[p-spec]

I am looking into purchasing a used one,its a 07,do these have eny ishues compaired to the other years ??? I am aware that the link arm isn't carbon,and the frame is heavier...appart from that I mean structure wise ?? link wise shock wise ?

How much generaly do they go for frame naked ??

Is their enything I should be looking for ???

I used to own a mk1 v10 and I loved it,# spec wise in terms of geo it seems pretty much the same but shorter WB,I've been told they are very tall bikes the new ones ??? feels like riding a horse !?!?! I noticed the older ones look bigger clunkier that the headtube junction compaired to the new one.

I want to hear some answer from owners who use em,I might have no choice to buy used and I have spotted a pretty clean looking buy localy,just want a bit more info before I dump money into used stuff.....

 

[AzN_devil]

check the bearings and the linkages and see if they are worn..
but you have to take the rear apart to see that..

but then you can order replacements from santa cruz so it isnt really a problem..

 

[illnotsick]

I bought one a few months ago with a cracked rear swingarm. Santa cruz didn't have any new replacements, but they did have used ones for around $300. I found a guy on pinkbike who had a spare from his old V10 that he never used. I picked it up for $300.
I ended up paying $1020 for the frame & new swing arm, Pushed DHX 5, chainguide, cranks/bb, and CK headset.
I bought a Propack when I installed the new swingarm for $100. I would recommend doing that no matter what, unless it has been done withing the last year. It didn't take very long to install (you don't need all the special tools like SC & your LBS will tell you) and the bike works a lot better because of it.

 

[jackalope]

I have a 2005'ish model, that is basically the same as a 2007 except the BB shell on mine is 73 mm vs. 83 mm on the 2007. While I'm sure most people always glorify their respective DH rigs (and therefore rationlize spending a boatload of money on it), I can honestly say mine has been a great bike and I very well may ride it until the frame breaks. I have never replaced the bearings on it, and they're are ALL still smooth and squeak free (unlike my cranks & BB). However, I don't ride it very frequently, and I'm sure if I lived in Whistler for a summer it would need a lot more TLC than it does with my occasional local DH races and shuttle runs. It seems practically bomb proof, and I have never seen or heard of one breaking (the lone exception being the above mentioned incident), but that is just anecdotal evidence, so take it for what its worth. The frame certainly seems burly enough, and I would guess it probably weighs in the 11.5 lb range depending on what size it is and what shock/spring it has - so it certainly isn't the lightest bike out there. It is undeniably stiff, pedals reasonably well for a DH bike (of course, shock set up plays a signifcant part in this as well), and can absolutely devour burly rock sections. I run mine with over 40% sag, so needless to say, it likes to stay planted on the ground, which probably gives it the reputation as a "plow bike" (whatever that means). At 40% or greater sag, it really does feel appropriately low and slack, and I would estimate it to have around a 65* head angle and a BB height similar to most DH bikes not named "Sunday" or "DHR". I find it be a nice blend for most of the courses I ride, altho I do understand why some folks prefer something slacker and lower (i.e. I'm not a particularly skilled rider, but I also think the "65* Giant Glory is unrideable" e-spec comments are completley ridiculous). In regards to the shock, I would recommend using something other than a stock DHX 5.0, as mine had a difficult time preventing hard bottom outs. It does have a rather unusual leverage curve, but now that I have a Cane Creek Double Barrel on it, I actually like it: erases high speed chatter, nice mid-stroke performance, and rarely bottoms out. It took a little while to dial in the CCDB (and I still like changing it around on occassion), but it really was a critical upgrade IMO. So I would look at a CCDB, Elka, BOS, or Push'd DHX if you're really serious about racing. Because of the higher than normal leverage ratio, you made need a fairly heavy spring, altho I can get away with a 500 lb Ti sping and I weight about 190 lbs. I should also mention that there has been no measurable increased shock wear or loss of performance associated with the "short" 2.75 inch stroke length - contrary to some popular myths. Just my experience tho.

I definitely think the Pro-pack is a good call if and when you need new bearings, and FWIW, I think the sizing runs a little on the small side. I'm 5'11" and have a medium, and it can feel a little cramped if you have to pedal it for an extended distance - which usually isn't an issue for DH bikes. If you're 6' or taller, a large may be the way to go (longer WB and all).

In the end, I have ridden it on Cypress, Fromme, Seymore, & Whislter with nary a problem (well, with the exception of me lawn darting into the ground off a 10 foot drop in on Wild Cherry - which bent the steerer tube backwards, but it did not ovalize the HT), made epic slogs to reach little known DH runs in the NC mountains, won a few DH races and qualified for the US Open a couple times (Amateur of course), sailed well past countless landers to harsh flatness, bumbled down a DH track in VA at night-after drinking liquor-with no lights, and it has held up gloriously. Hell, I rode it yesterday on some jumps I built, as it still provides a level of confidence to me that even exceptional trail bikes do not.

So if you don't have to have the "latest and greatest" (which most riders do not), it is a very good bike that will most likely serve you well for a long time.

Here's my old girl...