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CCDB service manual anybody ?

Sugar_brad

Monkey
Jun 20, 2009
328
6
Anybody have the manual to fix a stuck down CCDBA? CC wants $195+ shipping
You will want to replace the air piston, backup rings, and quad ring. Possibly need to replace oil sealhead and inner damper tube. You will need proper tools and preferably a vacuum bleeder with proper fittings. Is your bike a Trunnion or clevis/plug mount by chance? Those linkage designs plus riding in cold weather side loads the shock causing air to slip from the positive hamber to negative. If you have exceeded the service interval that could be the culprit as well.
 

Erion

Chimp
May 4, 2018
2
0
Albania
I have emailed you the manual. If anyone else wants it, just PM me your email.

On top of that, it's useful to know the stock oil is Ohlins Shock Absorber Fluid #309. It has a viscosity of 13.70cSt@40. The closest off the shelf oil you can buy to this will be Silkolene Pro RSF 2.5wt (13.60cSt and an incredibly high VI of 464, which is perfect). I would not use anything other than those two products personally.

Stock pressure is 6-7 bar (87-101psi). I'd remove the reservoir endcap first (after depressurising and without compressing the shock at all) so you can measure the stock IFP depth before you start.

Hope that helps
Udi
May i have the manual please
 

Erion

Chimp
May 4, 2018
2
0
Albania
Thank you so much for the info Bizutch!

The thing is I live in Madrid, Spain, and the nearest CCDB service center is Tf-Tuned in UK. TF-Tuned has very good prices for selling, but maintenance is an abuse, 200€ for reviewing oil levels, gas pressure and o rings, plus costs of shipping Warranty is two years in Europe, so my first service will probably be out of warranty period, and I think it is worth to get the tools and trying to service the shock by myself.

The only difference compared with other brands (fox, manitou, marzo, etc) is the proprietary Ohlins tools, the rest is exactly the same.

Fyi you can get all tools and replacementes for servicing for about 250$ at
http://motorsportsspares.com/fsae.html But most of replacements (orings, oil and so on) are no needed to be got from this shop, so probably the price could be 150$ or 200$, clearly worth it.

For these reasons I think it is a good deal to service the CCDB by yourself if you are used to servicing your hardware, and have the appropriate tools, and of course the pdf that gently Udi sent me :D

I can not understand the Ohlins secrecy about servicing the CCDB. I asked them for the service manual a few times by email, and no response till now. And for instance, FOX provides you all the info but clearly says at the tech center "At your own risk" if you try to repair or service your fork or shock by your self.

Customer satisfaction is the first thing above all, and as a customer, I think when you buy something, you are entitled to get all the information about the item, including the internals of it.

CCDB shock behavior and performance are amazing, but I had no idea about these issues with servicing, and for that, I will never buy anything from this brand again. In my humble opinion as a client this is not acceptable.

In the end, we are talking about a Mtb shock, not a Space Shuttle.... :D

Thank you all for so interesting information !! If I do the service by myself, this forum shall be the first one to see the pics.

See you on the trail!

*Sorry if my English expression is not ok
May i have the pdf manual please
 

Udi

RM Chief Ornithologist
Mar 14, 2005
4,918
1,213
Of the billion people I must have emailed this manual to so far, I think you're maybe the first to come back to the thread and start returning the favour - thanks @carlos1
 

carlos1

Chimp
Nov 14, 2011
55
59
Czech Republic
Of the billion people I must have emailed this manual to so far, I think you're maybe the first to come back to the thread and start returning the favour - thanks @carlos1
No problem, glad that I can help. I have probably get it from You. So thanks again. I dont really need it anymore, but I keep the file so I can help other who may need it. Cheers
 

ChrisRobin

Turbo Monkey
Jan 30, 2002
3,403
212
Vancouver
Whew! While CC makes taking apart a DBair with a simple cheap strap wrench, I can tell you the outer tube was NOT designed to be removed from the main eyelet (with adjusters). Despite having a vice, strap wrenches, heat gun for the loctite and shaft clamps, they're not coming apart.
 

carlos1

Chimp
Nov 14, 2011
55
59
Czech Republic
Whew! While CC makes taking apart a DBair with a simple cheap strap wrench, I can tell you the outer tube was NOT designed to be removed from the main eyelet (with adjusters). Despite having a vice, strap wrenches, heat gun for the loctite and shaft clamps, they're not coming apart.
Well, do you really need to remove the outer tube?
 

ChrisRobin

Turbo Monkey
Jan 30, 2002
3,403
212
Vancouver
Well maybe I got impatient with the heat. It felt almost too hot to handle with bare hands but maybe I didn't let it heat 'long' enough.
 

carlos1

Chimp
Nov 14, 2011
55
59
Czech Republic
bare hands is like 60C, in the tech spec for Loctite 243 is, that on temperature 100C it has still 80% of its strenght, and if you can not use any tools(not your case), than you should heat it up to 25OC
 

ChrisRobin

Turbo Monkey
Jan 30, 2002
3,403
212
Vancouver
Well tried filling her up yesterday with a new bladder in the reservoir instead of the IFP. I didn't really follow the non-vacuum guide since there's a bunch of videos on youtube that show how to refill a shock with bladder style system. Weird thing is when I sealed the shock back up after getting rid of the air bubbles, there were no gaps in the stroke, no noise, and the pressure in the bladder pushed the piston back out nicely. I thought it was good. Put the air can back together and when I got the shock on the bike, all I got was a big squishy mess with little to no damping. I'm wondering if CC has their way of bleeding their shocks because of the two valves, vs a regular MX shock with only the compression valve up top. Add to that, I have a climb switch so that's something else I'll have to figure out. I'm guessing air was stuck up in the four separate adjusters as well as the climb switch. I'll have to try again but go with the way it says in the manual.
 

Sifon

Chimp
Mar 17, 2020
2
0
Hi,could you send me the manual too,i really need it because the local bikeshops told me that they can't do it due to their less knowledge aboute cane creek shocks.Thank you ,peace✌!
 

Rol97

Chimp
Feb 24, 2022
5
0
since this thread kinda came back from the dead I could use a little info. This stupid inline has been making noises like there is air in the oil.. I took it most of the way apart but I don't yet have a way the take the valve end apart. Anyway if I try to pressurize the port shown in the picture I can hear air escape. I'm assuming this it the ifp chamber. Can anyone confirm? I'd like to try to fix this thing so I can sell my foes mutz without having to find another shock for it. View attachment 127823
How much psi thank you