parts go? like the crush washer things are those one time use guys or what? and as far as oil goes I hear people saying 7.5 or mix 5 and 10. what brand should I get? is one better then the other? how full do I fill each leg? how do I tell how many mm of oil/space I have? anything else you can tell me would be great.

Thanks again~

 

[Jm_]

Originally posted by snipes287
AHHHH! just read it and see where they are hiding. now my question is, will I have to replace anything when I take the fork appart to get the spacers? like Ill have to replace the oil for sure...but as far as parts go? like the crush washer things are those one time use guys or what? and as far as oil goes I hear people saying 7.5 or mix 5 and 10. what brand should I get? is one better then the other? how full do I fill each leg? how do I tell how many mm of oil/space I have? anything else you can tell me would be great.

Thanks again~

I can tell you that with that many questions; you really need to read the manual. It addresses all of them. There are no "parts" that need to be replaced when you change the travel.

 

[snipes287]

Well...I did read the manual. The reason I ask about oil is because people that have actually used the fork for a while prefer it a different way and I just wanted to know what everyone else likes. Also...the manual doesn’t say how to measure the suggested 190cc's is there a measuring thing on the bottle or something? I also ask if there is anything I need to replace because the manual says to replace all this stuff and I realize that this is for doing an overhaul but I just want to make sure I have everything I need, which according to you is nothing, before I go taking it apart.

The reason people ask questions is to clarify there beliefs and to get others opinions...which is exactly what I am doing. I just need help man. Sorry if I haven’t been working on forks my whole life. This is my first time and I just want to make sure I am doing everything correctly before I go taking it apart and screwing something up. And sorry if my reply sounds kinda flameish...don't mean it that way at all.

thanks again

 

[Jm_]

Originally posted by snipes287
Also...the manual doesn’t say how to measure the suggested 190cc's

ouch...my head hurts.

and they told me my degree would never pay off!

 

[snipes287]

I’m not trying to be an ass and if I knew how to do something I would do it. Can you pleas just help me out...I’ve never done this before. Ya it may sound stupid and brain less to you but I’m sure you had sum questions the first time you did this also.

 

[binary visions]

http://www.convert-me.com will let you convert CC's to whatever measuring tool you have in the house.

 

[Jm_]

Originally posted by binary visions
http://www.convert-me.com will let you convert CC's to whatever measuring tool you have in the house.

you are sure that isn't some christian site?


Anyhow, we aren't being "Extremely helpfull" because some of this stuff you have to learn on your own, using the diagrams and manuals. That is the best way to do it. The odd little tips and stuff can be helpfull, but to change the oil you take the top caps off, all spacers and springs, and turn it upside down and cycle the oil out. Then put caps back on, turn it upside down, loosen foot nuts, break the damping rods free with a mallet, then slide the legs off. Then use snap-ring pliers to remove the damping pistons (as i recall the spacers are on the topside or something) and then slide the spacers off. It isn't rocket-science, but unless you are a super-genius, you'll need to consult the manual and not our descriptions here. That is why they wrote the thing.

Also in the manual; do not use more than 5wt oil in rebound. you can use whatever you want between 0 and 5 (ok, there is no such thing as zero...), so try whatever, 5 or 2.5, just because 2.5 works for someone doesn't mean it will work great for you, you are probably going to need to experiment a little.

 

[snipes287]

thanks man I really apreciate your help. and once again sorry if I sounded like an ass earlier just wanted to make sure I wasn't going to screw sumthing up

 

[Jm_]

Originally posted by snipes287
thanks man I really apreciate your help. and once again sorry if I sounded like an ass earlier just wanted to make sure I wasn't going to screw sumthing up

ok, but when we get the feeling that someone is asking about it and "doesn't have a clue" about what they are doing, most of us shy away from providing the kind of detail that would enable someone "without a clue" to do it, like I said, it's not rocket science, but when you are starting on a clean slate, it can be difficult and tedious to try and describe the entire process. No hard feelings, I was working on my own bike's drivetrain before, and after I finished I posted those directions.

BTW, there is a way to change the travel on 03 and later boxxers without changing the oil ,but if you haven't ever changed the oil in your boxxer, you do need to do it. To change travel without changing the oil you turn it upside down, let the oil flow down, push down on the fork a few times to help it "cycle" out of the lowers, then take of the lowers normally, and most of the oil should be in the uppers, use some rags around the stanchions to catch any excess, although the last few times that I've done this (I can't remember if it was taking the lowers off or putting them back on) the rebound leg likes to squirt oil up at me when I am taking the legs off/on. This never happened with my 99 boxxer, but the entire process could still be done, but realistically it's better in the long run to change the oil.

 

[snipes287]

ya I got the bike used so im nost sure when the guy last changed the oil and I thaught if ima be moving the spacers why not? so ima just go ahead and do it.

 

[bagtagley]

I was told that some oils cause the bottom out bumpers to soften to the point that they get sucked into the damping assembly.

Whatever the reason, I had this happen, which totally locked the fork out. RS said it was from using the wrong fork oil???