[urbaindk]

Hi, I just installed a Hussefelt 22-32-bash crankset and I'm trying to tune it up. When I'm in the highest gears (32 front,11 back) the chain rubs on the bash guard and tries to lift off the chainring on to the bash which causes all kinds of popping and skipping. I have front derailleur adjusted so the outside is as close as I can get to the chain with out it rubbing.

The only way to prevent rubbing on the bash ring would be to have serious rubbing on the derailleur. I don't want no stinking rubbing. What can I do? I was thinking that if I could space the bash ring out by 1-2 mm from the middle ring with some thin washers I might be OK. What do you think? Any general suggestions for tuning a 22-32-bash setup with a 9-speed cassette? The crank is going on a soul cycles titan and the FD is the new SRAM X-Gen with x.7 in the back, FYI.

Thanks D.

 

[urbaindk]

Closer inspection last night revealed that certain pins on the chain were protruding enough to allow them to catch on edge of the bash guard which cause the rubbing and jumping issues. Not all the pins stick out so far. This to me suggests sloppy tolerences in the chain's manufacturing. Looks like I need a better chain. Any suggestions for a good 9 speed chain that won't break either me or itself? The current chain is an SRAM PG-69.

Attached is a picture from the front of the bike of the chain on the middle ring and on the smallest cog in the back (not shown). You can see that the derailleur does not make contact with the chain and that the chain is rubbing slightly on the bash guard. I took the picture at a point where one of the pins was riding on the bash guard. Its hard to tell that from the picture however.

 

[binary visions]

Nothing but good things to say about the Shimano XTR chain...

 

[RhinofromWA]

Well here are some ideas....

1) space the bb to the drive side so that the angle from the 11t to 32 isn't as much. Since you are not running a big ring than the the cranks can shift out some without much negative effects.

2) you can try and space the bash ring out slightly but I can't beleive that is a real issue...unless the bash ring itself is so large that the bash ring gets in your chains way.

I have no expereince with the Husslefet cranks but my FSA Pounder cranks are working fine with a 32t middle ring and a Evil bash ring sized for a 40t(or42t?) and I haven't had an issue with mine. I would be realy suprised if your chain and its pnis are the culprit....but they could be. I have never had (or heard of) an issue like that.

Let us know what you find out.

 

[urbaindk]

Well here are some ideas....

1) space the bb to the drive side so that the angle from the 11t to 32 isn't as much. Since you are not running a big ring than the the cranks can shift out some without much negative effects.

How would I do this? Would I need a thin spacer behind the bb since it is torqued down to the bb shell on the frame? Where would I find a 1mm spacer?

 

[binary visions]

Well here are some ideas....

1) space the bb to the drive side so that the angle from the 11t to 32 isn't as much. Since you are not running a big ring than the the cranks can shift out some without much negative effects.

While I agree that there may be a way around this, the pins should not be protruding from the links on the chain. Perhaps this is simply a bad chain rather than being indicative of poor manufacturing - I have little experience with SRAM chains - but if the chainline is good right now, and there is clearly something wrong with the chain, seems like spacing out the BB or bashguard is attacking the problem from the wrong end.

After all, if your fork isn't getting small bump sensitivity, you can help this by running too-low tire pressure - but that's not the right solution. The right solution is to fix the fork.

 

[RhinofromWA]

While I agree that there may be a way around this, the pins should not be protruding from the links on the chain. Perhaps this is simply a bad chain rather than being indicative of poor manufacturing - I have little experience with SRAM chains - but if the chainline is good right now, and there is clearly something wrong with the chain, seems like spacing out the BB or bashguard is attacking the problem from the wrong end.

After all, if your fork isn't getting small bump sensitivity, you can help this by running too-low tire pressure - but that's not the right solution. The right solution is to fix the fork.

Well only jdschall has enough info (real world access to the problem) to make the call. I am jsut saying I have never heard of a chains pins protruding enough to cause a problem. I think I run SRAM chains.....I am a cheapy/good enough kind of guy and I think SRAM has fit my needs on my DH bike well with no issues. \

It could be the chain...

or it could be his chain line isn't perfect right now and it wouldn't hurt having the BB spaced out a hair. He is running the inner 2 rings so he can move the two over with not as bad of a result.

I am hoping he can consult a buddy or shop rat and make that call, all I was doing is tossing out ideas... because if his chain is "normal" than a new one won't fix the problem. I am just assuming that the chain might not be the problem but its action is a result of a poor chain line.

BTW spacing the drive train was not a bad idea :eviltongu

 

[RhinofromWA]

How would I do this? Would I need a thin spacer behind the bb since it is torqued down to the bb shell on the frame? Where would I find a 1mm spacer?

Yes a spacer would go between the drive side cup and the frame and effectivaly move the BB the distance of the spacer out to the drive side.

(for BV) "if" that turns out to be the broblem.

 

[urbaindk]

Thanks guys.

My 'real world experience' is that certain pins on the chain catch on the bash guard. When I noticed this I got out a sharpie marker and started marking the pins that were catching. Each rotation of the chain indicated that the same pins were catching each time around. So I'm pretty sure it is the chain. Closer inspection of the chain revealed poorly machined, rough rollers, and a few metal burs on the plates. It just doesn't look good to me. I'm going to try a different chain from a different manufacturer. I have one on order from Soulcycles. These guys have been great with me about advice and solutions to little problems I've had during my build. I have nothing but good things to say about these guys.

In low torque situations (ie spinning) its not real a problem. But in high torque situations (ie. stomping in a high gear to hit a gap in a short space with a lot of speed) the skipping is bad / scary.

The spacer idea might be good idea anyway as I anticipate using higher gears more often than low gears. I find that I'm in the 2x8 or 2x7 position most often so it might be nice to shift the chain line over from between 1 and 2 x 5 to 2 x 5 to help out a little. (if that make sense to anyone but me...) I'll check out the chain thing first. I really need to ride the bike a bit too to see what I think it will need.

Thanks again.

 

[ioscope]

buy my XT 9spd chain!
$12 shipped

 

[ChrisRobin]

Just space out the bashguard with chainring bolt spacers. Keep the same BB and keep the middle and granny ring where they are. It'll be a lot easier and you won't have to take everything apart, you won't change your chainline either.